Pinarello launched the Dogma XC Hardtail in the run-up to the 2023 World Championships and it faced a baptism of fire on the trails of Glentress, Scotland as Pinarello’s latest XC race bike. While Great Britain's Tom Pidcock carved out yet another historic XCO win in the men's race aboard the full-suspension Dogma XC, it was the newly debuted Dogma XC Hardtail that rose to the occasion at the 2023 World Championship super event. Piloted by Pauline Ferrand-Prévot, the hardtail proved to be a formidable tool, with the French rider winning both the Short Track and XCO Women's World Championship titles.

Pinarello developed the hardtail for Ferrand-Prévot as part of her 2024 Paris Olympic Games bid. Its early success has since been further validated by XCO gold in the Paris Olympics and a first-place finish in the short track at the European Championships as well. To understand what makes Pinarello’s Dogma XC Hardtail such a dominant race bike, I brought it back to the Scottish trails where it first claimed gold.

The Dogma namesake has traditionally been reserved for Pinarello’s flagship road bikes — uncompromising race machines designed to win grueling Grand Tour stage races like the Tour de France. By bringing the Dogma name and its legacy into the mountain bike sphere, Pinarello’s intentions in cross-country were clear: to create a bike that would dominate the biggest cross-country races.

Pinarello’s road bikes are famous for their striking aesthetics and bold asymmetric frame designs; the same design language has been translated to mountain biking with the Dogma XC HT. Toray M40J carbon has been used to create a bold asymmetric frame design featuring staggered dropped seat stays to counterbalance pedaling forces and a unique third triangle to greatly increase the stiffness of the bottom bracket area, exactly what you need when you’re making a race-winning attack on a climb or sprinting for the line.

When designing the Dogma F road bike, Pinarello put handling first, and it’s clear a lot of consideration has gone into the geometry of the Dogma XC. Most of the geometry figures are size-specific, optimizing the Dogma XC across all sizes to maintain handling performance.

My medium bike features a 450mm reach, balanced with a short and snappy 425mm chainstay length, made possible by the bridgeless asymmetric seat stay and offset seat tube. The bottom of the seat tube sits in front of the bottom bracket shell and has an effective seat angle of 69.5 degrees. The frame is designed to be run with a 100mm-travel suspension fork and settles on a 67.75-degree head angle, varying by 0.25 as you move up or down the size range.

While the off-the-shelf bikes don’t come equipped with the sponsored components used on Ferrand-Prévot’s race-winning bike, the top-tier bike I am riding features a spec that’s ready to line up and race. In place of the Suntour Axon Werx 34 fork, Pinarello has specced Fox’s 32 FACTORY SC fork with its unique reversed arch for increased stiffness and the new ultra-smooth GRIP SL damper. It features 100mm of travel and has a three-position lockout lever on the handlebar to control the suspension.

Shimano sponsors the Ineos Grenadier team, so Ferrand-Prévot’s bike was equipped with a full Shimano XTR groupset; the production bikes also use XTR brakes but pair them with an SRAM XX SL electronic T-Type drivetrain.

The boutique P1 Race Technologies wheels have been swapped out for a lightweight DT XRC 1200 SPLINE wheelset shod with Maxxis Rekon Race tires. The finishing kit comprises Pinarello’s in-house Most carbon componentry, including the integrated Talon Ultra XC cockpit, which is used on both Pidcock and Ferrand-Prévot race bikes.

Many of the iconic features, including the Salmon rock roll and the rock gap jump of the demanding XCO course, have since been removed from the Scottish venue. However, while I can’t follow their exact tire marks, several sections of the race track still exist alongside the wealth of natural and man-made trails at Glentress, many of which featured in the Marathon and XCC course, including the new Masterplan trails: a 16km network of man-made trails built in 2023. These trails are more than enough for me to put the Dogma XC HT through its paces.

My route would take me on a long loop of Glentress’s undulating Black route before descending back to the start, sampling a mixture of trails to get a good feel for the bike. My ride kicked off at a far more leisurely pace than the racers did on the big day. As I rolled out from the start area, there was no elbow-to-elbow jostling for position, and I eased myself into the first big climb.

I was determined to keep the pace up, though, as after all, race bikes are designed to be ridden fast. The low weight and aggressive riding position helped quickly dispatch the first draggy forest track before getting stuck into the rough technical singletrack switchbacks that snake up the Tweed Valley hillsides.

These climbing trails are littered with steps and slippery roots that quickly punish poor line choice and badly timed pedal strokes by killing momentum; the last thing you want when your competitors are breathing down your neck, imaginary or not.

Though I’m not the best technical climber, the Dogma’s short rear end and snappy pedalling response made short work of the tight corners, helping me keep my pace high as I powered on to the highest point of my makeshift cross-country route.

At the top of Glentress, there is a tall mast that signals the top. While there was no sign of my pretend competitors, there wasn't time to hang around. With my heart rate still in the red, I dropped straight into the first descent.

The next series of trails are part of Glentress’s original red-graded, trail-center route and were revolutionary for UK mountain biking when they opened over 20 years ago.

It starts with a shallow singletrack trail that is frustratingly tricky to navigate smoothly; flat, greasy corners are unlocked by riders who can keep their weight over the bike to maximize grip from their tires. I threaded the needle between the trees, carefully picking lines and gently modulating the brakes to control speed and avoid unsettling the tires.

As gradients increase, the pace becomes steadily faster, and although these sections were once a flow trail, the years have been unkind. Decades of Scottish weather and millions of bike tires before me have unearthed plenty of rocks. The short rear end continues to be a valuable asset for the Dogma XC HT; with the rear wheel almost between your feet descending agility is enhanced. The more I committed the faster the Dogma XC HT got; floating through the trail, gapping over rough sections, popping onto high lines, and hunting out the smooth insides of corners.

The trail spits me out into the open, and I’m back on man-made singletrack; this time it’s the freshly manicured Masterplan trails. In stark contrast to the preceding trails, my brain needs to recalibrate for the higher speeds as I pump through rollers and swing around deep supportive berms.

It’s immediately obvious why both Pidcock and Ferrand-Prévot choose to line up on the hardtail for the Short Track event; not only does the stiff chassis aid acceleration but also allows you to drive the bike through supportive corners, generating speed.

This is a trail I have ridden a lot, but never this fast. It wasn’t on just this segment that I achieved a personal record; my day tearing around on the Dogma XC HT would yield a bumper harvest of PRs, even scooping up a couple of Strava segment cups along the way.

To finish the ride, I rode the section of trail where Ferrand-Prévot had made her race-winning move. After working through the pack to second position in the first two laps, Ferrand-Prévot attacked her French compatriot Loana Lecomte on a steep climbing section. It was a purposeful move, and as I rode the same section - which you can see in this feature's lead image - I could see why she chose that moment. The Dogma XC’s responsiveness makes it an explosive tool that could turn sharp power inputs into race-defining moves, especially in the hands of a rider like Ferrand-Prévot.

Unfazed and utterly composed on the pedals, Ferrand-Prévot demonstrated her dominance, opening up a gap which she would maintain for the rest of the race and crossing the line over a minute ahead of Lecomte to secure her ninth individual world title in mountain biking.

The perfect race needs the perfect bike, and after securing both XCC and XCO wins on its first outing, there is no doubt the Dogma XC HT has proven itself to be a formidable race bike worthy of the Dogma name.

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The best waterproof MTB socks are designed to be the last line of defense when it comes to keeping your feet dry. There is nothing worse than being caught out on the trails with soaking socks and wet feet, so having some added waterproofing on your feet is essential if you ride all year round or get caught in a downpour.

So even if your choice of the best MTB shoes has succumbed to the conditions, the best-performing waterproof mountain bike socks can be that extra layer of protection to keep your feet warm and dry. 

Not everyone will be a fan of waterproof socks as they can be fiddly to care for, they don’t breathe like the best mountain bike socks for general riding and they can occasionally feel like you're wearing a bag due to the waterproof membrane inside. 

However, the options we've tested below prove that this is not always the case and our best overall are the Shower Pass Crosspoint socks, and our best budget choice is the Dexshell Ultrathin socks.

All the test socks provided superb levels of waterproofing but most unless covered at the cuff eventually let water in. To fully waterproof yourself from head to toe our best waterproof MTB pants and best waterproof MTB jackets buyer guides will have you covered and all combine to battle the elements.

Check out the bottom of this article for our guide on which features we look for when selecting a pair of waterproof mountain bike socks.

Best waterproof MTB socks

The quick list

1. Best waterproof MTB socks overall

Showers Pass is a brand with strong sustainability goals, a decent guarantee, and a humorous FAQ page. The Crosspoint Mountain socks are its thickest, with a 39% merino inner face, and a 24cm high cuff, they were the tallest, most protective feeling in this group, weighing in at 50% more than the Endura Hummvee socks. 

The Merino mix inner was nice to have, though you'd still describe them more as functional than super-warm and with the noticeable membrane layer, you’re not going to mistake them – or any of their rivals – for a pure wool sock. The foot section has a slightly tubular construction which helped to give a secure but non-constraining fit, and the M/L size was just right for a 42-43.

Performance-wise, no water got through the fabric of the sock, and I appreciated the extra length of the mid-calf cut. When not covered, dampness easily made its way down the cuff as with the other socks, and while the extra thickness was good for winter, you’d probably want one of their thinner models for better breathability as the temperatures get milder.

They’re machine washable too and they can go in the tumble dryer on a low heat. The nice light green of our test pair stained after a while but they had superb durability.

2. Best waterproof MTB socks for comfort

Scottish brand Endura is renowned for making some of the best mountain bike apparel and its Hummvee Waterproof socks are excellent. I had no problem with the Hummvee socks in terms of water coming through the body, but like the others I tested, it made its way down the cuff without too much trouble if uncovered. It’s a fully synthetic midweight sock, with no extra padding or special insulation, which makes it good for close-fitting shoes, and one that you might want to combine with a thin wool inner when the temperature drops.

With a cuff height of 20.5cm from the heel seam for an S-M size, it was fractionally shorter than the GripGrab and 3.5cm shorter than the Showers Pass sock. It was fairly soft and easy to wear, you weren’t too aware of the membrane layer, the ribbed sections kept a snug fit around the midfoot and lower leg. We experienced a slightly baggy ridge above the toes, but nothing that interfered with the fit of the shoe or the excellent comfort levels.

The Hummvee Waterproof Socks come in Black, Forest Green and Ink Blue, and are machine washable.

3. Best waterproof MTB socks for warmth

The GripGrab Merino waterproof socks delivered a brilliant cold-resisting performance. They have a 45% Merino inner which made for cozy feet on most of my test rides, although if you tend to get cold toes you might want to size up and use an additional inner sock in the coldest weather because the inner face is still pretty thin.

No decent waterproof sock these days should feel stiff or baggy and these are noticeably nice to pull on and offer the softest feel against the skin. They also have a nice natural fit around the toes, with no bagginess or a pointy bit at the end, and a medium-height 21.5cm cuff.

As with the other test socks, I had no problem with water coming in through the body of the sock, breathability was fine though obviously not as good as a normal sock, and without cover, water seeped down from the cuff fairly easily. 

The sock’s instructions say hand wash and the soft feel comes at a higher price than much of the competition.

4. Best waterproof MTB socks for breathability

I found the Sealskinz Runton socks easy to like. They’re superbly breathable, soft and quiet and unlike the other socks in this test, they have a tacky 2cm band around the inside of the cuff to provide an extra bit of water resistance.

For me, part of the Runton sock's appeal may be down to erring on the larger of two sizes. I’m a small UK9 in cycling shoes and Sealskinz’ large sock size is 9-11, so I had plenty of toe wiggling room, space to wear a thin liner if I wanted to, and most usefully of all, a high cuff length, well over halfway up my calf. The downside was a bit of bagginess around the heel – not a problem for me as I tend to wear roomy mountain bike boots, but worth bearing in mind if your shoes are snug.

Out on the trail, the cuff height and the inner band did keep water out for longer than the other socks, and in the bathroom they held out longer against repeated splashes of the shower hose, only giving in to a constant river of water – after all, once they’re saturated, the water has to go somewhere, and gravity’s going to send it footwards.

Like the best in test the Showers Pass Crosspoint socks, the Runtons are machine washable and tumble dryable on cool, which over time became an increasingly compelling reason to keep reaching for these socks.

5. Best budget waterproof MTB socks

The Dexshell Ultrathin waterproof socks are claimed to be the thinnest waterproof MTB socks on the market and set what Dexshell claims is a benchmark in waterproof socks.

On review, Guy Kesteven found that the real standout for these MTB socks was their weight (just 65g in L) and feel. The Ultrathin socks are of course almost wafer thin but still manage to slip a bamboo liner inside the Porelle waterproof membrane that Guy found made for a comfortable, natural feel and made the sock more antibacterial and less smelly too.

The material is also stretchy enough to fit like a normal sock, so they don’t interfere with shoe fit and they deliver excellent all-day riding waterproofing performance and come with a budget-friendly costing.

Read Guy's Dexshell Ultrathin waterproof socks review for all the details.

How to choose the best waterproof MTB socks

Meet the testers

The best cargo bib shorts are designed to take on the demands of gravel cycling, which can involve long hours on the saddle on rough terrain and a need to be self-sufficiant.

A comfortable pair of cargo bib shorts are the foundation of any gravel bike clothing wardrobe and have become my go-to for all gravel, bikepacking, road, and cross-country mountain biking. 

The best cargo bib shorts combine the fit, breathability, and chamois pad of road bib shorts with lots of extra storage to stash snacks and any accessories that you may need on your gravel travels.  

Of course, you could opt for a pair of the best mountain bike shorts, but they're not as breathable or aero as the best cargo bib shorts. Gravel bib shorts share many similarities with road bike bib shorts but usually have a more endurance focused chamois with a little more padding and the added cargo storage.

Our expert reviewers have been putting the best cargo bib shorts to the test and I have rounded up our top picks below to help you narrow down the plethora of choices and find the shorts that work best for your needs. 

Best cargo bib shorts

1. Best overall

Attaquer is a premium cycling brand from Australia and its All Day clothing line is designed for riders looking to go far and fast. The All Day Cargo bib shorts have become one of my favorite cargo shorts for several reasons.

Firstly the tailoring and fit are second to none, I found sizing to be well-considered and the chamois pad ensured I was comfortable in the saddle whether I was out for a quick hour or riding from sun up to sun down. Leg length and shoulder straps never needed to be adjusted mid-ride and the material compression provides support without excess pressure.

Attaquer hasn't done anything revolutionary with the storage options but offers plenty of capacity for everything I need to carry on a gravel ride. The cargo leg pockets offer plenty of elasticity and I could securely store a range of items in them while riding. There are two reasonably sized pockets on the lower back for additional storage too.

The All Day Cargo bibs may be expensive but they are hard to fault which is why I awarded them five stars in my Attaquer All Day Cargo bib short review.    

2. Best for performance

Velocio's Utility cargo bibs are my favorite cargo bib shorts when I'm heading out for a gravel ride of the fast and furious kind. The highly compressive performance fit may feel a bit restrictive at first but once on the bike the bib shorts offer loads of muscle support and the leg hems, shoulder straps, and chamois are locked in place no matter how hard you're riding. The Elastic Interface chamois Velocio specced has a medium thickness with multi-density layers and I found it to be very comfortable no matter how long I am in the saddle.

Velocio has always been a leader when it comes to offering a wide range of sizes and both the women's and men's Utility bib shorts come in eight different sizes to cater to a wider spectrum of riders. 

The luxurious material is lightweight and breathable but still feels durable enough to the rigors of gravel riding and my review samples are still looking brand new after over a year of regular use.

The laser-cut leg pockets are stealthily bonded to the thighs giving a clean finish and offering secure storage for slimline bits and pieces. There is a single medium pocket for additional items on the rear of the bibs.   

Want to read more about why these are some of my favorite cargo bib shorts, check out my Velocio Utility cargo bib short review.

3. Best for bikepacking

Rapha's Cargo bib shorts are part of its Explore range so it's no surprise that the Cargo bibs excels on multi-day long-distance adventures. I have chosen these cargo bibs for several big trips including the Pennine Rally, a 500km bikepacking event in the UK.

Rapha has been designing bib shorts for the road for decades and the well-judged close but relaxed fit means they are super comfortable when rides are measured in days rather than hours. The size-specific chamois is the same one used in its Brevet bib shorts, which has a well-proven track record for providing comfort during long rides. Rapha has finished the Cargo bibs with plenty of reflective detailing to help enhance visibility when riding into the night. 

The pockets are massive and offer a huge amount of useful storage. The mesh used on the thighs is very stretchy and gives plenty of scope for loading them up with all manner of unusual-shaped snacks. The rear pockets offer plenty of additional storage and hold items close to the body to stop things from jumping around while riding. 

Construction and durability have been impressive and my Rapha Cargo bibs have easily handled plenty of scratchy bushes and general bikepacking and XC rough and tumble. Rapha offers a repair service if bought directly from its site, after a huge off that tore my shorts a little I sent my shorts away and Rapha patched them up.

For more, check out our full review of the Rapha Cargo bib shorts.

4. Best for style

We all like to look good on the bike and Maap's Alt_Road Cargo bib shorts are my favorites when I want to look my best on a gravel ride. The fashion-forward Aussie brand Maap is one of the leaders when it comes to creating trendy cycling kits with tasteful color schemes and contrasting detailing. 

To look great clothing needs to fit well too and I found Maap's shorts to offer a close fit with a decent amount of compression to add muscle support and a smooth finish. Medium short leg length is spot-on for me and the elasticated hem stays locked in place while riding.  I have done a ton of long-distance riding in these and the 3D Thermo molded chamois developed with Elastic Interface has been comfortable throughout. 

Unlike other brands, Maap has opted for a single mesh pocket on the left thigh and a zipped valuables pocket on the right. I personally prefer two mesh pockets although I can see the advantages of having a secure pocket for stashing valuable items without worrying about them escaping. The rear pockets are well-sized and have an angled entry making it easier to get your hand in while riding.

Looking for an alternative to the black and olive green gravel short status quo, read our Maap Alt_Road Cargo bib short review.

5. Best budget cargo bibs

Endura has a background of producing performance kits and affordable prices, particularly its Pro SL bib shorts which have been a stand-out budget pair of bib shorts on the road. Endura has used that knowledge to develop the GV500 Reiver bib shorts for gravel riding.

They share the same performance fit with high levels of lumber support, compression, and Power shoulder straps as the Pro SL bibs and Endura has fitted its own ‘Continuously Variable Profile’ (CVP) 600 Series with integrated gel inserts to help reduce vibrations. The GV500 adds double-layer side leg panels to help reduce crash damage and gravel rash in case your tires come unstuck in a corner.

The double layer offers plenty of support to the two thigh pockets and are large enough to store a phone and some bars. The rear pockets have an unusual layout, rather than a traditional lineup of two or three pockets which mimics a jersey the jerset has two mid and two small mesh pockets on either side of the spine. It's designed to align with the large center pocket on the Reiver jersey, although it limits rear storage if you use it with a top with no pockets.

Find out more about the GV500 bibshorts, and the rest of the GV500 range, in our Endura GV500 kit review.

6. Best for chamois comfort

7Mesh takes a different approach to its RK2 bib shorts with the design focusing on the chamois pad and ensuring it stays in place when riding. The 7Mesh Performance Force pad is mounted to a floating layer within the shorts so it doesn't move no matter how much you shuffle around the saddle. This bib construction works too requiring zero readjustment while riding and not creating any uneven pressure on the overall fit of the shorts.

The materials have a premium finish to them and feature neat raw-cut hems for a smooth transition between thigh and short let. Silicone grippers keep them in place and overall the shorts RK2 shorts offer a nice amount of compression.  

7Mesh has needed to use a lot of paneling and seams to achieve this chamois support and I found the shorts tended to wrinkle too, making them appear less aesthetically refined next to other premium options. This was entirely visual though and caused no discomfort while riding.

The raw-cut leg pockets are almost invisible when empty but, with some smart folding and sewing, they can expand to hold a lot of cargo securely if required. Bad news for those who like to ride in pocketless t-shirts or power pocket users as there are no pockets on the rear of the bibs.

To find out more, be sure to read our 7Mesh RK2 Cargo bib short. 

Also tested

A close second when it comes to budget cargo bib shorts, Rapha's Core Cargo shares a lot of the great features of the premium Explore Cargo bibs in a more affordable package. 

Although Rapha has used more paneling and thicker material, the ’classic fit’ is still snug and supportive without feeling restrictive. The Classic chamois pad is also size-specific to ensure a better fit across the wide size range. The Core model features the same pocket layout as the premium Cargo shorts, providing equally ample and secure storage on the move. 

While I think the Endura GV500 cargo shorts have the edge over Core Cargo's in terms of compressive fit, breathability, and durability, the Core Cargo's less restrictive tailoring and considerably larger cargo capacity make them a much better option for bikepacking and long gravel riding.

Check out our review of the Rapha Core Cargo if these bib shorts are ticking your boxes.

The Convoy Cargo bibs from Spatzwear are a great option for gravel racers, as their bulk/capacity balance favors speed over stowage. Power pocket users will find cargo capacity tight although the three pockets on offer are enough to carry all the gels and bar essentials on a fast-paced ride.

As you would expect from a performance pair of bib shorts, the multi-panel construction and tenacious extended gripper hem hold everything in place. The fabric is a bit heavier which is perfect for cooler days, although those in hot climates will want to look for a short that uses thinner materials

The chamois is synthetic, 3D-ribbed, and perforated, and is up there with other premium chamois' that we've tried. Perforations ensure drying and wicking properties are good enough to leave you feeling fresh and comfortable over long, hot, or wet rides. 

For the brand's first foray into cargo bib shorts, Spatz did a fine job with these. Read our full review of the Spatzwear Convoy Cargo bib shorts.

UYN isn't a brand that's all that known in the cycling sphere however its Adventour Cargo bib shorts have some unique features that make them stand out, although ultimately the lack of compression affects the overall fit of the bib shorts which means they don't make the top list.

While the structure affected the overall comfort and support, some features still make them worth a consideration. The lightweight material, combined with the Flow Tunnel material rear panel, makes them very breathable in hot weather.

There are no rear pockets, presumably to reduce sweat build-up around the lower back, instead, UYN has equipped the shorts with a unique double-layer cargo pocket on each leg. These mesh pockets work really well giving versatility and secure storage for loads of different items.

While the bibs didn't work for me, if you're looking for a forgiving cargo bib short that's breathable and practical these could still be an option. Find out more in our review of the UYN Adventour Cargo bib short.

How to choose the best gravel bike shorts

How we test the best cargo bib shorts

All the cargo bib shorts we've tested here have been put through many hours of riding in many different conditions. From quick rides to multi-day adventures, off-road and on-road, and frequently stuffing pockets to maximum capacity along the way. Bib short comfort is very subjective so we have tried to be as fair and open about the performance, fit, materials, and the chamois pad as possible.

Meet the testers

The future of where we ride

Let’s start this conversation by talking about the absolutely insane situation surrounding where we ride our bikes offroad here in the UK. Considering we’re talking about a multi-billion pound global business the fact that it’s increasingly based on illegal land use is crazy. 

Sure, there are privately built centres like Bike Park Wales which is going strong, but the news about the potential closure of facilities at public trail centres like Coed-y-Brenin is likely to be the first rumble of a serious storm. And it’s been brewing for a while because the lesson the original Welsh trail centers taught us - that it’s no use building new trails unless you commit to ongoing maintenance - still hasn’t been learnt. 

It's not just trail centers either, doing the recce ride for a new gravel/MTB route for Cycling UK last week showed that a lot of legally useable bike routes are far from useable in a practical sense. Either because they’ve been blown apart by storms, buried under skin ripping nettles and brambles or barricaded by farmers who know it’ll be years before the local council gets round to sending them a letter asking them to stop. 

The backlog to clear all of the outstanding rights of way issues before a ‘setting it all in stone’ deadline is absolutely vast too. It's no wonder that a lot of us are riding footpaths, deer tracks, or whatever ‘cheeky trails’ we can find/build to keep things interesting and keep the sport progressing. Even if that does a lot of reputational damage for our sport with landowners and other countryside users.

That all feeds a background of local authorities and national stakeholders like parks and forestry often being fundamentally hostile to bikers and massively short-sighted in terms of the economic gains we’ve proven we can bring to areas like the Tweed Valley in Scotland and Wales too. That’s the hard shoulder that groups like the SRAM-funded UK Trails Project or the volunteer/crowd-funded UK MTB Trail Alliance and a bunch of others are trying to relax. But even with shining examples like DMBINS to follow they also show an achingly patient process. 

If there’s one thing MTBers have proven time and again, it’s that we’re not only very impatient but have been an anarchic, insolent, "well f**k em, we’ll ride there anyway" bunch since the very birth of the sport. This is cool and all, but when you see how well-organized, professional, and determined the hiking and horse riding reps are when it comes to getting their (right of) way it’s no wonder we’re struggling.

The future of racing

Late last month it was the long-running and much-loved northern Enduro series PMBA announcing that the UCI British Enduro Champs they'd finally negotiated into existence after ten years would be their last race. Speaking to Kev Duckworth – the dynamo behind a decade of event and trail creation – it's due to several factors. He's lost the use of some venues for various reasons, overall event running costs are around 30% up compared to 2019, and Forestry England's fees are now 20% of the ticket price. Mainly it's been a big turndown in competitor numbers and those entries coming a lot later which makes it much harder to forward plan for efficient logistics. The much loved Naughty Northumbrian event has also been cancelled this year and Western Bike Events have reduced their number of races too.

Last week the fantastic flagship of racing, trail creation, and whole area revitalising that was the Tweedlove organisation also announced that the next couple of events would be its last. A group of riders and volunteers who were a big part of making Glentress, Golfie, and Innerleithen a top global riding and racing destination, finally sick of scraping by as things have got worse rather than better for 15 years. To quote TweedLove's founder Neil Dalgleish "bike industry sponsorship is a fraction of what it used to be, and public sector support for events like ours is generally sporadic and minimal – despite the number of visitors we attract to this part of Scotland" There’s a lot of rightful resentment from Neil and others about how grassroots racing - particularly enduro - has been exploited and then taken out of reach and out of touch with real riders by ‘official’ organisations like EWS, EDR and UCI. 

The future of bike buying

I’ve made numerous pleas to support the small brands and stand up for the ethics, ingenuity, and innovation that make our sport great in this column over the years and I’ll always wave that flag damn hard. 

If anything we should be grateful that bike buying is actually way behind the retail curve of pretty much anything else when it comes to independents – shops and brands – still managing to survive in the shadow of mega brands. 

With DJI, Honda, Audi, and even Ford coming into the mountain bike space recently, and Bosch, Yamaha, and Porsche already well established, even the biggest bike brands are now looking like the small indy kids. Which is, in fact, what they actually were when they were camper van sale-funded import businesses, touring bike builders in red farm barns, or selling spares from a trailer at bike races.

The future of bikes

Obviously, I love all of the new tech I get to play with and the future of bikes is probably the least concerning thing about riding right now. Sure I think e-bikes - like electric cars - are being massively mis-sold in terms of hiding very obvious reliability, maintenance cost, built-in obsolescence, minimal resale, and potential safety/insurance/access issues. 

But then everyone from the media to shops and brands has had as big a boost in revenue as riders have in easy climb and extra run stoke. So, of course, the industry is going to carry on trying to get everyone hooked on assisted pedaling because addicts are always the easiest to sell to.

Apart from that though, conventional bikes are now so totally sorted in terms of control, survivability, and how well even a 'meh' bike rides. As a result the most compelling ‘must have’ most brands can tempt us with is the ability to hide snacks and spares inside our frames.  They've even tried to convince us to ride road bikes on singletrack so we go back to breaking things and bursting tires like we used to!

The future is ours, but it’s not free

And here’s where I cleverly tie everything up - the answer to all the issues facing mountain biking is that too many of us are expecting too much for ‘free’.

We complain we don’t have anywhere to ride and that facilities are closing but then we park on roadsides rather than in paid car parks. And yes I know we pay taxes to support Forestry who have a mandated obligation to provide recreational facilities, but does dodging an £8 ticket to ride your £8000 bike really make you the new Robin Hood? 

We ride trails to death and blow their cover on Strava or Instagram, but we rarely help maintain them or go to council meetings to sit alongside the horse riders and hikers and defend their existence. We complain about the rising cost of bikes but we ignore deliberately durable innovations like Shimano LinkGlide in favor of wireless wizardry.

Commenters condemn the bike prices of some brands compared to others without stopping to think that the more expensive brands are likely the ones still supporting the media they’re consuming for free and the trail crews and advocacy efforts that create the trails they’re riding for free.

And don’t think for a minute I’m excusing some brands and media who use volunteer created trails for bike launches, photoshoots, etc. either without contributing to local trail group funds. They’re just another, big business version of the same ‘expecting stuff for free’ problem. Pulling maximum short term profit out rather than actually 'investing' in sustainable growth.

And I fully appreciate that ‘times are hard’ and sometimes saving money is a case of survival. But building a better future for mountain biking doesn’t have to cost you anything. Just swap a ride for a bit of bush-whacking or puddle-draining at your local riding spot. Or give some time to your local advocacy, trail building, or race organizing group so you have trails to ride and events to do. 

If you enjoy the content on Bike Perfect, tell your mates to come and check it out, or do your shopping through an affiliate link - it won't cost you any more and it might even save you money. As cheesy as the cliche now sounds, a thumbs up, like, follow, subscribe, or positive comment below media you’ve enjoyed does make a difference to creators and it’ll also make your algorithm more accurate. 

If you do spend some cash, spend it with brands that support those same groups and initiatives. And if you are thinking of doing an event then get your entry in early so the organisers can plan properly and pay the advance costs. Otherwise you might find the event you wanted to enter has joined the ever growing cancelled list.

Because at the end of the day, if we’ve got no good trails or events to ride, and nothing entertaining/interesting to consume when we’re not riding, then it doesn’t matter how good your bike is or how great a deal it was does it?

Shimano SPD pedals have been around forever and various models always feature in our best SPD pedal guide. The top-of-the-range Shimano XTR pedal was part of Tom Pidcock's XC gold-winning setup and they also appeared in my hottest Olympic XCO MTB kit feature. 

Having used the budget Shimano M520 pedal regularly I wanted to know how much they differed from the race-ready XTR pedals, so I decided to do a direct comparison to find out.

Before I get into the details the obvious difference is the cost. The top-of-the-range Shimano XTR PD-M9100 pedals (to give them their official title) come priced accordingly at $150 / £129 / €164. The wallet-friendly Shimano PD-M520 pedal is priced at $50 / £45 / €55. 

These are the RRP prices but by hunting around on Amazon you can occasionally find better deals on both.

1. Build quality and look

On first look both the pedals have a similar appearance, with the familiar double-sided clip-in mechanism, fixed cleat housing plate and spring-tensioned binding plates looking almost identical. The obvious difference is the color of the springs – the XTR gets nice shiny silver springs instead of the black ones on the budget model. The plates are also similar, with the XTR having a slightly duller finish. The hex key tension adjuster is also the same on both. Both pedals have a forged aluminum body, chromoly spindles and sealed bearings.

This is where the similarity ends though, as the XTR's build quality and overall better looks come into their own. Its wider, sleeker appearance gives it a very classy look. It measures 98.6mm in width compared to the 91.7mm of the M520. This is mostly due to the wider shoe contact areas designed for more stability. They are also rounded and polished to deliver better mud clearance. 

The budget model has smaller shoe contact areas and a slightly rounded axle but it's far more chunky. The XTR has a slimmer axle and bigger mud-shedding holes between the axle and mechanism. The M520 uses a plastic lock ring rather than the slick polished metal version on the XTR but both use run-on cup and cone bearings, which make both easy to clean and re-grease.

Branding on Shimano's top-of-the-range pedal is subtle, with just the XTR logo on the axle being the main visual clue to it being the brand's premium model. The big Shimano lettering that's on the M520 which for other groupset owners could be slightly annoying but is aesthetic you don't miss.

Build quality and look winner

The XTR takes this easily – although both pedals have a similar appearance you can't escape the quality feel, look and build of the XTR.

2. Weight

You'd be right to assume the XTR pedals are the lightest of the two sets on test and they have a noticeably slimmer appearance and a lower stack height of 15.1mm with the M520 being 17.6mm. The XTR weighs in at 156g with the M520 tipping the scales at 187g. This weight is for a single pedal unused and fresh out of the box. It's not a massive difference, just 31g or 62g for a pair, which means you're paying around $1.60 or £1.35 for every gram saved. So if you're not an XC racer and weight isn't your main concern then the M520 is a cost-effective option.

Weight winner

The XTR gets the nod on weight but it's close with the slimmer profile and build quality shedding the weight on the XTR. The M520 for those not fussed about the weight is the obvious way to go.

3. Durability

I've ridden various models in the Shimano SPD pedal range for years – firstly on mountain bikes, more recently while riding on the best gravel bikes and for my occasional dabble into cyclocross racing too. Across the range they are, in my opinion, almost indestructible and they keep spinning easily and continue to deliver the familiar clunk when clipping in and out, standing up to years of all-weather abuse, rock strikes, and crashes.

This is the beauty of the budget pedals – they will take an absolute hammering, perform brilliantly, and are easily serviceable. However, should you manage to damage them beyond repair (good job), buying another pair, at this price, doesn't hit your wallet. It may be frowned upon by Greta Thunberg, but Shimano has a sustainability and recycling policy that claims all its packaging for all its products is eco-friendly, but no mention of recycling the actual plastic and metals in the pedals.

The XTR version performs equally well and will take a beating just as happily. However, at three times the cost you won't be so keen to replace them so quickly. They also look so nice that I want them to retain their looks for as long as possible. One minor moan is that the cleat quickly started to wear through the highly polished contact patch on the XTR, which didn't affect the performance but for the price was slightly irritating. Additionally the supplied cleats on both, which are identical last well too.

Durability winner

The M520 gets this one, purely down to cost vs durability. The XTR soaks up everything you can throw at it equally well but the budget version makes the most sense for everyday riders.

4. Performance

I fitted one pedal of each model to the same bike for a direct ride comparison, adjusted both pedals to the same tension and rode in the Specialized S-Works Recon Laced shoe. The familiar Shimano clip and release action are similar on both, but the XTR is noticeably quieter and smoother, with a more definitive click that gives a more secure and locked-in feel.

The stability on both felt remarkably similar, and the difference in stack height or width had no noticeable effect. I did notice that the rounded shoe contact patch on the XTR, designed to let mud escape, coped better with the muddy conditions I rode in. 

In a full winter cyclocross race, I'd want the mud-clearing abilities of the XTR on my side. The XTR with its lighter weight would come into play in a race situation too and could make all the difference.

I can't really fault the M520s for performance though, they do everything perfectly well and you can't get away from the price, they’re a dependable performer that just keeps spinning and clipping in and out with ease.

Performance winner

It's a draw – for me, both pedals offer superb performance for their respective cost.

5. Overall

The good news is both pedals are excellent and make it into our best SPD pedals guide, ticking the boxes for performance and durability with ease. Nobody will ever be disappointed riding on either of these Shimano pedals or any of the other models in the range. 

For this head-to-head test, it has to go to the Shimano XTR pedal even though it's very close – closer than I expected considering the difference in the price.

Overall winner

XTR still has what it takes to deliver everything you'd want in an SPD pedal.

Well this is embarrassing. After some eye-opening coaching this spring with former 4X MTB World Champion Katy Curd, I’ve been trying to work out what’s stopped me from translating my MTB knowledge into fast-flowing, trail-taming action in the past, and what will help me in the future.

Turns out I actually gave myself the answer three years ago in this article where I asked coaches why riders crash: Just knowing about a skill won’t give you that skill.

The fact I’d forgotten about the article and its pearls of wisdom probably explains a lot about my slow progress. And if Katy and her colleague Sam Begg are right, I’m not the only one.

The biggest problems Katy and Sam’s coaching sessions revealed to me were: (a) I was only half-learning skills, and (b) I was misunderstanding when to use them.

On top of that, as Olly Morris, co-owner of Pro Ride MTB Coaching and coach for World Cup DH team MS Mondraker says, being realistic helps: “Mastering a skill might take a morning or it might take months. Be relaxed about your personality type and don’t beat yourself up.”

Let’s have a look at those two pitfalls I discovered and how you can avoid them…

Problem 1: Only half-learning the skill

Solution 1: Make sure you understand the skill

In an early body-position lesson on the pump track, one of my misunderstandings was just moving my body up and down on the bike without any forward shove. So I ended up like a pogo stick gradually running out of bounce, instead of using the rollers and berms to give the bike vital momentum around the track. 

Instead of trying to do the same wrong thing harder, I should’ve checked – on a trusted YouTube channel or with a coach – that I’d understood the action in the first place.

Solution 2: Make sure you can feel the skill in action 

I sometimes found myself asking the coach, ‘Was that better?’, a pretty good clue that I’d only developed a vague idea of a skill. When something comes together, like properly angling the front of the bike downwards to come off a drop onto a sloped landing, it feels really smooth. But early on, while I’d notice that something felt better, I couldn’t tell why that was. Repeating the thing dozens of times lets you get a clear idea of cause and effect.

Videoing yourself really helps to show you what went right (or wrong). One of my favorite sessions was at a skills area on a quiet day, just repeating the same drop again and again with the phone propped on a rock, recording. Playing it back frame by frame afterward showed me so much about the difference that body position and timing of an arm push made 

Solution 3: Get the skill into muscle memory

Once a move started to click, like bike position over a small drop, it was like time slowed down a bit. Instead of a worried flurry of activity, where you’d try to concentrate on five things at once and go over the drop as a slightly panicked passenger, you’d find that you could start to think about one thing deliberately, like where your landing point was going to be, and then the other things would take care of themselves.

That really did feel like magic. It was also like that where the coach had given me three instructions, like chest down, push down with the arms and then use a heel swing to hasten the back of the bike downwards off the drop. At first, I was always thinking so hard about one of the things that the moment would pass for the others. But eventually one or two would take care of themselves, and you could focus on the third – and also notice it making a difference.

When whole sequences of moves go into muscle memory, then you only have to plan the broad moves as you head down a trail – the micromovements take care of themselves. I guess this is all familiar to anyone who plays a musical instrument or does a martial art, or any number of skilled activities. Through endless practice, your brain masters a whole series of subroutines that it can call upon.

Sam explained that mastering these subroutines makes you loads calmer when you need to adapt to the unexpected – say coming around a corner into a drop that’s bigger than you thought, where you suddenly need more of an arm pushout to make a safe landing.

Problem 2: misunderstanding when to use the skill

There are a couple of skills areas at the Forest of Dean. One has a series of small drops with gently sloped landings. The other has bigger drops on a steeper slope. 

Last time I was there I saw near misses and one wild crash by riders who just had one technique for drops – to push out and get as much air as they could – rather than deciding when to push downwards with their arms to land sooner. Sounds obvious but on a steeper slope, your 2ft drop quickly becomes a 5ft one if you’re sailing out to space.

I also realised that the skills I’d learned in my first coaching session were just the beginnings of a toolkit, rather than cut and paste solutions for every scenario. And also that some rules were there to be unlearnt. Outer foot down wasn’t needed on big grippy berms, for instance, in fact it just slowed progress between them. Arm movement on drops didn’t need to be either push out or push down, it could be halfway between (although you had to have felt the difference between push out and push down before you could judge the halfway version)

Ben Cathro also makes the good point that your ace cornering skills (hips, outer foot, bike lean) don’t count for anything if you haven’t made the right decision about the line you're taking.

There’s also the related problem that bad technique works til it doesn’t, but that’s for another day. (See: using speed on small drops to compensate for technique, then applying that to big drops.)

What you can do about it

An article like this won’t solve all your problems any more than one single skill will, but hopefully one or two of the lightbulb moments I’ve had might make a difference to you too. I’ll leave you with the three main ones:

1. Check you understand the skill

Either revisit the stuff you learned with a coach in your next session with them, before you move on to new stuff, or see how what you think you know chimes with what reputable online coaches say. (Just be mindful that there’s sometimes more than one way to approach a technique, and you probably don’t want to mix half of one approach with half of another.) If the technique doesn’t feel smooth, or you can’t visualize it, or you can’t really feel it kicking in, that may be a sign that you haven’t nailed the skill in your mind.

2. Video it…

… then play it back frame by frame – you’ll be amazed at the differences you pick up, and the links between cause and effect. If you really like to nerd out, copy and paste a grab of each frame into a sequence, and compare different runs of the same feature.

3. Practice ’til it’s automatic

For me, this is doing the same thing again and again on an unchallenging version of the feature, until I’m sure that I’ve nailed it. It can take ages – and sometimes it feels like you’re getting worse for a while – but there’s nothing more satisfying than being on the trail or in a race and realizing you’ve just cleared something without thinking about it.

Tom Pidcock became only the second rider in the history of the Olympic games to win back-to-back XCO mountain bike titles. Pidcock matched Julien Absalon's unique double that the French rider had achieved back in 2004 and 2008. Pidcock had to work hard to defend his title, overcoming an early puncture and fighting back to take the gold medal in a nail-biting thriller at the Elancourt Hill XCO track.

I had an exclusive chat with Cal Wyllie – Pidcock's Team GB MTB Race Mechanic in Paris. Wyllie talked me over some of the details of the Pinarello Dogma XC. That also included giving me insight into the work and behind-the-scenes tweaks and performance-enhancing adjustments that helped make Pidcock the very best he could be on race day.

Pinarello Dogma XC

The Pinarello Dogma XC is constructed using Toray M40J carbon fiber and is claimed to weigh 1,749g without the shock in a Small. That's the weight of the production model though, Wyllie remained tight-lipped over the exact weight of the actual gold medal-winning bike. For the Olympic games, Pidcock's bike featured a special custom paint job, with the sides of the head tube featuring a Team GB Union Jack design.

Wyllie told me that Pidcock always has the full-suspension and hardtail versions of the Dogma and will decide which is best on the build-up to race day. For the earlier Paris Test Event, Pidcock had gone with the lighter and stiffer hardtail and after that race and pre-race practice laps of the Elancourt Hill course, decided that the full-sus Dogma suited him better. Wyllie added this decision was due to the anticipated rapid pace of the men's event and although the course wasn't massively technical, some of the big features made the full-suspension a no-brainer.

The suspension on Pidcock's Dogma XC is SR Suntour’s Tact electronic system, which controls the low-speed compression on the 100mm Axon 34 Werx Boost EQ fork. The Suntour Tact system uses one sensor on the crown of the fork to detect gradient, weightlessness, and vibrations then alters the suspension to suit. The rear shock, also from Suntour, is the brand's Edge TT model and Tom went with just a meager 90mm of rear travel.

The Dogma XC rolls on Princeton CarbonWorks Singularis M30 wheels which use weight-saving spokes that are made out of string, yes string. Wyllie told me these spokes (made by US brand Bern) feature a specific weave that makes them extremely strong and super lightweight. Quoted on the Bern website as "12 times the strength-to-weight ratio of steel and they float on water", with the only metal being the spoke nipples.

The added benefit for Pidcock, Wyllie said is that the Bern PolyLight spokes deliver more traction to the wheel through the spokes flex which means less rider effort. Interestingly, the Bern PolyLight spokes can be dyed, but after the Bern team dropped in on the Team GB pit they went with white, as it matched the logo on the Singularis M30 wheels. The M30s have a 30mm internal width and are claimed to weigh just 419g per wheel. The wheelset starts at a whopping $1,800 and tops out at $2,800. 

Pidcock used Shimano's XTR groupset for the drivetrain, braking and pedals. Marginal gains are crucial to the Dogma's setup with every piece of excess rubber like cable guides and brake lever hoses all being removed pre-race by the Team GB mechanics.

Vertical's Helium dropper post is claimed to be, and Wyllie confirmed, one of the lightest around. Pidcock went with 90mm of travel and it's paired with a Prologo Scratch NDR, specifically designed for cross-country and marathon MTB racing.

Pidcock's tire of choice is the Continental Race King in a 29 x 2.4" size. But that's not the end of the story as these tires are a special unreleased rubber compound. Wyllie and his colleagues had to spend hours trimming the 100s of little rubber castings you get on brand-new tires from numerous sets, purely because Tom doesn't like the noise they make. Now that is marginal gains.

Pinarello's in-house component specialists, Most, developed an integrated one-piece carbon cockpit. It features an in-built mount on the stem for Pidcock's Garmin computer and is finished with ESI foam grips. The grips are personalized for Pidcock with the pack of cards logo that's found on his signature series sunglasses and the top tube of the Dogma too. The cards are purely good luck things for Tom – which seems to work.

Finally, one of the most interesting pieces of information was the use of hairspray. Tom wanted his Gold medal-winning bike to remain in the exact condition that it was in after crossing the line, which meant retaining its coating of Elancourt Hill dust. The way to do that, Wyllie informed me, is by spraying the bike with hairspray. More widely known is that it's also a guaranteed way to stop foam MTB grips from moving too. Though a Team GB mechanic's top tip is to coat the bars in hairspray and leave overnight – which then makes for a super grippy bond.

If you've been inspired by watching the Olympic XCO racing in Paris and fancy trying cross-country mountain bike racing for yourself, the good news is that it needn't cost a fortune. We've reviewed plenty of top-performing budget mountain bike gear that costs a fraction of the cost of the XCO bikes and kit being ridden at the Paris Olympics.

Below you'll find our pick of the best kit that doesn't cost the earth – everything from XC bikes to mountain bike helmets, shoes, sunglasses and more. For the best deals on all the gear we've picked out here, check out the bottom of this article.

Budget XC bikes

Specialized Chisel

The Specialized Chisel has been around for many years for good reason. It is purpose-built to tackle modern cross-country trails and race courses at speed. The latest model shares many of the same design features as the Specialized Epic MTB range that has already helped Haley Batten win the silver medal in the Women's XCO at the Paris Olympic Games.

Specialized has just launched the latest version with the Chisel FS – an aluminum full-suspension cross-country bike. In our Specialized Chisel FS review, we noted that the frame is based on the generations of development behind the Specialized Epic and Epic Evo frames which gives this budget-friendly XC bike a serious development pedigree.

The Chisel FS comes specced with a SRAM NX Eagle 1x12 speed drivetrain, Level T hydraulic disc brakes, RockShox Recon Silver RL fork, X-Fusion Pro-02 shock, and 27mm alloy wheels wrapped with Specialized tires. The Chisel FS has an RRP of $2,600 / £2,000. 

The hardtail version of the Chisel is even better value for money. In his article praising the Chisel, our technical editor Guy Kesteven said: "I've tested thousands of bikes and the Chisel has to be the best example of budget performance and sublime ride quality."

With the new full-suspension Chisel being launched, there are plenty of discounted hardtail models to be had. The best deal we've found is the Specialized Chisel which is currently discounted by 40% at Tredz to £1,199, and comes with great spec including a RockShox Judy Silver fork and a SRAM NX Eagle 1x12 speed drivetrain. In the US, we've found a top deal on the same model with a saving of $450, which takes the price to $1,349,99 at Specialized.com.

Budget XC helmets

Lazer Strade KinetiCore 

Lazer helmets have a strong pedigree in the Olympics and Tom Pidcock won his Tokyo XCO title wearing a Lazer Genesis helmet. For his Paris Olympic title defence, Pidcock wore the Lazer Z1 – the brand's latest top-of-the-range helmet featuring KinetiCore. KinetiCore is Lazer's answer to MIPS safety tech and that technology has filtered down to the Lazer Strade KinetiCore which makes it a superb budget offering in the best mountain bike helmet market.

The Strade also features a load of features found in the higher-end Lazer helmets including the 360 retention with an ergonomic belt for fine-tuning the ultimate fit, and the brand's Venturi ventilation system, which Lazer claims will draw in cool air and expel hot air through the rear of the helmet for maximum cooling performance.

Priced at just $109.99 / £89.99 it's a top-drawer helmet ready for cross-country mountain bike racing.

Specialized Propero III

The Specialized S-Works Evade 3 helmet will be seen on the heads of the Specialized Factory Racing team riders during the Olympic games. The brand's Propero III is a race-inspired helmet that is similar to both the S-Works Evade 3 and the S-Works Prevail helmets. It shares a few features found in those and represents tremendous value for a budget XC helmet.

Safety features include the MIPS safety system and a composite matrix construction means it has improved internal reinforcement. This also allows for larger vents and greater cooling performance. The HairPort FSL II fit system has four height positions which are micro-adjustable to deliver a custom fit.

The Specialized Propero III is available in three color choices, currently priced at $64.99 / £55 / €55.

Budget XC pedals

Shimano PD-M520 SPD

Shimano’s SPD pedals in their various models are renowned as one of the best mountain bike pedals ever made. I've been riding Shimano SPD pedals forever and the XTR models are my favourite version. They'll be seen on many of the best XC mountain bikes at the Olympics, but these top-tier XC pedals have lent a lot of their looks and performance to the superb and budget-friendly PD-M520 version.

At around $45 / £45 / €45 on Amazon, which includes cleats, the PD-M520 gives you most of the design features of its more expensive siblings with just a few cost-saving sacrifices. They weigh a bit more at 378g (per pair), with the XTR version as an example weighing 312g (per pair). The body is a little fatter, with a thicker axle, and it uses plastic in places. However, they are a brilliant pedal that has stood up to years of all-weather abuse, rock strikes, and crashes.

Budget XC shoes

Shimano XC1

We highlighted the Shimano XC9 S-Phyre as the drool-worthy XC shoe you'll see being worn by many mountain bike riders at the Paris Olympics. The Shimano XC1 has recently seen an update and the entry-level cross-country clipless shoe is aimed at new riders.

Despite the budget price point, Shimano promises competitive performance and technology from the premium S-Phyre mountain bike shoe range, with increased comfort and a better power transfer. The XC1 shoe takes the same sole construction and lug pattern from other models in the Shimano range and combines it with a Dynalast upper and velcro closure.

The XC1 is priced at $100 / £77.99.

Specialized Recon 1.0

If you want plenty of cross-country bang for your buck then the Specialized Recon 1.0 has to be one of the best budget mountain bike shoes you can get. It's also a superbly versatile shoe that can be used for not only mountain biking, but also gravel riding, and bikepacking. 

The Recon 1.0 comes in as entry-level in the Specialized Recon line-up but has plenty going for it, sharing some features like the Slipnot rubber compound found in the more expensive S-Works Recon and the new Recon ADV that are aimed directly at mountain and gravel bike racing. 

The Recon 1.0 is currently priced at $49.99 / £79.99.

Budget XC sunglasses

The pro riders racing in the Olympic XC races will be tied into their sponsor's sunglasses, some of the best mountain bike sunglasses available. Tom Pidcock and Pauline Ferrand-Prévot wore their very own Signature Series editions on their way to gold medal glory in Paris, but they come with fairly big price tags.

For us mortals, the choice of eyewear is huge and varied and pricing depends on what we prefer, with the look of the glasses being equally as important as the performance they deliver. 

A pair of shades that come at a bargain price are the Tifosi Sledge MTB sunglasses. In his Tifosi Sledge review, BikePerfect editor, Rich Owen, noted that in terms of price, the Sledge sunglasses were hard to beat. They looked good, were tough and comfortable, and he highly recommended the glasses as a superb budget option, with an RRP of $79.95 / £69.99.

There is a ton of choice though from some of the world's leading brands like Oakley, 100% and Koo to name a few, and it's well worth hunting around as many brands will have sales on.

Our price checker below will show you the best deal prices on all the products featured here.

XC MTB deals

The 2024 Paris Olympic Games are here and the best mountain bikers on the planet are straight into action this weekend with the XCO (Cross-Country Olympic) races scheduled for July 28th and 29th. Tom Pidock and Jolanda Neff will defend their gold medal titles, but there will be plenty of other riders looking for their shot. It's also the opportunity for mountain bike brands and sponsors to have their products win a gold medal too.

I've been looking around at some of the best XC mountain bike products that will be in action over the weekend, and are likely to feature in the Men's and Women's races. If you fancy channeling your inner Tom Pidock or Jolanda Neff, below are the money-is-no-object products you'll want to consider from bikes to mountain bike helmets, shoes, sunglasses and more...

If you want to watch the races, our how to watch live Olympic cross-country MTB racing article has all the information you need. It also has the riders we're tipping for gold medal success. And if you fancy checking out some more affordable kit, see our article on the best budget XC gear.

Olympic XC bikes

Pinarello Dogma XC

Tom Pidcock is the defending Olympic XCO champion, and also the current cross-country world champion, so his bike is a good starting point for the best XC racing bike. Pidcock won his Olympic title racing an unbranded BMC Fourstroke bike because his bike sponsor Pinarello didn't make an MTB at the time.

With input from Pidcock and Pauline Ferrand-Prévot, Pinarello designed the Dogma XC – which is officially the fastest XCO race bike in the world, having won two XCO world titles in Scotland last August.

The Dogma XC is now available for us mere mortals with a whopping price tag of $13,000 / £12,000 / €13,500. Our ultra-experienced test editor Guy Kesteven flew out to Italy earlier this year to find out what the Dogma was all about. Guy found that while the Dogma XC felt extremely stiff, climbed like a dream, delivered maximum power transfer and was rapid on rolling trails, he found the ride position sketchy on descents and the geometry made for some nervy riding on technical sections.

With the launch of the Dogma XC, Pinarello achieved its aim for the bike – world titles and a machine designed exactly how Pidcock and Prévot wanted. You'll have to have serious riding skills and a big wallet if you want to line up at a local race on this bike though.

Specialized S-Works Epic 8

Specialized like Pinarello claims its new Epic 8 is the "fastest XC race bike in the world", but with two world titles in the bag, the Dogma seems to have the more legit claims for the title. The two bikes will go head to head this weekend and an Olympic gold medal mighty just be around the corner for the Epic, because the number one XCO rider in Men's Elite, Victor Koretzky, the winner of the Test Event at the Elancourt Hill track will be on board the S-Works Epic 8.

Other strong candidates throwing their legs over the Epic 8 are Team USA riders Christopher Blevins and Haley Batten who are strongly fancied for podium places along with Laura Stigger, a former world champion.

The S-Works Epic 8 is priced at $14,500 / £12,000 / €14,500, which is pretty much the same price point as the Dogma. Guy Kesteven gave the bike top marks when he reviewed the Epic, saying the next-level technology, frame, geometry, and suspension make it an exceptional XC race bike.

Olympic XC helmets

Kask Elemento

The Kask Elemento is a top-of-the-range XC helmet from the Italian helmet manufacturers. It's got World Championship-winning form too – worn by Pauline Ferrand-Prévot to victory in last year's XCO World Championships in Glentress, Scotland.

The Elemento is packed with cutting-edge 3D-printed technology and has advanced safety construction for MTB, gravel, and road riding. Multipod internal padding is Kask's answer to a MIPS system, developed using their own Rotational Impact WG11 Testing. It's constructed using a composite technopolymer called Fluid Carbon 12 which makes it lightweight at 309g (large). This material is also claimed to be more resistant to stress than standard plastics. Kask also adds that the Fluid Carbon 12 outer shell is capable of absorbing more impact energy and will distribute that force evenly across the helmet.

The Kask Elemento is priced at $400 / £335 / €375.

Lazer Z1 KinetiCore

Tom Pidcock will be racing in the Lazer Z1 KinetiCore helmet in Paris. The Z1 is the brand's top-of-the-range helmet and integrates Lazer's patented KinetiCore protection technology, engineered to be lightweight (220g), with excellent ventilation, and provide high levels of safety.

KinetiCore is Lazer's answer to the MIPS safety system and as a result, the Z1 gets a 5-Star Virginia Tech protection rating. Strategically placed vents, inclined bridges and a floating headband make the Z1, Lazer claims, the best MTB helmet in class for ventilation.

The Lazer Z1 is priced at $280 / £230.

Specialized S-Works Evade 3

The Specialized S-Works Evade 3 helmet has been around for a while now and Specialized say its third-generation version is the best yet. You'll see it being worn by loads of the best XC riders during the Olympic games and is a World Cup regular worn by the Specialized Factory Racing team riders.

The Evade 3 now has superb cooling credentials and the improved airflow system doesn't compromise aerodynamic performance. So it's lightweight at just 300g (large), comfortable and suitable in loads of different riding conditions.

Safety features include the MIPS Air Node safety system. Air Node is MIPS' lightest and most ventilation-focused safety solution to date. There is also dual-density EPS foam which further protects during any impacts, and the polycarbonate shell wrap outer creates a striking finish and enhances durability. 

The RRP for the Specialized S-Works Evade 3 is $300 / £275 / €330.

Olympic XC pedals

Shimano XTR

When it comes to XC pedals, Shimano’s XTR pedals are still one of the best mountain bike pedals you can get. They've been around forever and I've been riding Shimano SPD pedals for years, the XTR models are the top-tier XC pedals and are last summer's XCO World Championship-winning pedals ridden by Tom Pidcock.

The latest version is sleeker, lower, and lighter (312g), and has improved mud clearance, but at the heart of it is still the crisp buttery-smooth engagement and race-ready performance you'd expect from XTR, and are priced at $179.99 / £139.99.

There are many other MTB pedals from other brands out there, like the Hope Union RC which might be arguably better too. But what you get with the XTR, is a pedal so good that it's tough to look past it for versatility and ease of use. As our tester, Sean Fishpool said in the review, "It’s hard to imagine anyone ever regretting buying these pedals". 

Olympic XC MTB shoes

Shimano XC9 S-Phyre

Shimano XC9 S-Phyre is designed specifically for cross-country racing and will be the shoe of choice for many of the XCO riders competing at the Paris Olympics. They come with a premium price tag but you get a shoe that delivers comfort and performance. Shimano says the XC9 is "engineered to fit" and its one-piece upper provides enhanced instep rigidity and a claimed glove-like fit. Dual Boa Li2 dials feature a two-way micro-adjustability for fine-tuning fit.

The Ultread compound makes the sole lightweight, durable and grippy and minimizes weight at just 295 grams per shoe. The stiffness rating of 12 is equivalent to Shimano's performance road shoes so the XC9 delivers maximum power transfer and makes them a top shoe chosen by some of the best XCO riders. Premium performance comes priced at $450 / £319.

Olympic XC sunglasses

Most of the pro riders racing in the XCO will be tied into the sponsor's product when it comes to the eyewear they wear. For us normals, the choice of the best mountain bike sunglasses is huge and varied and comes down to personal preference with the look of the shades being almost as important as the performance they deliver.

Sunglasses brand Sungod is the eyewear sponsor for the Ineos Grenadier's team and has recently launched Signature Series editions for Tom Pidcock and Pauline Ferrand-Prévot and both riders have won their world titles wearing Sungods. I've used a few versions of Sungods in the past and they are highly customizable MTB glasses that come with a lifetime guarantee. There is a ton of choice though from some of the world's leading brands like Oakley and its Sutro range and Kask's sunglasses partner Koo and its Spectro and Demos.

Olympic XC tires

The best XC tires prioritize speed over puncture protection and deliver plenty of grip that suits the conditions they are designed for. Recently launched and aimed specifically at a shot at an Olympic gold medal is the Hutchison Python Race tire. It's been developed in collaboration with the Decathlon Ford Racing Team, and these new tires are claimed to be super lightweight, offer enhanced puncture protection, and are ready for modern XC racing.

Decathlon Ford Racing requested the lightest and fastest possible tire and the Python Race is said to be a class-leading 600g tire built entirely for speed and is the fastest rolling tire in Hutchinson's MTB range.

Other tires worthy of consideration are the Maxxis Aspen and the Specialized S-Works Fast Trak, both highly capable XC tires with plenty of proven race-winning performance.

I ended my last 'Price of everything, value of nothing' opinion column with the paragraph: “All I can say for sure is that whether it’s the temptation of the latest hyped bike or the biggest online discount, be very sure the product is actually suitable for what you want and something that you actually need. Or to paraphrase it another way ‘whatever the price, the best value will often come from spending nothing at all’.” What I didn’t realize is that the opportunity to prove it would come round so quickly or more timely after several days of wall-to-wall Amazon Prime Day promotion all over the internet.

Prime day was a while ago for this bike

While I’m normally the one dishing out test bikes to my weekly Thursday Night Fight Club pack for second opinions, a gravel-themed meeting with bike pack specialists, Restrap, yesterday afternoon, took me close to the start point of the ride but I was on a gravel bike. So as an amusing role reversal, I asked Ryan – one of the other hyaenas and ride host for the evening – if I could borrow a bike. The choice was between a brand new Canyon Spectral and a very ‘well-loved’ Santa Cruz Tallboy 3 from about seven years ago. And I thought ‘do you know what’ I loved that bike back in the day and it’ll be really interesting to see how it compares to the latest ‘lightweight trail / downcountry’ bikes I’ve been testing recently.

To be honest it wasn’t really a fair comparison. While Santa Cruz’s free bearing replacements mean the VPP suspension still works as intended, the kinematic has more anti-squat than the Criminal Justice Bill. The Fox shock had a mid-stroke ‘catch’ that definitely suggested a service should have been done a while ago. The Fox 34 fork up front had that kind of grinding sensation you get from eating sandwiches on a windy beach too. The brakes were a mismatch of SRAM Code and Guide RE, with the lever of the latter so worn it looks like someone has got bored halfway through polishing it raw. The scarred SRAM cranks turning the 11-speed gear set round could certainly tell some stories and the DT Swiss XM1700 rear rim had a serious ‘sort of saved by pliers’ ding in it. 

Or was it?

Looking at the baseline bike though, it’s aged OK. With 120mm of fork stroke and 110mm of rear travel, a reach of 450mm on a large and 68 degree head angle though, it’s not far off the current Santa Cruz Blur TR (120 / 115mm travel, 457mm reach, 67 degree head angle). The old top tube shock layout, lack of internal storage, shorter frame and generally less burly construction means it’s a lot lighter than the current Tallboy 5 (for the record: 130 / 120mm travel, 475mm reach, 65.5 degree head angle) too.

Despite being hardwired to start obsessing about the design and performance minutae of every bike I ride the second I sit on it, riding the retro Tallboy was a real surprise too. Sure the bite point of the brakes was slightly different and the Guide RE was its usually unsubtle self, but they were both plenty powerful. Despite its deep scars, the transmission was absolutely flawless, and to be honest, it was great to be back on a smaller 10-42 rear cassette without massive jumps between ratios at the top end. The way the suspension sagged into its travel (until the notch) when you weren’t on the power, meant the effective head angle felt more stable than the geometry charts would have you believe too. 

Most importantly, it still felt really responsive and alive so when I stomped power into the light, tight frame, it properly delivered. The very visceral connection between pedal and trail, combined with a lot of rearward axle movement meant I was cleaning a lot of technical rocky, rooty power climb challenges that others were dabbing out on. Including Ben on his Tallboy 5, Dickon on his Blur TR, and most gratifyingly, Ryan on his Spectral. 

Granted, the more skittish, shorter geometry and less-than-at-their-best shock and fork got pretty lairy on descents trying to keep the heavier, smoother bikes in sight. But when things turned up or tightened up again, guess which idiot was T-boning them in turns, or on stutter steps like some massively irritating younger sibling?

The one thing that did feel outdated

In fact, the only thing that was really noticeable as a downside compared to the latest bikes was the seat angle. Not only is it three and a half degrees slacker than the latest Tallboy, but it also slopes back straight from in front of the bottom bracket. That means the higher you run the saddle, the more pronounced its effect on rider position is, so it did feel a bit like I was riding like an Allsop Softride at times (yes, I am that old). Trying to keep the front wheel interested in gripping on climbs or flat turns while in the saddle was definitely a case of rapid relearning too. As long as I stood up though, the position was OK, if a little short, and for the suitably old skool woodsy dog walking singletrack rather than bermed park riding we were doing, it was fine. Actually thinking about it, I was even worse than normal through the one section of berms we did ride. And without trying to dodge the blame, the deep rearward compression of the suspension and shorter, twitchier geo was definitely part of that. Otherwise, the only thing really freaking me out was the creak and crack coming from the lightweight but long-serving stem and bar on steeper descents of sudden rock blunts. 

So what’s the take home here?

Well hot on the heels of realising that even the most basic bike can still deliver a huge slice of joy to a journey, last night’s ride was a reminder that really good mountain bikes from a few years ago can still keep up with the latest machines in some situations. Sure, some aspects of the ride made me appreciate recent geometry and suspension developments more, but there certainly wasn’t enough difference in performance to upset the usual pecking order by more than a couple of places depending whether we were going up or down. And that to be honest, is how most of us measure the value of our mountain biking investments, whether it’s nose to tail on a trail or scrolling Strava stats after a ride.

It’s another comparison that throws up a lot of questions regarding value too. Once the terror stem is replaced and Ryan has serviced his shocks, he’ll have a really sorted bike for way less than buying something new. Even something I’d regard as high value like Specialized’s Chisel FS.

But to be clear this isn’t going to be the case in all situations. The Tallboy 3 was a brilliant bike not just an average one back in 2017, and it was priced at a premium to cover aspects like the lifetime bearing warranty that’s kept it going so well. The lifetime frame fault warranty means if it does ever die, Ryan will be hopping straight onto the latest equivalent for free.

If I’d borrowed a bike that was behind the curve seven years ago, or came at a ‘killer value’ price that hid cheap unwarrantied bearings and a now expired frame guarantee, the result would likely have been very different. I’d be very surprised if a 2017 e-MTB that’s been ridden as hard as Ryan’s Tallboy 3 would be remotely comparable to the latest bikes. If it was still rideable at all, I’m sure it would have sucked up a serious amount of cash in new motors, batteries, brake pads and drivetrain refreshes to keep it alive. But then built-in obsolescence and the true cost of e-MTB ownership is another opinion column I’ve been brewing for a while, so you’ll have to keep your eyes peeled for that another time.

When I was growing up, “Knows the price of everything and t’value of nothing” was a damning comment on folk who only ever considered cost, not quality or other benefits that might make paying more worth it in the long run. It was generally muttered by women with the face and belligerent stance of an English Bulldog, or an old lad with a flat cap pulled down so low it was an early agricultural form of ‘no face, no case’. However Google tells me it was also used by renowned writer, Oscar Wilde, so I think we can assume it translated right across society. It definitely seems to be something we’ve lost sight of in recent decades though and right now it’s directly affecting my work as a bike tester. 

So here are some personal thoughts on what price and value actually mean right now and how I’m trying to reconcile the current monetary madness in my reviews.

What does something even ‘cost’ now?

From a testing point of view, RRP has always been the baseline I – and every other tester I know – has based ‘value’ scores and judgments on. We might hint that certain products could often be found cheaper if you shopped around, and that’s translated into automated ‘best deals’ inserts on web reviews. However, the verdict has always been based on what the manufacturer wanted you to pay for it. That was a consistent baseline and it also leveled the playing field for all sorts of sellers, rather than making small local shops look like crooks for not automatically price-matching online discounters.

And it’s worked fine for me for over twenty-five years of testing. Sure, some end-of-line clearance stock would end up on sale as new models were introduced, but it never amounted to much volume and it was generally spread out over the year. Winter kit being sold off in spring, summer kit in fall/autumn, bikes turning over as model years changed, etc. Even outlets with a reputation for slashing prices generally just rooted through the bins at the back of distributors like bears, rather than going on a full-scale rampage on RRP.

What’s changed in the past couple of years though is that there’s been an almost constant cycle of huge discounts across deep product ranges – as well as ‘closing down’ sales from brands and distributors felled by Covid, Specialized started the bargain ball rolling early with 50 percent off bike prices, and then parts and accessories. That made way for bikes running SRAM’s new UDH / T-Type Transmission and they’ve continued as new models like Epic and Stumpjumper make existing stock obsolete. Loads of other brands have followed suit too. Most have tried to maintain some kind of control and brand value by rippling discounts across different models sequentially like Santa Cruz or having a short-term sale like Trek. Others like Kona have just dumped the whole family into the bargain bin, although to be fair their ‘two for one’ offer was a genius move in terms of shifting stock.

We're not out of the woods yet

As we came into 2024, the vibe of the industry was very much ‘survive to ’25’ but optimists at trade shows were saying the problem would soon be solved. Halfway through the year though, it’s not looking great. I’ve not seen any actual evidence of the supposed burying or burning of millions of pounds worth of accessories and clothing by ‘insert whichever brand you have beef with here’, but maybe there is no smoke without fire. In the space of the last month, one brand director told me a rival firm still had a million overstocked frames to sell. Another that ‘bike manufacturer X’ had 400 containers worth of stock they couldn’t even unload into their warehouses to sell on because they were so full. And even if these are just rumors with inflated numbers, the truth is there’s still a huge amount of surplus stock sat about that retailers, distributors, and manufacturers are struggling to sell even at well below cost price. And that’s a real problem because whether it’s still in a factory, a warehouse or even a shop shelf, if stock isn’t moving it’s costing you money, so better to be rid for a big loss now rather than lose even more money over time by hoping prices might bounce back.

As I said last week, this creates a huge problem in terms of launching new stuff because you’re dropping fresh product into a market where prices have completely collapsed. But then if you don’t produce new stuff you can’t ever break the cycle, and while you might have the investment and cash reserves to siege it out, the vendors and manufacturers you rely on might not. So while I know some brands – big and small – are sitting on product they probably designed / ordered years ago, others are pushing on full steam ahead. And again that’s super unsettling if you’re a small manufacturer that’s trying to preserve prices on existing stock until they’re not being undercut everywhere by cutting costs to an absolute minimum. Yet at the same time hearing your frame manufacturer is flat out again creating bikes for a rival brand, who are flying media around the world to launches like it’s the glory days of the late 1990s all over again. Or as I found out when I dropped into an independent UK brand, they’ve had to order some frames just to have something to hang surplus component orders they couldn’t cancel on. Plunging them into a discount market they really don’t want to be in and where their charismatically esoteric performance and above-and-beyond customer service doesn’t seem to engage as well either. 

So what is good value?

But when I come back from a lavish bike launch, pick up a small band special, or have to write a news piece based on a brief PDF of thin details or an online meeting, how do I assess the price of a new product? Even if there isn’t a similar predecessor at a knockdown price, there’ll be something close enough that makes a mockery of retail to real price comparison. Let’s use the newly revealed Specialized Chisel FS as an example. It’s got a high-tech alloy frame that delivers an excellent ride and while the kit value isn’t amazing, the overall package is very good and relatively unique if you compare it like-for-like on RRP. At the time it launched though you could still buy (and probably still can) find Specialized’s own Epic 7 Evo carbon bike that the Chisel FS was based on for around $1,000 / £1,000 more. Which sounds a lot, but the Epic 7 Evo has one of the lightest carbon frames, so you’re saving a kilo in comparative frame weight straight away. Add better kit and you’re probably two kilos ahead on complete build – which is huge when it comes to XC performance.

Can’t afford an Epic Evo but want a more capable trail bike that’s still lighter and cheaper? I’m currently testing a GT Sensor ST Pro with Select+ RockShox suspension and mostly SRAM GX on a carbon frame it shares with the equally sorted GT Sensor. Like that bike, it’d be good value at it’s £4,000 RRP, but it’s currently being sold at between £2,400 and £2,000 depending where you look. And as GT has gone through a big restructuring and is sensibly waiting out the current situation while clearing old stock, it’s never going to be sold at RRP again. So in a way, the new ‘RRP’ IS half-price.

And to be honest I don’t have an answer for that. If I start reviewing on the basis of the lowest cost you can find something, then that would be absolute chaos in terms of a comparative baseline. So I've no real alternative but to stick to the proven format or scoring based on RRP.

Equally, I can tell you that the biking world will be a much duller place without people pushing forward new tech like fancy alloy construction methods, alternative steel frames or high-pivot bikes that are as addictive as hard drugs. Or that above and beyond customer service, advocacy investment, warranties worth having, etc should all be factored into the ‘price of everything, value of nothing’ equation. 

However, what I can’t ignore is that people’s finances have never been under more pressure than in the current cost of living crisis. And like the bike industry situation, we can’t expect that to get sorted out anytime soon either. So while I can legitimately say that the Chisel FS is a good value bike in normal terms, the current context is very far from normal and what you do with your wallet is entirely your own business.

All I can say for sure is that whether it’s the temptation of the latest hyped bike or the biggest online discount, be very sure the product is actually suitable for what you want and something that you actually need. Or to paraphrase it another way, ‘whatever the price, the best value will often come from spending nothing at all’.

Two of the biggest mountain bike brands in the world – Specialized and Merida – launched new bikes this week. But while the radicalized Big Trail seems to have gone down really well, it’s fair to say that Specialized’s new Stumpjumper has definitely provoked mixed reactions in comments. In contrast, another bike launch by a company known for cameras and drones has totally dominated news coverage. Meanwhile, there are other launches incoming next week, one of which is being massively underplayed considering the size of the brand and the importance of this particular bike in their range. 

So what are the challenges with trying to launch a new bike right now, how are designers, brand managers and marketing teams handling that, and how do I do my job as a reporter?

The bargain bin backdrop

The biggest issue with launching a bike now is that there are still a lot (we’re talking thousands for many brands and rumoured million plus for some) of previous generation bikes waiting in warehouses despite websites and shops trying to clear them with discounts of up to 50 percent off. If you’re really unlucky – like Specialized with their Stumpjumper Evo and the Epic Evo – those bikes are already some of the best you can buy. If you look closely, the bikes being offered at 30 to 40 percent off are often only available in very limited size and color options. However, the headline price comparisons between a carbon bike with premium kit like an Epic Evo and an alloy frame with budget bits like the Chisel FS are easy to make in comments sections or anywhere else you want to be an online smart arse. 

Cutting back to move forward

You can pick any number of reasons why there are so many unsold bikes sitting gathering dust and debt. Bat flu, Ukrainian war, African pirates, not enough shipping containers are all in the mix for sure. But mainly it’s the whiplash sting of over-ordering to match the ridiculous panic buying triggered by lockdown’s one night stand with cycling being mistaken for a lasting relationship. And while we can all tut about the industry being greedy, anyone who asked their local bike shop for something and then ordered one online is as much to blame as anyone else in the chain.

That means savvy companies are drastically trying to slim down their bike ranges as much as possible. Trek announced they were culling their bike range by 40 percent in March and the launch of the Stumpjumper 15 this week saw Specialized reducing the frames needed to cover the XC to trail range by 50 percent. That’s because the new Stumpjumper is designed to cover the riding range of the previous Stumpjumper and the Stumpjumper Evo with just one frame and a new highly adjustable ‘Genie’ shock. This follows the same range consolidating approach that saw them building the Epic 8 race bike and Epic 8 Evo downcountry bike from the same base frameset, rather than using totally separate designs. That means Specialized has gone from four different molds in a full range of sizes to cover the Epic and Stumpjumper family to just two. And frankly, that’s genius, not least because nobody really saw that as an issue on the Epic 8, mainly because the Epic 8 replaced the super popular Epic 7 Evo and the Epic 8 Evo was a natural progression towards radder riding.

The issue Spesh has been hit with Stumpjumper 15 is that Stumpjumper Evo was a huge success for them with a whole shelf of ‘bike of the year’ and ‘best in test’ awards. Not only is that a hard bike to follow, especially when you also need to overlap with a shorter travel bike, but it also has a very passionate – and it turns out – vocal ownership. Those folks have lost no time in saying how the shorter fork, ‘proprietary shock’, and lack of wired gearing provision means a ‘hard no’ from them in terms of considering upgrading to the Stumpjumper at some point.

New stuff is risky

That’s because the thing you always need to remember about many humans is that a lot of our baseline neural wiring is still a primal, simian survival setup. That means whether it’s a spotty cat with pointy teeth a few million years ago, or the comment section under a YouTube video yesterday, a common reaction when presented with new things is to distrust and potentially attack it.

Considering how frustrating that can feel just from the point of view of reporting on it, I can only imagine how much eye-rolling it causes engineers and brand managers. Actually, I don’t need to imagine it, I know enough of them well enough to be a useful ‘vent’ ear to know exactly how exasperating having the new thing you slaved over and have actual science to prove is better, being damned by an armchair ‘engineer’ and his online disciples who clearly doesn’t understand how it works and definitely hasn’t ridden it. In fact, the most recent comment I got on my Tech Talk video of the Stumpjumper 15 was someone saying how the version of SWAT they have on their Evo was better than the new one. OK, so you like yours and you’ve had no problem with water getting in even when jet washing. But the new one is lighter because it fits directly into the frame, and is not a frame within a frame. The catch is smoother and more repairable. It’s flush fit and has a better seal. It’s quantifiably, measurably better in several ways

Want another example? Another journalist sent me an Instagram post with a cartoon clearly about the Genie shock with the caption “I think I’ll try to make a more reasoned post about a recent bike launch, but for now here’s a meme…..” And yeah it was funny, and made a very fair point. A whole new shock is a risky move, even if it’s largely based around common parts and can easily be replaced with a conventional shock if necessary plus Specialized – like Trek and nearly every other brand who’s gone that route – have had some nightmares with proprietary shocks in the past. But where would mountain bikes be if we hadn’t moved on from touring bike gears and motorbike brake levers running cyclo cross brakes which is what the original Stumpjumper had 43 years ago?

While people have been roasting the Genie’s lamp pretty hard rather than rubbing it, that’s nothing to the ‘kill it with fire’ reaction that the wireless-only design language of the new Stumpjumper has been greeted with. TBH, I thought it was a really neat idea that makes the bike look a lot tidier without having to resort to the dreaded headset-routed cable solution. They’ve also gone to the trouble of asking for a more affordable S-1000 AXS T-Type group for their Comp models so I hadn’t even flagged it up as a negative on my first review draft. But then maybe that’s a reflection that I’m getting as out of touch as design teams who don’t have to pay for their parts and effectively have AXS on draught. Either way, you’re going to have to get used to frames that only work with radio-controlled ratios as I know there are at least a couple more high-profile bikes coming soon that’ll only have piping for a dropper post and rear brake hose. Or to put it another way, when I asked their distributor if he’d seen how much heat the Stumpy was getting, they replied “Yeah, about that….”

Trail bikes are topped out

One of the major reasons brands are moving towards what are essentially ‘sideshow’ changes on bikes is because all the major performance points in terms of geometry and suspension are pretty much plateau'd now. I can’t think of any major brands where their current bikes aren’t very well sorted in terms of how they ride for their intended category. Most of them have already added some sort of internal storage hatch, or at least some sort of nod towards extra storage. UDH hangers are genuinely universal now too.

Moving towards modern geometry isn’t a guaranteed win either, as I found out when I slagged off Pinarello’s Dogma XC bike and Mondraker’s Chrono Carbon downcountry bike only to be told by many people that what I’d branded throwback handling sounded ideal to them. That means I’m genuinely interested to see if Merida combining ‘daily driver’ utility features like rack and kickstand mounts with a 64-degree head angle on their latest Big Trail bike is a Big Win or a Big Fail.

Launch or leak?

All of which makes it less surprising that one of the other big brands announced the relaunch of one of their biggest selling bikes with the following email. “We are stoked to launch new *********** next week. We decided not to ask you to sit through a recorded presentation this year. You will find everything you need in the media kit:” Unless they’re lying or I’ve missed out on the launch rides, the brand doesn't even have media bikes available yet either, so for once I won’t be dropping a review on here or swamping online media with my usual blend of shouting about angles while dodging trees. For context, this is from a brand that used to fly journalists and dealers all round the world to ride camps so large they made the D–Day invasion look like a village fair. And having looked at that media kit, they’ve not made many changes to their bike either. There’s certainly no proprietary shock in play and the build kits feature both SRAM and Shimano options, so I’m guessing there’s some holes in the frames to put wires through. 

Or were Specialized right to fly a crew of us out to Vancouver Island for just two days of riding? Was it a combination of jet lag, incredible trails, and the surprise double whammy of both Specialized founder Mike Sinyard and Santa Cruz bikes founder Rob Roskopp sharing trails and branded merch that shocked me into overlooking their outrageous analog abandonment? Or maybe, just maybe, the bike really is very, very good and people should perhaps reserve judgment until they’ve actually ridden it themselves. But then, we live in a media world where nothing creates more traction than hate and anger and the old adage that there’s no such thing as bad publicity has never rung truer. 

And on that note, I guess we’ll just have to see how the world reacts to next week’s more low-key leak than actual launch and try to work out whether that’s a better way to bring out a bike these days than the full-on 50th birthday party that Specialized threw.

My wife Sarah always names her vehicles and her bike is called Beryl. In relative terms, Beryl is pretty fancy. She’s got a rear rack, a dynamo, a kickstand that’s too short to work. Most importantly for the eventual silliness we get up to, she’s got twist-grip gears and big springs under her saddle. My bike is from the same B’Twin step-through roadster gene pool, but very much the Cinderella of the situation. No gears, an insistently intrusive lump of a saddle seized at an awkward angle and a dynamo light with no dynamo to power it. For the sake of this feature, we’ll call her Belinda, but I may have called her other names a couple of times when wearing board shorts while riding over rough Spanish tracks turned my testicles into castanets.

Within seconds of our host Cal (the Genghis Calm of the fantastic Spanish, surf-yurt camp we were holidaying at this week) handing over the two squeaky, rattly sisters and pointing us in the direction of the beach, I was in love. Gliding along, bolt upright, swept-back bars light in my hands as the front wheel skimmed over hard packs and sand traps. Communicated either by a cacophony of jangling bells and loose fenders, or the quiet potentially deadly snake hiss of sand.

Remembering the simple joy of jockeying a generally too-large single gear. Getting the power in early on even the slightest rise, so the struggle started later and wasn’t quite as crippling on the knees. Shifting weight to turn or skim rough sections just as I would on an enduro test bike, but from the comically upright but similar centred ‘Mary Poppins’ position of a rusty Decathlon shopping bike.

Over the week we were away, we pushed those two bikes up the steps past the hire car that stood gathering dust and set off on various adventures. Normally clattering happily down to the beach. Where we’d regularly fly past cars crawling terrified down the cratered track only to find there wasnt any parking left near the beach anyway. And yes, I did have an extra smile as I locked the B-Twin beauties up to the beachside rail like a cowboy hitches horses. Because I knew those traumatized drivers would see them half an hour later after finally finding somewhere to abandon their precious car in a bush.

Besting cars wasn’t the only sport to be had either. To the dismay of my knees, Sarah decided to exploit her gears and full-suspension saddle in trying to set a new time back up from the beach every day. Eventually spurring Beryl to a 15-minute gallop after her first 25-minute trot. We worked out the best lines through the fresh gravel, how to pump the whoops near the beach, and dared ourselves to take the blind ‘send’ faster each time. We said “Ola” to the deep brown cows and the rare Ibis who couldn’t be bothered to move for the two idiots on bikes. We ran over each other's hats if they blew off, we jousted with beach brollies. Basically, we behaved like a pair of kids and we laughed our arses off in the process.

While the beach and back was our daily commute, the B’Twin twins became our default choice for exploring too. We rode to the neighboring village for coffee. To the supermarket in the other direction to get ham and wine. We pedaled down the bike path and then pushed through sand dunes to Trafalgar Bay (yes, the one of Napoleonic sea battle fame). We even created our own Trafalgar soundtrack as we creaked and strained our our heavy, tall geared, sit-up and beg steeds up to the top of the nature reserve. Taking half an hour to weave and heave our way up through soft patches and random rocks right to the forestry lookout tower that looked tiny from the beach below. Theoretically for the view (which there wasn’t). Partially for the escape of rolling through beautiful coastal woodland where we didn’t see a soul. But really for no other reason than because we wanted to see if we could do it. On bikes probably worth a tenth of what I’d have said the bare minimum spend was to enjoy such an expedition. But as we summited the arduous ascent, the grins on our chops couldn’t have been bigger.

Apart from maybe as we ricocheted back down, kickstands and fenders clattering as we fought the steering and bounced from root to rock. Then tucked low over the roadster bars like 1920s TT racers to try and get enough speed to clean the little climb on the way home. In the same way I remember doing when I was six, and how my mum described descending Welsh passes on even more primitive bikes when she was a kid.

And now I’m back home. With a workshop full of exotica I’m primarily paid to whinge about and find fault with just to prove a point. And I really miss the B’Twin sisters, but will always remember the lesson they taught us. That you don’t need tech, or high performance, you don’t even need comfort or gears. Bikes are just a fundamentally wonderful way to roll through life on, in a really present, joyful and freeing way, that seems to be becoming rarer every day.

For anyone wanting to experience the joy of the B’Twin twins themselves or take their own bikes to the stunning and unspoilt forests and beaches of southern Andalusia, then contact Marina and Cal at searetreat.co.uk – and yes, being on the Spanish Atlantic coast, they run surf camps too.

Mountain biking, gravel riding and indoor training are not something that generally speaking goes hand in hand. Most of the indoor cycling apps are focused purely on-road riding and there is not much on the way of virtual dirt to excite off-road riders.

If you're considering giving virtual cycling a try, there are lots of reasons to give it a go. They include the big fitness gains that can be made, with being able to just jump on and ride at any time, and with a summer of record rain being forecast, it's maybe the right time to assemble your own 'pain cave'.

If mountain biking and off-road thrills are your thing, then ROUVY could be the best virtual cycling simulator around and is well worth checking out. It's not only one of the most cost-effective virtual cycling platforms but it has loads of the best mountain biking routes to choose from – and right now you can try it for free for 7 days.

What is ROUVY?

ROUVY is more than just a virtual cycling simulator, it's a comprehensive virtual cycling platform, and I found it to offer a more realistic and real-life alternative to Zwift. What I liked was the choice of how you immerse yourself into ROUVY – the graphics element is there, similar to Zwift, but you also have the option of real-life video routes from all over the world. This includes some of the best mountain biking and off-road events like the Sabana Race, Cruce del Istmo, Brasil Ride, and Mitas 4 Islands.

If you're a multi-discipline rider there are instantly recognizable climbs like Alpe d'Huez, Col du Tourmalet and Sa Calobra. Another excellent feature is the addition of stages from events like this year's Giro d'Italia and the Tour of Germany. Those and other events and special routes include an immersive simulation technology that mixes HD video with 3D elements. ROUVY also allows a map-only view which is useful if you're concentrating on a workout and don't want any video distractions.

There are four different training modes available, allowing users to train on real routes, take spin classes, engage in track cycling, and customize workouts like the dreaded FTP test.

Most of my riding outdoors is gravel and mountain biking, and trying out ROUVY for the first time, there was plenty of appeal. Not only is there plenty of dirt and gravel to ride, but ROUVY can also simulate real-life terrain changes and the software adapts the speed and resistance to the terrain to create what feels like a real life-like experience.

Another brilliant part of ROUVY is being able to upload your own video, 3D routes, or GPX files to the platform and ride along at home, and share them with friends and family. The Video Route Editor app will create a virtual version of your favorite rides which is very cool indeed. Riding the World Championships XC course in Scotland?, then strap on your action camera, record the ride, upload it to ROUVY and let everyone see you unleash your inner Tom Pidcock.

ROUVY also offers the chance to ride with some of the biggest names in cycling and there are several special Group Rides with an impressive line-up of ROUVY ambassadors that include legends like Alberto Contador, Chris Froome, Mikel Landa, Oscar Freire, and World Time Trial champion, Remco Evenepoel.

ROUVY is also compatible with Strava, TrainingPeaks, and Garmin Connect. So once you’ve finished your indoor ride, you can export it to one of those three apps to see all your ride data too.

The last version of ROUVY, launched some days ago, is the only indoor cycling software that allows users to pause and resume activities.

ROUVY features a huge variety of real-world tracks in video and 3D, allowing you to ride any type of track in the world. The ability to pause and resume an activity opens the door to ultra-distance challenges in virtual cycling.

From now on, you will be able to define your own itineraries within each ROUVY virtual route, complete the section you want and pause your training to continue collecting kilometres the next day.

It’s also a very affordable indoor cycling simulator. The premium plans cost €11 per month, or €110 annually. You can also choose from a family plan option, which allows three members of the same household to share ROUVY Premium for just €129 per year (that works out at just €43 per user per year). This works well for multi-rider households, particularly if you and your family don’t want to ride the same thing.

If you want to give it a go before committing, you can try ROUVY for free for 7 days.

What do I need to get started?

Indoor training, especially pre-covid was a fairly expensive outlay, but the Covid boom in cycling meant lots of new cyclists were buying the best turbo trainers, and the brands also launched new products to suit all budgets. So you don’t need to spend a fortune on a new kit to get started with indoor training, and having had a hunt around on Facebook Marketplace and eBay there are plenty of smart turbo trainers (one that connects via Bluetooth or ANT+) to choose from at great prices. A smart bike (like a Wattbike is also a great option), but more costly. The big online retailers are always discounting too, especially around big shopping events like Amazon Prime Day and Black Friday.

You’ll also need a smartphone (Android), tablet (Android or iPad) or laptop (Mac or Windows) to run ROUVY, and definitely invest in a fan too, as indoor sessions can get pretty hot.

Try it free, for 30 days

New members can sign up for a free 30-day trial with no need to commit straight away, once the 30 days are up and you’ve decided ROUVY is for you, there’s a choice of a monthly (€11 per month) or yearly (€110 annually) premium subscription, or join as a family and get three memberships for just €129 (€43 per person).

If you want to give it a go before committing, you can try ROUVY for free for 7 days.

I can’t remember how it started, but I do know it’s now probably our favorite ride of the year. An adventure that seems to take us into another world. A properly privileged place where you interact with nature, time and your own mind and body in a completely different way to normal. Where wild animals that normally run before you even see them, stop and stare as you go past metres away. Where roads and trails are almost uniquely yours as you glide through the night in stealth mode. Creeping past closed curtains of remote farmhouses, crossing main roads that are deserted in either direction and sneaking ‘cheeky’ trail options you’d never get away with except in the darkest hours.

Leaving lights off for as long as you dare as distant embers of the day dip into the orange horizon. Immersing yourself into the blackness for hours on end so that your eyes can suck in all the singletrack information they need from the lowest power settings. Letting the light from the moon throw its eerie blue light into the lumen count. Or if you're really lucky, hunting over the moorland totally lights off under a full moon like a wheeled werewolf. 

Bridging the surprisingly short gap from the previous day dying until a glow begins to creep across the upper edge of the inky landscape. Then gradually grow until the first brilliant blast of vivid sunlight strobes through trees or shimmers on misty water. Finally bringing the hope of warmth to bodies starved of cosy comfort by the utterly daft decision to swap a duvet for an overnight dirt mission.

Overnighting amps up the adventure stakes dramatically too. If shops won’t open for five hours, you’re relying totally on what you can carry – or what you've cunningly stashed en route beforehand. Rationing bars, sandwiches and bottles in the same way you have to start rationing your energy once the giddy ‘seven-year-olds on a sleepover’ energy runs out. Generally, it's the same moment you realize you’re a very tiny, vulnerable speck in a very big and very dark world and mum isn't going to make you all hot chocolate. Nursing aching knees, empty legs, numb feet and hands and burning shoulders that feed off your fatigue. All the while trying not to think that all the murderers and monsters from every horror film you’ve seen, might be waiting in the blackness your lights can't reach.

Marvelling how emotions multiply when everything else is stripped away but the occasional haunting call of a bird or animal. An alien, thrillingly threatening world where the group bond is forged like no other. Where a shared snack, an encouraging check-in on a climb, or a drop back to give a flagging rider the morale-boosting lead on the singletrack, rather than letting them fumble around increasingly far behind. Where rich conversations and quietly fought competitions can be communicated compellingly and completely without a word, just a quick sideways smile between you in the moonlight. 

And then the ultimate reward. Rolling back into the ‘real world’ as it gradually reawakens from another average night for most of it’s inhabitants but one that's been something truly special for you and your mates. Memories of incredible sunsets and lying on the ground watching stars and satellites in a cloudless sky. Or of dogged determination in the face of fog, rain, or mechanical nightmares where you’ve shivered and suffered but still pushed on. Powered only by the encouragement of others and the thought of how good that breakfast is going to taste.

Then there's the comedy comradeship of the day after. Sharing pictures and stories, comparing aches and finding out who's painfully taking stairs one at a time. Proving that a ride that really doesn’t seem real now definitely happened with every fiery muscle fiber when you finally get to the top. And even when your legs are still cramping, your stomach is still hollow and raw eyes are fighting to stay open, you’re already thinking of next year's stupid solstice adventure. 

Mountain bike suspension has a whole language of its own, and some of it seems to make no sense at all. Learn how to talk fork with our experts though and you’ll know what everything in your front suspension is called and what it does. We’ve also included the common descriptors of fork performance and problems, complete with advice on how to adjust your fork so it rides perfectly for you.

You can navigate your way through the terms using the side navigation, we've also linked the explanations where relevant, so click on the hyperlinks for further info. 

For more on forks, see our best mountain bike forks guide and A to Z of MTB suspension.

Air spring

Spring formed by a sealed air chamber. Lighter than a coil spring and can be easily adjusted by altering the air pressure. Will naturally ramp up in resistance deeper in the stroke though and can theoretically change spring rate if it gets really hot when working hard. If you want a basic idea how it works, stick your finger over the end of a pump and try and press it down.

Arch

The arch that joins the two lower legs together. Normally on the front of the fork, but Manitou arches have always been at the back (see the ‘WTF Manitou’ section later) and Fox copied that layout on their latest AI-designed superlight XC fork. 

Axle to crown height

The overall length of the fork from the axle to where it connects to the bike. Not all forks of the same travel have the same axle to crown, so check the measurement if swapping forks in case it upsets your geometry. If you can get a bit more travel in for the same length, that’s a win though.

Bladder

Damper that uses a stretchy rubber bag (the bladder) to let the oil contract and expand as it flows through the system. Simple and effective but can split.

Bottomless Tokens

The RockShox name for volume spacers. AKA, internally fitted plastic cylinders that are used to adjust how progressive the spring rate of your fork is.

Bottom out

The behavior of the fork as it reaches full travel. On crude forks the fork can literally slam metal on metal at full stroke. Most forks now use at least a rubber bottom out bumper to soften the blow. You can reduce the likelihood of bottoming out by increasing the air spring pressure or adding more high speed compression damping.

Bottom out bumper

Rubber lump or coil spring that stops metal on metal contact at when your fork bottoms out – aka runs out of travel. See bottom out above for more.

Bottom race

Not really part of the fork but as it’s hammered onto the steerer, we’ve included it here. The bottom race sits below the lower headset bearing so it can turn smoothly on. Make sure it’s there, clean and straight when you put your bike together or you won’t be steering well. 

Brake mount

All forks worth having now use ‘post mount’ brakes with two bolted stubs sticking backwards out of the bottom of the left fork leg. Some big forks will only work with 180mm or bigger discs. Some lightweight XC forks are only safe with 180mm or smaller discs.

Brake spacer

Wiggly bar or little cylinder spacers that let you run a bigger rotor than the basic post mount position.

Breakaway force

The amount of load needed to overcome stiction and start the fork moving in its travel.

Bushings

Smooth rings (generally synthetic but sometimes steel on cheaper forks) in the lower legs that the stanchions slide through as the fork does its thing. Bushings that are too loose will make the fork wobble and potentially jam under braking or cornering. Bushing that are too tight will make the fork feel really sticky and stubborn.

ButterCups

This is RockShox' name for small elastomer pucks at the bottom of the damper and spring shafts where they join the lower legs. The idea is that they reduce vibration and make the fork more comfortable and less tiring to ride. 

Cartridge

Damper that’s self-contained in a sealed cartridge to stop air getting in and giving it indigestion. More complicated than a bladder but generally longer lived.

Cavitation

Sudden loss of damper control generally because the suspension is moving too quickly for the oil flow and it forms a vacuum behind the piston. It can also happen if air has got into the damping oil through a leak in the bladder or cartridge.

Coil spring

A steel (or very occasionally titanium) spring in your fork that gives it bounce. Generally gives a smoother, more linear feel than an air spring. Heavier than air though and resistance can’t be tuned (apart from preload adjustment), so you’ll need to swap to a lighter or heavier spring if the stock one doesn’t suit you.

Compression

The shortening of the suspension fork as it absorbs a load.

Crown

The bridge between the steerer and the stanchions. Trail and XC forks only have one, but DH forks have two – one above the head tube and one below – for extra stiffness. Crowns are generally trouble-free, but if there’s any creaking coming from your fork, it’s probably from here. Some brands occasionally try carbon crowns for their fanciest XC race forks but they generally go back to alloy as it’s way less hassle to work with and barely any heavier.

Crown offset

The forward offset between the alignment of the stanchions and the steerer. This affects steering feel by changing the amount of ‘trail’ of the fork. I won't get into a trail explanation (we have another feature on MTB geometry for that), though even I have to double-check what it means and I’ve been writing about this stuff for over a quarter of a century. All you really need to know is that shorter 42mm offset forks are now all the rage, though some bikes still use 51mm.

Damper

The actual physical damping system which pushes valved/shimmed/both piston/pistons through oil as the fork moves. This converts the movement energy into heat keeping the fork calm and controlled.

Damping

Controls the compression and rebound speed of the fork so it doesn’t just bounce up and down wildly.

Damper shaft

The rod that holds the fork together on the damper side and has all the valves, shims and pistons of the damper (or the damping cartridge) on it.

Damping dials

Little clicky dials, with lines and + or – signs on. Generally, blue and black ones are for changing the compression damping, while red ones take care of the rebound. If you’re reading set-up instructions ‘three clicks from closed’ means turn the dial three notches from fully shut. 

Dive

Excessive compression for a given load, particularly in relation to braking loads. You can reduce dive by increasing pressure in the air spring or adding more low speed compression damping.

Dropouts

The ends of the fork legs that hold the front wheel in place. Most forks now use a ‘thru axle’ that slides into completely closed bore, but some cheaper forks still use an open slotted dropout for a QR skewer and hub. Fox complicate matters with a floating insert that you clamp into place after aligning the wheel and fork by squishing it up and down a few times. The idea is that it stops the forks being pulled inwards and out of alignment when you do up the axle, but TBH it’s hard to tell if it makes any difference.

Elastomer

Length of rubbery polyurethane used instead of an air spring or coil spring in early suspension fork models, or cheap ones later. It gets harder in winter and squishier in summer and feels like you’re choking on a sock compared to a proper spring. OK if just used as a top or bottom out bumper though.

Friction

Resistance to movement (drag) anywhere in the stroke that slows the fork movement down. Generally caused by seals and bushings.

High speed

The first important thing to understand is this has nothing to do with the speed you’re riding at. High speed compression is a load that arrives suddenly, compressing the fork very quickly. Think landing a drop or riding into a blunt object or like a dog running into your leg. High speed rebound is the sudden re-extension of the fork after a maximal load. Also see low speed.

HSC

Stands for High Speed Compression. You'll usually see it stamped on fork-top damping dials. See high speed above for more.

IFP

Internal Floating Pistons hang about behind the main damper piston in cartridge dampers. They stop the oil that’s gone through the damping piston mixing with air and getting bubbly and inconsistent. The spring behind the IFP also adds a degree of bottom out control and helps to push the oil back through the valve. Not all forks have them as they add complexity and cost, but most decent cartridge forks (and shocks) do.

Low Speed

Again this has nothing to do with the speed you’re riding at. Low speed compression is a load that arrives comparatively slowly, compressing the fork gradually. Think pushing the bike hard into a turn, or the suspension compressing as you brake. Low speed rebound is the gradual re-extension of the fork after a smaller load. Also see high speed.

LSC

Low Speed Compression. Like HSC (high speed compression), you'll find LSC stamped on the damping dials of higher end forks. See low speed above for more.

Linear

A fork that has a very consistent spring rate through its stroke and is therefore more likely to use more travel. This suits less aggressive uses like long distance or technical trail riding, where comfort and traction are key.

Lock out lever

A compression lever that goes all the way to a full lockout of the fork to stop it moving.

Lower legs

The bottom part of the fork, normally made from cast magnesium for minimum weight, though you’ll occasionally see some carbon wrapped ones.

Negative spring

Spring that opposes the positive spring and helps the fork start moving.

Open bath

Simple damper without a bladder or cartridge so the oil sloshes about all over the place inside the fork, lubricating it as well as calming it down. Famously used in early Marzocchi Bomber forks that were super fluid and reliable when everything else was uptight and exploded every few weeks. They get inconsistent when the oil mixes with the air though and they sound like an otter orgy.

Preload

Adding load to the spring to increase the force needed to start the fork compressing. A bit like increasing the spring rate at the start but in a really crude way. You’ll sometimes still find a ‘preload dial’ on old and/or cheap forks.

Positive spring

The main spring that supports your weight and re–extends your fork after a compression.

Pressure release valves

Fancy forks have release valves on the back of the lower legs so you can fart out air pressure that’s built up in the wrong part of the fork on long descents. 

Progression

See ramp up.

QR skewer

The QR (quick release) skewer is an ancient design invented by Tullio Campagnolo in 1926. They use a spindly steel rod with a cam closure on one end and a threaded bolt on the other. They loosen to slide in and out of open dropouts so they’re faster to fit and remove. They’re nowhere near as secure or stiff as a connection as a thru axle though, so you’ll only find them on older or cheaper bikes.

Remote lockout spool

Cable clamp ‘winch’ that takes the place of a manual lever to turn the low speed compression damper to the locked position on forks with a handlebar remote control. This makes the fork less sensitive which can be useful as it gives more support when climbing, sprinting, etc.

Rebound adjusters

Rebound adjusters are often at the bottom end of the fork. Fox hide them under a threaded cover on its forks, while RockShox hides its adjusters up inside the fork leg on their lightweight designs. SID XC race forks use a removable Allen wrench that can also be used to adjust the rebound on the SID rear shock and then left in the pits while you’re racing to minimize weight.

Rebound

The extension of the fork as the spring pushes it back after absorbing a load.

Ramp up

Increase in spring rate as an air fork compresses towards the end of its stroke. The more ramp up a fork has, the harder it is to get full travel. This suits high impact uses like enduro and DH racing or bike park / jump riding.

Sag

The amount the fork compresses when you get on the bike. General advice is to set the fork up so it sags by 20 percent of its travel and then tweak from there as you get more time on it. If using air suspension (most forks do), you'll need a shock pump to set up your sag.

Seal head

The bulge just below the crown where the inner bushings and sometimes extra seals sit.

Seals

The rubber ringpieces that stop dirt getting into your fork’s internals. Thankfully most fork seals are pretty sorted now, but worth cleaning regularly and servicing if they’re looking scuffed or split.

Set up chart

Recommended air pressure figures on a sticker that's usually in a really awkward to read place on the fork that will help with initial setup. I always find RockShox and Fox pressures are about 20 percent too soft for me though.

Shaft bolts

The bolts at the bottom of the fork that hold the uppers and lowers together. They also stop the lubricating oil pouring out, so if you undo them, have something ready to catch the oil.

Shim stack

A stack of sprung washers with a slight gap between them (like a Lego Christmas tree) that control oil flow. As the fork compresses the oil is pushed against the shims. The larger the compression force, the more the shims flex back, pressing against the shims behind them and therefore stiffening up the resistance to the oil flow. Changing the size, stiffness or number of shims in the stack changes the damping range.

Shock oil

This is the oil that flows back and forth through the damping circuits. It’s designed to handle very high heat loads without changing viscosity so that the fork performance stays consistent on long descents. Shock oil also comes in different ‘weights’ (viscosities) so that you can make the damper faster or slower flowing without altering the physical circuitry.

Shock pump

A small, high pressure pump designed for adding air to air sprung forks and shocks. An essential tool if you are running air suspension on your bike.

Spiking

Sudden, jarring resistance to compression. Can be caused by too much high speed compression damping or by binding across loose bushings.

Spring cap

The cap that screws into the fork top on the spring side. Can be hollowed out on some forks to increase negative spring volume. Volume spacers generally screw into the underside too. They can also have a preload adjuster on coil or elastomer sprung forks. Always depressurize the air spring before unscrewing the top cap though or it’ll take your face off.

Spring shaft

The rod that holds the fork together on the spring side and has the air piston for the air spring or the coil base for the coil spring on it.

Spring rate

The amount of weight / pressure needed to compress a coil spring one inch (25mm). Heavier, more aggressive riders will need a heavier spring weight and vice versa.

Stanchions

The upper tubes that the lower legs slide up and down on. The skinniest forks use 28mm diameter tubes while the biggest are 40mm. Most are in the 32mm (XC) to 38mm (enduro) range though as that’s a good compromise between stiffness, strength and weight.

Fox go fancy with gold Kashima coatings on their Factory forks, but most alloy forks use black. If the legs look chromed they’re probably cheap, steel and very heavy. Whatever they’re made of, look out for scratches and wear marks as they can affect consistent performance by damaging seals or letting oil leak out.

Star fangled nut

The little steel sphincter-looking thing that you hammer into the steerer so the headset tightening bolt has something to screw into. Make sure you use a proper fitting tool though as trying to fit it freehand with a hammer is asking for a world of ‘it’s slipped sideways’ pain.

Steerer

The steerer is the tube that sticks into your frame. Really cheap bikes have skinny straight 1.125-inch steerers, but most bikes use a tapered 1.5 – 1.125-in setup for extra stiffness with little extra weight. There are a few e-MTBs using even bigger 1.8in steerers but they’ve not really caught on yet. Some brands occasionally try carbon steerers for their fanciest XC race forks but they generally go back to alloy as it’s way less hassle to work with and barely any heavier.

Step

A cut out on the inside of the lower legs of Fox ‘Step Cast’ XC race forks lets them use a narrower stance – and therefore narrower, lighter crown and arch – without catching the brake rotor. 

Stiction

Friction at the start of the stroke that stops the initial movement of the fork. The effect of this can be reduced by the negative spring.

Stroke

The telescopic movement of the suspension through it’s travel. 

Thru axle

Hollow axle for the front hub in either 15mm (XC, trail, enduro forks) or 20mm (DH, bike park forks) diameter. Most designs simply screw into the fork and come in simple bolted or cam axle formats. Suntour’s Q-Loc uses an expanding rose joint to secure the axle whichever side you slide it in. This is really clever until it gets dirty and then it’s not clever at all. Not sure why anybody shortened through axle to thru axle, but it’s kind of stuck and I hope they got the ‘o’ and ‘g’ keys fixed on their keyboard eventually.

Top out

The behavior of the fork as it reaches full extension. It’s rarely an issue on more expensive forks but some cheap forks can give a real clunk or clang if they rebound as you launch a jump or pull the front of the bike up in a wheelie or manual. Unfortunately, they’re unlikely to have the rebound damping adjustment to solve it.

Top out bumper

Rubber lump or coil spring that stops metal on metal contact at top out (see above).

Transfer port

Small blip on the side of the air spring that farts air from the positive to the negative spring as the piston passes it, automatically balancing the pressures. Not all forks have them but if they do, then you need to compress the fork past the transfer port regularly when setting them up. Otherwise, they’ll feel super stiff to start and then too soft when you hit the first bump and everything equalizes. 

Travel

The maximum vertical movement of the fork. Longer travel means your fork can eat up bigger hits without barfing control or breaking your wrists, but that also means more weight. That’s why downhill forks run 200-220mm of travel, but lightweight cross-country forks run 100-120mm.

Travel adjust

The ability to change the travel of the fork. Externally adjustable travel (normally with a windy knob) used to be a common feature on forks, but now adjustment normally involves internal fettling. Sometimes simple, sometimes needing a whole new spring shaft. Check the manual to check the misery level involved before you start plotting.

Travel ring

Rubber ‘O’ ring on the stanchion that gets pushed up towards the crown as the fork moves, letting you know how much travel you’ve used.

Valve head

The piston head on the damper shaft the damping oil flows through. Flow rates can be changed by altering the size of the holes (orifices if you’re being fancy) the oil travels through as the piston is pushed through the oil.

Volume

The capacity of a damper chamber or air spring. The larger the volume of the air spring, the more linear the fork is likely to feel. The smaller the volume the more progressive it will feel.

Volume spacers

Plastic cylinders that take up space in the air spring. By reducing the volume of the spring it becomes more progressive, so the fork uses less stroke for a given impact force. So if your fork is feeling good but bottoming out too easily add more spacers. If it’s not using all it’s travel at least once per ride then check how many spacers are already installed and take them out.

WTF Manitou

Manitou was one of the original MTB suspension brands, releasing their first fork in 1990 and they’ve done things differently ever since. This includes coloring their compression dampers red and their rebound dials blue and using reverse arches for most of their history. They also stuck doggedly to post mount brake fixtures for decades while everyone else went to ‘International Standard’ mounts. Everyone is back on post mount though so they won that one in the end.

I'm an avid mountain biker (and the editor of this off-road cycling website), so as you'd imagine, a lot of bike activity happens regularly at home. I'm also a father and I figured my son would just naturally fall in love with bikes too. But while a procession of pre-bikes, balance bikes, and mini MTBs with every possible wheel size replaced one another over the years, my lad had a disappointingly casual relationship with getting mucky on bikes. Despite a few excited minutes where he was joyfully smashing his balance bike through muddy puddles in the woods early on, MTB failed to get elevated beyond the likes of family walks. Cue cries of "Do I have to?" beforehand, despite grudgingly enjoying it once out and about (OK, chocolate bribes were involved too).

Yes, much to my disappointment, mountain biking was an activity that didn't rank particularly high on my son's 'fun stuff list'. However, that started to change earlier this year.

Looking at BikePark Wales' website (Britain's biggest gravity MTB venue) when planning a riding trip with my mates, I noticed a section marked 'new to mountain biking' with various links, one of which was the 'Ticket To Ride' introductory experience. After further reading, I reckoned that this four-hour gravity taster session using uplifts and guided by a ride-along host could be just the thing to properly ignite a passion for MTB in my 12-year-old son. So after recruiting some fellow family riders (my two nieces and my brother), we signed up and set a date.

Unfortunately, the day we picked was forecast for heavy rain which was less than ideal. We dressed accordingly with MTB waterproofs and warm layers and the weather didn't quell the excitement levels too much on the drive to BikePark Wales' Merthyr Tydfil location. Arriving from England, the drive was straightforward along the M4 and up the A470 dual carriageway.

Getting ready to ride

Once parked up, we went indoors to meet our host Colin. He gave us a pre-ride chat, safety video and briefing, then helped us get kitted out in the full-face helmets, elbow and knee pads provided as part of Ticket to Ride and essential safety gear for downhill mountain biking. 

Bike hire is also included in the experience and bikes are reserved in advance to ensure BPW has the right sizes for your party. Riders must be at least 10 years old and 4'3" tall. All the beginner bikes are various sizes of the Trek Roscoe 8 hardtail. With flat pedals, high-volume 2.6-inch wide tires, a low standover height, dropper post, and confidence-inspiring handling, the Roscoe is a great easy-to-ride option for learner downhillers.

Now that we were decked out with bikes and gear, Colin ran through a few MTB technique fundamentals with the kids then we hit the on-site pump track to put the new skills into practice.

I've always struggled to get my son to take notice when trying to pass on my riding pearls of advice. "Yeah, dad, I know," is the usual answer before he pedals off mostly ignoring my hard-earned sage-like wisdom. Live "coaching" (nagging would probably be more accurate) as I ride behind him on the trail usually ends in dismal failure and is far more likely to result in arguments than eureka moments.

Advice from a non-parental and infinitely cooler other, such as Colin, worked wonders though. I looked on in jealous admiration as my son turned into a model MTB student while soaking up Colin's straightforward advice. It also struck me how I'd overcomplicated things by giving way too much input over a relatively short space of time.

After a few laps of the pump track to get everyone feeling confident, it was time to properly get to business – riding Kermit, the longest green-graded trail in the UK. At 5km long, Kermit takes riders from the very top of BikePark Wales' trailhead right back to the visitor center. To get started, we needed to ride a short section of trail to the uplift pick-up. If you're unfamiliar, uplifts are vans that tow trailers to take you and your bike to the top of the hill. Once the bikes were loaded, excitement levels started to grow as we were driven to the top of BPW's trails. The trailhead is where all the different grades of trail start from and the kids had a look at the wide range on offer.

First run on Kermit

Kermit has been designed so that minimal pedaling is required but isn't so steep that gravity naturally starts to make speeds uncomfortable for beginners. The features are small and easy to navigate, and there are rest areas to pull into as you make your way down. For our first run, we pulled into most of the stops so Colin could check everyone was OK, give pointers where needed, and tell us what to expect in the next section. He also coached the kids through a few particular parts of the trail. They were mostly on sections with linked berms (banked corners) and he explained how to ride the berms properly rather than just wriggling through – very useful advice as the skill level slowly ramps up on Kermit as you make your way down it.

With the stops and the coaching, our first run took us 25 minutes but our young riders were still frothing with excitement at the end. We then had a break with hot chocolates and coffees included as part of the package. Colin told us we had time for two more runs on Kermit. The kids' ambition was to make a full run without stopping, so we excitedly headed back to the uplift.

Over subsequent descents, it was fantastic to watch the kids' skills and confidence massively improve as they got more time on the trail. Colin was watchfully on hand, giving tips as needed. The last run was made without stopping too – achievement complete!

Eventually, it was time for lunch and our time with host Colin was over. We'd signed up to use the bikes, gear, and uplift for the day, so after some food it was back to the hill for more descents. 

We only managed a couple more runs before we ran out of steam. While the pedaling uphill part is taken out of the equation of by the uplift, doing descent after descent still takes its toll and if you've not done it before, you're likely to be surprised at how tiring it can be.

At the end of the day, the kids were tired but stoked about the experience and continued to chat excitedly about mountain biking as we left. After saying goodbye to his cousins, my son continued to talk non-stop about MTB on the two-hour drive home – achievement complete for me too.

Since the trip to BikePark Wales, my son and I have had many more trail center days out together and I'm extremely happy to report that he has been just as up for it as me. The skills he learned from Colin have become ingrained and I've been slowly introducing new ones – while trying to not nag him in the process.

We've also been back to BPW, and after a warm-up on Kermit, we spent the day riding the blue trails together. It looks like the penny has finally dropped on how much fun mountain biking can actually be.

Ticket to Ride booking and pricing

You can book Ticket to Ride over on BikePark Wales' website. At the time of writing, it costs £99 per adult and £85 per child (10 to 18 years old), you can also get a family ticket for two adults and two children for £325 (additional adults cost £85 and children £70).

The price includes the most important gear you'll need for the four-hour session – helmet, pads, bike hire and uplift ticket, but bring your own bike-compatible clothing, eye protection and footwear. The hire bikes have bottle cages, so bring your own water bottles, you'll be burning some calories on the descents so I'd definitely recommend taking some snacks to eat too.

When you’re a mountain bike coach, diagnosing people's technique problems is hard enough. Then explaining the solutions in a way that they can put into practice takes a special sort of genius. 

One of the smallest but most impactful tips from my recent eye-opening session with Katy Curd Coaching was how heel movement can impact your whole body position on the bike – which in turn affects the way the bike handles. 

Most coaches already teach a heels-down position when you are standing out of the saddle on a mountain bike, to keep the foot secure on the pedal and to encourage a low centre of gravity. 

And plenty of coaches teach weighting/unweighting techniques that are vital to grip and flow  – you may have heard them described as making yourself big or small on the bike, for example.

Katy combines these things by recognizing that the movement of swinging your heels from an up position to a down-and-under position (or vice versa) also rocks your whole body into a different position and gives the bike a valuable shove of momentum.

Let’s look at how this can be a great help on rollers and drops.

On a pump track or any sequence of rollers 

On a pump track or any sequence of rollers, you’ll be in a relaxed, standing position with arms and legs somewhat bent, and feet flat on the pedals. Katy explained that to maximise your momentum, as you come down off a roller, or towards the bottom of the next up, sweep your heels down from 3 o’clock, to give a down and forward shove. They won’t go past  6 o’clock, but imagine them doing that, to emphasise the vital forward movement.

Then as you go into an up, reverse the movement and go up to 2 o’clock. Your heels, your hips and your upper body will unweight the bike and help lift you over the rise, ready for you to add more momentum on the downward side.

It took me a good while to feel this happening but I was determined not to leave the pump track until I could feel it, since so many of my previous ‘learnings’ had been much more in theory than practice.

First I had to stop myself just moving vertically up and down, which helped very little with momentum and meant I just ground to a halt long before I needed to. Once I scooped the heels properly down and forward, I got much further round the track.

I also found that nudging the foot position forward or back on the pedal made a real difference to how easy or hard it was to pivot the heel down and round.

On fast downhill rollers

You can also use heel movement to help maximise speed and control on fast downhill rollers, where the bike would naturally want to get air off the crest of every roller. Here you might start bringing the heels down as soon as you're at the top of a roller. This would help keep the wheels nicely in contact with the ground, without sacrificing any of the flow that the downhill and the rollers gives you.

On drops and slabs where you want to bring the bike down quickly

Katy spent a lot of time teaching how your arm movement helps to control the arc of the bike once it leaves the lip of a steep slope or drop. But she followed it up by explaining how heel movement adds to that control.

On steep slopes or, say, drops with steeply sloped landings where you want to both tires back into contact with the ground as early as you can, you push forward and down with your arms after leaving the lip. The magic with the heels is that if you also scoop down with them, you help to scoop the rear of the bike down, bringing both the front and back wheels into contact with the ground ASAP and reducing the nose-down angle of the bike.

On drops where you want clearance

If you come off the lip of a drop and you want clearance, you'll be pushing your arms forward to help keep the bike horizontal. Katy says that because the arm shove will only get you so far, you can supplement it with the kind of down-and-forward heel scoop that we were practising on the pump track – visualising the heels sweeping the back of the bike forward in a straight line, if you like, just as the arms were doing.

A few weeks later, I’m still finding that most of the time I can either focus on arm movement or on heel movement, so the sweet combined action only happens occasionally by accident so far. But I know from other sports that eventually the movements will start to happen subconsciously, first individually and then in combination.

On berms where you want more grip

Chances are you know this already, but on flatter or sketchier berms, pointing the outer crank straight down and rotating the heel down on the pedal helps to lock the tires onto the ground. As Katy reminded me, maximizing grip and turning speed also involved keeping plenty of weight on the front wheel and leaning the bike but not the body. On higher and faster berms you tend to have tons of grip, especially if the surface is well-packed, so it’s more normal to ride with pedals parallel

How to practise it

The pump track, with its combination of berms and rollers,  was a great place to practise heel movement, partly because you could do it again and again really easily, and partly because it was really obvious if your technique was making a difference. Whereas on drops and other features it may not be quite so easy to isolate what’s going on.

Low-consequence drops are also your friend for technique practice. Some of the drops at the Forest of Dean skills area were barely a foot high, with gently sloping landings, but you could still tell if your heel technique was making a difference – and it didn’t matter if you messed things up. As Katy said, you probably don’t want to be riding big drops if you’ve only got a 50:50 chance of getting it right and you can’t tell why.

Heel magic – my three main takeaways

1. The scooping motion is the key. Things started to make a difference to my whole body position when my heels started making a proper under-and-forward push rather than just bobbing up and down a bit

2. Things click slowly – for me at least. On the pump track, the heel movement started to feel intuitive and make a real difference to speed on the second day of training with Katy. But getting the heel movement to work in tandem with arm movement on drops will take longer. A lot of videoing on small easily repeatable drops is being a real help here.

3. Foot position counts. One small and perhaps obvious lightbulb moment was that if your feet are too far forward on the pedals, you won’t be able to scoop those heels down easily. Obviously, you still want a position that’s stable, efficient and comfortable, but I found that even a centimeter or so made a helpful difference sometimes.

Hollywood loves a Rebel Alliance. Way before Luke Skywalker started talking to pensioners in canyons and set off questing against an evil empire armed only with a strip light, the 'handful of heroes' format was a sure-fire winner. Countless cowboy movies such as The Magnificent Seven, and war films like The Dirty Dozen, in fact pretty much every adventure film follows the rag-tag underdog gang against the megacorp / evil empire / ridiculous odds trope. Cinema was just following on the heels of similar tales from the very start of recorded history too. Most of the Greek legends are about the triumphs of humble heroes against ridiculous odds and Celtic, Norse, Hindu, Muslim, Celtic, and Christian writings nearly all follow the same outnumbered but somehow ultimately triumphant underdog / hero format.

Even mountain biking has always followed the ‘rebel heroes’ narrative. Gary Fisher, Charlie Kelly, Scot Nicol, Joe Breeze et al started the craze by escaping into the hills to get away from "Cars. Cops. Concrete." and the over-officious world of road racing. Any intervention into our sport but bigger governing bodies has been viewed with deep suspicion too. And often with good cause if you see how EWS and DH are ‘developing’ since the Warner Brothers / Discovery media Star Destroyer blotted out the sky. Even our brand landscape has way more small ‘have a go hero’ companies who somehow eke out a living between the mega brands than you see with most other sports. We’ve even created a globally successful sport by often conveniently overlooking official access and trail-building rights.

However as – let’s say unsanctioned because people get antsy if I say illegal – trails become an ever bigger part of our sport, and rider numbers grow as outdoor awareness reduces, that’s potentially becoming a real time bomb. As a result, we’ve seen several new groups trying to gather together disparate diggers to form a single body to go forward and talk to major landowners and other outdoor stakeholders. Whether it’s the UK Trails Project, DMBINS (and now DMBINW) or the Reframing Mountain Biking folks, Cycling UK, or even British Cycling, they’ve all got slightly different agendas. So while there’s no shortage of photographs of shaken hands and smiling faces at shared meetings, things are far from smoothly synced behind the scenes. Perhaps unavoidably, these more official groups that are trying to sit round a table with our traditional National Parks and Forest Enterprise ‘enemies’ are viewed with some suspicion too. Even though in the case of DMBINS, what they’ve done in the Tweed Valley area of Scotland has been an incredibly successful template for transformative thinking.

That’s potentially the advantage of the newly announced UK MTB Trail Alliance. Because rather than being an ‘officially licensed’ fresh start-up, it’s actually been in covert existence for a while. I’ve been in touch with founder Robin Grant for nearly two years while he’s quietly and carefully tried to coax various trail builders, bike park operators and other guerrilla groups out of hiding in the woods and into monthly Zoom meetings. These have become a resource to share experiences, approaches and lessons learned in how to move forward. It’s currently only open to people actively involved in advocacy and trail building too. Whether that’s pay-to-play park businesses, or solitary snipers, covertly carving singletrack into their local woods. In other words, it’s very much do–ers rather than being diluted with do–gooders who’ve never blistered their hands on a trail hoe. 

So far the message is very much a coalition of independents, rather than a corporate ‘wrap everyone up in a big coat and stick a hat on top’ to pretend they’re one single entity vibe. More like the Ewoks winning the forest battle on Endor rather than the Rebel Alliance getting blown to pieces in a set-piece battle on Hoth if you want to continue the Star Wars analogy. They’re hoping to get crowd-funded to cover their costs rather than being supported by SRAM like the UK Trails Project. I really like the way Robin and other trustees really got some momentum going by contacting and linking over 100 different groups before even breaking cover too, rather than raising the flag and then going looking for an army. 

People's Front of Judea?

There’s no escaping the fact that there is a big issue with all this disparity. Yet again people are trying to push mountain biking forward to a more recognised, sustainable position to negotiate with those who can grant us more access, funding, facilities and legal legitimacy without a single voice. In fact the more people who do the same thing slightly differently, the more confusing it becomes. Like a mountain bike version of the famous Monty Python People’s Front of Judea scene. 

If I’m honest even I’ve given up trying to follow and support the various initiatives physically – after attending a bunch of meetings where mostly the same people said the same things and then did the same a year later without seeming to make much progress. And I’m someone who’s always wanted these ideas and organizations to work. Because I genuinely think – and again DMBINS / Tweed Valley supports this view – that while getting fully into bed with government organizations and ‘big farmer’ is worrying, at least coming to some agreement about sleeping arrangements is vital to keeping mountain biking sustainable. 

But what if you’re a forester, councilor, or civil servant who already views mountain bikers as an irritating infestation carrying all sorts of liability and other user conflict issues with them? Even if you set out trying to establish some sort of pest control dialogue, it’s surely going to be really frustrating if you find out you have to deal with loads of different groups who seem to be the same thing but actually aren’t. And if you’ve ever shared a table at an access / route planning meeting with reps from the British Horse Society or the Ramblers Association, you’ll soon realize why we’re so far behind in terms of representation. Surely even mountain bike brands like SRAM, who’ve invested a serious amount of cash in creating the UK Trails Project for the next three years, or Trek who have a long history of advocacy support since the early days of IMBA, are going to be discouraged from digging into their pockets again, if there are more outstretched hands than coins?

And no I don’t have an answer for this, or even a witty pun to tie it all up with. Because I’ve been reporting on these kind of stories for nearly thirty years and nothing seems to have fundamentally changed. Plus, whether it was footpath damage, 'North Shore' skinnies, schralping rare orchids, or the rise of e–MTBs that’s been ‘about to get us canceled’, it hasn’t happened yet. So I’m just going to grab a bag of otter's noses [another Life of Brian reference – Ed], make a donation to the UK MTB Trail Alliance fighting fund and watch how it all plays out so I can keep you up to date on here. 

For two years the Rapha Explore has worn the crown as the top overall shoe in our best gravel shoes guide. The Specialized S-Works Recon shoe comes a close second though, and its latest Recon ADV gravel shoe also scored well in our review.

With the Rapha shoe being a laced offering, I decided to pitch it against the very similar Specialized Recon S-Works Lace shoe to see if the king can be dethroned and find out which of these fairly equally priced, high-end gravel shoes is the best.

The Specialized S-Works Recon Lace has an RRP of $325.00 / £300.00 / €330.00, while the Rapha Explore comes in at a marginally cheaper $315.00 / £245.00 / €280.00. Although it’s worth pointing out there are plenty of deals on both shoes, and I’ve added them below.

1. Fit and comfort

Both shoes fit my feet true to size, which was 43 EU (US 9.5, UK 9). In the original review of the Rapha Explore shoes, tester, Dean Hersey, noted that they had required a breaking-in period before they became increasingly more comfortable to wear. However, straight out of the box I found them to be one of the best-fitting and comfortable cycling shoes I've worn, and they needed no breaking-in. They didn't get an easy ride either, the first test being a hard-going gravel ride of around 60 km with a ton of climbing thrown in. It was also a very hot day and the perforated microfiber upper on the Explore doing the job perfectly well in keeping my feet comfortable and sweat-free.

The fit on the S-Works Recon is equally good, offering plenty of comfort and cooling. The shoe felt noticeably tougher (which I put down to the Dyneema material they are made from), so they needed some ride time to soften them up, but didn't make them uncomfortable or detract from the overall quality feel. The Specialized shoe also benefits from what the brand calls 'Body Geometry' with the insole designed to reduce hot spots and numbness and give better knee and hip alignment.

The lace closure might not be for everyone but I found it performed brilliantly on both models, giving a secure and tight feeling around the feet. Out of the two I preferred the look of the laces on the Recon with nice S-Works detailing and brass eyelets that complement the aesthetic. The Velcro strap on the Explore is also fairly redundant and I found it didn't make much difference to the fit.

Both shoes have a comfortable insole with arch support, and water resistance is similar on both models. The Recons have more holes for ventilation but are smaller than the Explores although neither is particularly waterproof and don't guard against big puddles or heavy downpours, but the minimalist holes on the Recon just look better to me.

Fit and comfort winner

The fit and comfort are excellent on both – so it's a tie.

2. Pedaling performance

Both shoes offer an efficient pedaling performance, and I felt very little difference when clipped into pedals. Both shoes are geared towards slightly differing forms of gravel riding, with the more race-orientated Recon having an ultra-stiff sole and a stiffness rating of 13. This is the highest in the Specialized off-road shoe range and comparable to the majority of its road shoes.

The Rapha Explore has a shortened carbon plate which means it has more flex in the sole but is plenty stiff enough if you are hammering down the power. The Rapha shoes have just the right amount of compliance to make them more capable as a multi-day gravel performer, the thick rubber sole soaking up the trail vibrations with ease too.

The cleat position on both is very similar and pedal engagement is crisp with no issues.

Pedaling performance winner

A tie. Both shoes are equally capable across all genres of gravel riding, even with slightly different aims, I felt perfectly at home with both.

3. Durability

So far both the Explore and Recon have shown great build quality. I've not had as much riding time in the Rapha shoes, but what I've seen so far I they'll hold up just as well as their Specialized rivals, and they did receive top marks for durability performance in the original review from Dean.

My main gripe with the Recon is the exposed carbon sole taking damage very easily. Not that it hinders the performance, but out of the box the sole looks so good, but after one ride it was scratched and scuffed, and for $325 / £300 shoes it's far from ideal. This will happen to nearly all carbon sole shoes and is just an aesthetic gripe rather than a performance hindrance. However, the Raphas have a shortened carbon sole which is covered in its entirety in thick rubber with just the cleat plate exposed (which is also scratched), but it just means the sole is more protected and therefore in my opinion more durable.

Up top, both shoes have retained their shape well with no sign of damage or creases. The laces are still in excellent condition and the rubber toe boxes have both held their own against trail debris with no visible scuffing or damage. Both shoes also clean up well after riding in some pretty grim conditions.

Durability winner

The Rapha Explore takes this one – purely because of the exposed carbon sole on the Recons which is disappointing for a shoe that costs so much.

4. Grip

Grip is a vital performance attribute for the best gravel shoes and the levels of grip from the rubber on both shoes are impressive. The thicker chunky soles on the Explores means they have a ton of grip giving a solid platform for hike-a-bike sections and have also remained in near-perfect condition thanks to the durable compound used.

The Recon grip is hard to fault too and the rubber is placed exactly where you'd want it. The extended rubber covering the foot arch works great while climbing fences or walking over logs. They do have studs up front for extra traction, and that's something the Explores miss out on. However, the pesky exposed carbon sole keeps coming back to haunt the Recons and means it's an easy win on grip for the Rapha shoe.

Grip winner

The Explore takes this round easily. 

5. Weight

The Rapha Explore shoes weighed in at 751g per pair, compared to the Specialized S-Works Recon Lace shoes at 624g. Although 63g per shoe might not sound that big a deal, when holding both pairs in your hands you can feel the difference. 

Both shoes have a similar look and the weight penalty on the Explore comes mostly from the extra thick rubber sole on its shortened carbon sole. While the Recon has a full carbon sole and less rubber. It's hard to notice any discernable difference weight-wise while riding, but if you're counting the grams, for say a gravel race, then the lightweight Recon will be more appealing.

Weight winner

The Recons win this round with a 127g weight difference between the two same-sized shoes (both fitted with cleats), but there are choices to make over grip and stiffness performance.

6. Overall

The good news is that both shoes are excellent performers and are two of the best gravel bike shoes you can buy, so you really can't go wrong – whichever model you decide is right for you.

The Raphas edge the comfort, are more durable and have a better grip, while the Specializeds are lighter, have a better look and a more gravel race feel and the stiff sole makes them an efficient pedaling shoe – even though the sole takes damage easily.

I do love both shoes and they do have slight advantages/disadvantages over each other. However, I won’t sit on the fence and I would choose the Rapha Explore shoe as the overall winner, but with similar specs, the deciding factor could well be whichever model had the best-priced deal at the time of purchase.

Overall winner

The Rapha Explore gravel shoes retain the crown as the best overall gravel shoe we've tested.

It's around this time of year that I get the urge for travel and adventure but, like many, real life can often get in the way. The idea of a multiday bikepacking adventure sounds amazing, but in reality, fitting it in between work and life schedules can be tough. There's also the prospect of wild camping, which can be amazing if done correctly but can be very intimidating and a source of concern for many.

I'm a big fan of micro-adventures, which help quench my wanderlust without impacting all of adult life's other day-to-day trials and tribulations, such as family and work schedules. An adventure ride means different things to different folks, but for me, it largely entails a ride on a route I've not done before and a night away from home, preferably somewhere with epic scenery and multiple options for cake and coffee stops.

Of course, you could camp out in the wild for this, but as most of my trips are in the UK. I much prefer the safety and security of a roof over my head, a comfy bed, and somewhere to dry my kit out from the inevitable rain (well so far this year anyway). This is where the humble youth hostel has proven to be a huge enabler for me, making the prospect of a couple of days' riding somewhere new a little less daunting. And if you are anything like me, the hardest part of any ride is getting going, so the easier the planning, the more likely I am to get out.

What is a youth hostel?

So, the definition of a youth hostel is “a place where people, especially young people, can stay cheaply for short periods when they are traveling”. Though technically correct, it doesn't give you a good idea of what one is or what it is all about. I like to think of them as a halfway house between camping and a hotel, in that you get the comforts of a hotel like a bed, nearby toilet and shower facilities, and a solid roof over your head, but with many of the good parts of camping like having your own cooking facilities and the chance to mingle with like-minded folks on their own adventures. Whilst it's true they are aimed at younger travelers, there will be just as many middle-aged and older folk there, as well as familes and occasionally school groups too.

Hostels come in all shapes and sizes, but generally, if they are part of the Youth Hostel Association (YHA in the UK) or the Hostelling International organization, you can rest assured that they are clean, well-organized, and family and muddy biker-friendly. I generally stay in a dorm. This not only keeps the cost down as you are paying for a bed and not a full room, but I also enjoy the vibe of chatting with other folk fresh from whatever they have been up to. Not only is it a great way to find out about the area or the hostel, but for me, it brings back memories of the freedom of traveling and adventure in my younger years.

Private or family rooms are also available for those who are worried about sharing a room or who are concerned about sharing rooms with strangers or snorers. However, these cost a bit more and do need to be booked in advance, as they tend to fill up quickly.

The facilities

One of the things I find great about using a hostel over a hotel is the reaction to my arrival with a bike. Though many hoteliers are accommodating to cyclists, I've had plenty that were, at best, awkward and with no obvious amenities or places to store your bike and kit. Some do let you store bikes in your room, but that's never guaranteed. 

My experiences at the many YHA places I've stayed at have been the total opposite of this. Even the ones with limited facilities were far more accommodating and had at least a secure room where you could store your bike. The last one I stayed at in Ilam Hall, Derbyshire, even had a bike stand, track pump, tools and a hose for cleaning, too. 

The beds are comfortable and clean. I usually end up in a bunk bed, though double beds and twin rooms are available in some places. Setups vary between hostels, but my most recent stay had a nice bed light, and a plug for charging phones, Garmins and lights at each bunk bed, which was very helpful. Not only is having a clean, warm, and crucially dry, bed a huge bonus on a multiday bike adventure, but it also means you won't have to carry a sleeping bag, roll mat or bivvy bag on your ride, freeing up valuable luggage space and a few kgs too.

Most have decent kitchen facilities, which are a good way to save money by cooking your own meals and a great spot to meet and chat with fellow travelers. There are usually key staples like oil, salt and pepper, as well as enough pans and cutlery for everyone, but you will need to bring your food or buy locally. Again, this makes a big difference on a multiday ride, as not having to carry cookware and pots and pans saves lots of luggage space and a considerable amount of money.

How do I find a youth hostel?

You can book a hostel using many of the usual hotel and travel booking sites, as well as a few hostel-specific sites like Hostelworld.com. However, I tend to use the YHA website for England and Wales, and Hostelling Scotland for trips north of the border, as booking directly with venues is cheaper. There are also further discounts and offers available for those who sign up as members, ideal for those of you who go on multiple trips in a year.

One of the ways I like to plan a trip is to find an interesting hostel in a broad area, then either use apps like Komoot to plan a route or try to find if there has been a gravel event or a famous right of way nearby. For example, on my last trip, I found the fantastic Ilam hostel, which is a beautiful converted building next to Dovedale, one of the most scenic parts of the Peak District and somewhere I'd wanted to visit. I then plugged a route into the Komoot app but adjusted it slightly as I wanted to include both the Monsal and the Tissington trails, which I know are perfect for the gravel bike I had.

There's lots of inspiration to be found on YHA’s site as well if you are struggling for ideas, with ideas on locations that are geared for riders, hostels that are on famous routes, or even just cool places that would be interesting to visit. 

Other things to consider

If you are planning a multiday trip with more than one stop, the sooner you book, the better, as hostels often get fully booked, especially in popular areas during the holiday season. 

It's worth spending some time planning your route properly, checking things like distance, amount of climbing, etc, as well as trail conditions and whether or not your bike is up to the challenge. Gravel bikes are often the go-to for adventure bikes, but UK bridleways can be rocky and are possibly more suited to a MTB hardtail at times. Luckily, there are plenty of luggage options with great bikepacking bags and even options like Aeroe's rack and bag setup that can make pretty much any bike an adventure rig.

Remember to check that your bike and kit are up to the task, too. There's no point in planning and booking a trip if your current bike isn't robust enough for the route you have in mind or your ride has seen better days and needs some TLC. If you're not sure, then this handy guide to getting your bike sorted for summer is a good place to start.

What to pack

Though you do not have to carry as much as you would if you were wild camping, after checking out our list of tips on what to pack for a bikepacking adventure, here are a few things more specific to hostelling that I always carry.

• A lightweight shell: A light packable waterproof is a must-have, especially after the wettest winter on record
• A towel: I usually pack a travel towel that folds down small and dries quickly
• Shower gel: I like to use a solid shower bar as they are easy to pack and last ages, but anything will do. If you're using a liquid or gel version, it is worth decanting some shower gel or shampoo into a smaller bottle to save space in your luggage
• Toothbrush and toothpaste: Packing a small toothpaste tube is ideal, again to save weight and space
• ID: You need a photo ID to check in at every youth hostel. A passport or driving licence is fine
• Plugs and charging cables: Remember all the bits you need to charge phones and GPS equipment, especially if you rely on them for navigation
• A map: GPS and phones are great, but if you have the space, there is no substitute for a proper map
• Casual clothes and footwear: No one likes to walk around in lycra and SPD shoes all night, so pack some light shoes or flip-flops and a change of clothes
• Warm clothing: I always like to pack a good-quality down jacket. These are small and offer plenty of warmth if you fancy an evening stroll or alfresco dining
• Energy food and gels: Proper food is always preferable, but an emergency gel or energy bar can make or break a long ride if you're starting to struggle

Father’s Day is this Sunday (June 16th) and as a dad who loves mountain biking, I think I’m pretty easy to buy for. If you're struggling to pick a Father’s Day gift for your biking dad, I've been looking at potential MTB ideas, and these suggestions would make for a very happy Father's Day in my household. This list of items includes some of my favorite off-road products and some useful practical goodies perfect for the best MTB adventures.

I've also selected a fairly costly item that's been on my wishlist recently, so it's a great option if your father's 'Dad Skills' have been on point this year, and you're feeling extra generous. Either way, there are no novelty mugs or random celebrity biographies, there are socks though, you can't ever have enough socks. So, if your dad is a mountain biker, read on – any of the ideas I have selected will surely put a smile on his face this Father's Day.

1. Rapha Trail Socks

Socks may be frowned upon as a gift but the best mountain bike socks are always most welcomed and in my opinion, you can never have enough cycling socks. Rapha's Trail socks are a blend of Merino wool and Nylon designed for comfort on long days out on the trail. The combination of the two materials means natural moisture wicking and insulation from the Merino wool and the Nylon element helps to keep the socks where you'd want them and prevents them from slipping down your ankles.

Available from Rapha, priced at $25 / £18, they come in a selection of color choices, that will be sure to have Dad's smiling. There are plenty of offerings in the sock department from some of the best cycling brands and I've also added a few more options below.

2. Muc-Off Mobile Pressure Washer

Now this could be stretching the piggie banks slightly, but this is a very nice piece of kit that I would love to get my hands on. Muc-Off pressure washers are designed specifically for cleaning bikes and they have recently launched the all-new Mobile Pressure Washer. It's a game changer when it comes to choosing the best pressure washer for mountain bikers as this self-contained, battery-powered unit is designed to be totally mobile and allows you to clean your bike anywhere. No more loading filthy bikes into cars or hunting about for an electrical outlet to plug into or a tap to connect a hose. This bad-boy is completely self-sufficient, with a 500w motor and a 40v rechargeable battery power, and 20 liters of water in its reservoir, it's more than enough to clean a few bikes.

There are a few packages available at Muc-Off but the starter package comes with four lances which are bearing-friendly and also a snow foam lance which transforms your bottle of Muc-Off Nano Tech Bike Cleaner into thick snow foam for the ultimate and efficient deep clean. There's also a five-metre hose so there's no need to move the unit while cleaning your bike. It also has handy wheels if you do need to move it though and a sturdy handle for carrying even with water inside.

Available from Muc-Off pricing starts at $250 / £250 / €275

3. Five Ten Freerider Pro MTB Shoes

The Five Ten Freerider Pro shoes have been around for over a decade and are the top dogs in our best MTB flat pedal shoes guide. The Bike Perfect crew are big fans and we think they are, without doubt, the very best flat shoes money can buy.

So what makes them so good? The list is long. Firstly their casual looks make them great for mooching about in and I wear them all the time – from looking like the coolest dad at the school gate to enjoying the post-ride beers.

When it comes to actually riding in them, their design features mean the Five Ten's come into their own. The Stealth S1 compound on the sole delivers supreme grip and locks feet brilliantly to the best MTB flat pedals with ease and for me has proven to be extremely hard wearing too. The robust plastic uppers mean they clean up well but also do a great job of protecting feet from most trail debris like rocks, sticks, and other unwanted trash.

I also love the Five Ten Sleuth DLX shoes which offer better waterproofing and increased protection. There is a wide selection of colorways that are regularly updated, across the entire Five Ten range – so plenty of options to coordinate Dad with the season's must-have riding wardrobe or bike.

4. RRP ProGuard Bolt On Fender V2

A superbly practical Father's Day gift idea and maybe not the most exciting to some but will be most welcomed by your mountain biking dad. The best MTB mudguards are designed to catch the trail crud thrown off your wheels and will keep rider and bike cleaner and lighter. Our best mudguard or fender overall is the RRP ProGuard, Rapid Racer Products has recently updated its direct-mount front mudguard, and the V2 version now brings greater fork compatibility and several other performance upgrades too.

The RRP ProGuard Bolt On V2 is now compatible with most of the best mountain bike forks like RockShox, Fox, Marzocchi, Suntour and others. So whatever fork your Dad runs it should be compatible with the new V2 fender. The new versions also promise better protection for fork seals and there are three sizes including a new 600mm 'Max Protection' size joining the existing Standard (503mm) and Mini (389mm) options.

The RRP ProGuard Bolt On V2 comes in three sizes and costs £39.99 (US price TBC). 

5. Endura MT500 Spray Trouser

Scottish brand Endura has a reputation for producing some of the best mountain biking protection and apparel around. Its MT500 MTB range is renowned for delivering superb performance in the toughest of conditions. Endura provided some of the MT500 kits for the 'Biking the Bothies' feature I did in Scotland and can vouch for its overall durability and waterproofing.

Part of the range is the MT500 Spray Trousers which performed exceptionally well when reviewed by Bike Perfect's Editor, Rich Owen. Some of the design features that he loved were the medium-weight fabric that gave a comfy fit, the DWR (durable water repellent) waterproofing that meant they kept dry in most conditions. They also coped remarkably well in resisting undergrowth, mud and everything else, making them some of the best mountain bike pants on the market.

If you're thinking of a Father's Day gift, then a new pair of MT500 pants will certainly go down very well.

6. Crankbrothers m17 multi-tool

You might think a multi-tool is another uninspiring Father’s Day gift idea but the best mountain biking multi-tool could make all the difference in getting trail-side repairs done quickly and avoid the dreaded walk of shame. So Dad will be very happy to open up one of these.

Crankbrothers makes some very cool-looking and highly functional tools including F11 multi-tool. The m17 has been around for ages and has remained relatively unchanged offering a nice balance of tools to fix the best trail mountain bikes should a mechanical strike. Crankbrothers has kitted the m17 out with – you guessed it 17 tools, and there are 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 8mm hex keys, Phillips and flat screwdrivers, and a T-25 tool. On top of that, there is a chain tool with 0, 1, 2, and 3 spoke wrenches integrated into it, as well as 8mm and 10mm open wrenches. The chain tool covers most bikes too as it works for 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12-speed chains. 

Crankbrothers m17 multi-tool is priced at $29.99 / £29.99 and comes in four colors.

So there you have it a fine selection of Father's Day gift ideas that will have the hardest to please mountain biking dad very happy. Below is a selection of other mountain biking essentials to consider, if your feeling extra generous, and well you can never bank enough 'Lift from Dad' taxi tokens.

A mountain bike's geometry is the biggest contributing factor to how it performs. It doesn’t matter how supple your suspension is, how grippy your tires are, or how many gears you have, if the geometry isn’t up to the job your bike is going to be uncomfortable and hard to control out on the trails. 

What’s more, although there are ways to manipulate the geometry of a bike, most measurements are pretty much set in stone or require some complicated workarounds to achieve the desired numbers without throwing off something else. When choosing a new bike, geometry should be one of your top considerations. 

Geometry is an extremely complicated subject too, so if you’re new to mountain biking or more interested in hitting the trails than pouring over charts, it can be confusing. To simplify the mysteries of geometry, here I'm covering important measurements, what they mean, and how they affect the ride feel of a bike.  

1. Which geometry numbers matter?

Look at any manufacturer's geometry chart and you're usually faced with a bamboozling amount of numbers, but what do they all mean? In no specific order, let's take a look at some of the key players: 

1. Head angle
This is the angle of the fork and will affect the stability and handling of a bike. A slacker angle will give slower more stable handling at high speed, while a steeper angle will give more precise cornering characteristics at slower speeds.

2. Effective seat tube angle  
If you draw a line between the top of the seat post down to the bottom bracket, the angle of this line in relation to the ground is the effective seat tube angle and will affect your pedaling comfort and position on the bike. A steeper effective seat tube will move weight forward improving front wheel control on steep climbs but putting more weight on the hands when riding on flatter terrain.

3. Actual seat tube angle
This is the physical angle of the seat tube. 

4. Actual top tube
The actual top tube measurement is the length from the head tube to the seat tube. 

5. Effective top tube
The effective top tube is measured horizontally from the head tube to the seatpost.

6. Chainstay length
Sometimes referred to as rear center, this is measured from the bottom bracket to the rear axle. Bikes with shorter chainstays generally feel more playful, agile, and easier to manual and bunny hop. Longer chainstays usually make a bike feel more stable and balanced by increasing the wheelbase.

7. Wheelbase
The distance between the front and rear axles. A larger wheelbase will improve stability but reduce agility on tight trails.

8. Bottom bracket height
The height of your bottom bracket from the ground. Too high and the bike will feel awkward in the corners and unstable on fast rough sections but too low and you risk clipping cranks and chainrings on trail features.

9. Axle to crown (A2C)
The measurement between the axle and the crown of the fork. This is only important if you're looking to buy a new suspension fork for your bike.

10. Head tube length
The length of the head tube. 

11. Seat tube length
The length of the seat tube and determines the length of the dropper post that can be fitted. 

12. Stand-over height
This is the height of the top tube, it’s important to know how much clearance you have when standing over the bike to avoid any undercarriage impacts should you need to put your feet down.

13. Fork rake/offset
The distance of the axle from the steering axis (aka steerer tube), fork brands offer ranges from 37mm up to 51mm. Like axle to crown, this is only important to consider when changing your fork to ensure your bike's proper handling is maintained.

2. But what do these numbers actually mean?

To try and quantify these geometry numbers and make them somewhat comparable between bikes there are some other geometry measurements to be considered:

1. Reach
Top tube length doesn’t tell you much as different bikes have different top tube and seat angles. To combat this ‘reach’ was devised to give a more universal measurement. Reach is the horizontal distance from the head tube to the center of the bottom bracket and will indicate how a bike will feel when standing on the pedals. Many will consider this a key geometry metric when sizing, although it also doesn’t account for seat tube angle so don’t take it as gospel.

2. Stack
This is similar to reach in that it helps standardized bike fit. The measurement is taken from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the head tube.

3. Front and rear center
I have already mentioned the rear center measurement, but there is also a front center measurement from the bottom bracket to the front axle. When contrasted with the rear center it helps indicate a rider's weight distribution when standing on the pedals – although it's skewed by top tube length, head angle, and fork length which has a greater effect on ride feel. 

4. Bottom bracket drop
This is the opposite of the bottom bracket height, measuring from the wheel axle down to the bottom bracket. Why do you need both? The bottom bracket drop gives a more accurate indication of how a bike will ride, a large bottom bracket drop will give you the feeling that you are standing in the bike, while a small bottom bracket drop figure will feel like you are on top of the bike.

5. Trail
Trail is one of the most complicated and confusing of all geometry figures and is easily a subject on its own. Essentially trail is the measurement between the front tire's lowest point and where the projected steering axis meets the ground. Trail has a significant effect on handling and is manipulated by the head tube angle, tire size, and fork rake. Although head tube angle is often touted as the indicator of how a bike will corner, the trail gives a true representation of the handling characteristics. High trail numbers will give more stability at speeds but the front end can feel like it’s flopping into corners, whereas smaller trail numbers will feel more precise in corners but less stable. 

3. So that's MTB geometry numbers sorted then?

Well not quite, the numbers on paper are only half the picture as they don’t work in isolation. When designing a bike's geometry, changing one number will affect other measurements so finding the perfect geometry is a balancing act. The components fitted to the bike can also have a huge influence on geometry and how these numbers affect how a bike rides. Buckle up and let's get into it.

Relationship between seat tube angle and reach
I have already touched on why reach should be taken with a pinch of salt, and while reach is a useful measurement, it doesn't take into account the seated position on a bike. A slacker seat tube angle will increase the distance from the saddle to the handlebars. If you're sizing a bike for pedaling all day, a considered combination of top tube length and seat angle will give a better idea of how a bike will fit.

Head angle, rake, wheel size, and trail
Although the trail figure is the best indication of handling characteristics, it’s a combination of three different measurements and manufacturers can manipulate these to achieve the desired ride feel. Just because a bike has a slack head angle doesn’t mean it will have a high trail number as the wheel/tire size and fork rake can reduce the trail number and vice versa. 

Fork length/stem/handlebar and stack height/reach
Manufacturers usually only recommend differing from the standard fork travel by 10mm either way as fitting a fork that is too long (or too short) can have dire effects on how a bike rides. For example, increasing the A2C by 10mm changes the head angle and seat angle by roughly 0.5 degrees. It will also effectively shorten your reach, increase the stack height, and lift the bottom bracket too.

Cockpit/saddle position affecting seat angle/position
Some geometry numbers can be manipulated by adjusting components. Saddle setup can be adjusted, moving it forward on its rails effectively steepens the seat tube and shortens the top tube length. Your stem and handlebar setup can also be changed to adjust the stack height and reach – although this can have rippling effects on your bike's comfort and handling.

Rear wheel size and BB height/reach
Have you ever wondered why some 29er bikes are approved for mullet setups (29 front 27.5 rear) but others aren't? Surely it's just a case of bashing a smaller rear wheel in and letting rip, right? In some cases this is true, but other bikes may run into issues. Switching to a 27.5in rear wheel will lower the axle height by roughly 19mm (depending on tire size) which will in turn lower the bottom bracket by around 10mm, slacken the head and seat angle by roughly a degree, and shorten the reach.

These days bikes come with built-in geometry adjustments like angle-adjusting headsets and flip-chips, allowing the rider an element of tunability to find their geometry sweetspot. Flip-chips are often positioned on the suspension linkage and are usually used to tweak bottom bracket height, head angle, and seat angle. They can also be used to maintain geometry when switching between 29er and mullet (29/27.5in) wheel setups or change chainstay length. Angle adjusting headsets do exactly what they say on the tin, adjusting the head tube angle by rotating an eccentric headset or switching out headset cups in the head tube to give up to around 2 degrees difference.

We also assume manufacturers have measured their bikes' geometry accurately and in a way that's comparable to other bikes. Have they even measured the production frames or are they simply pulling the numbers from the design drawings? Some brands will measure a bike in an unloaded position while others will measure with the suspension at the recommended sag point. Spec changes across different models in a range will also affect a bike's geometry but may not be accounted for, although the geometry differences are usually small. Potential variations in manufacturer measurements are why it’s important not to get too hung up on small differences between bikes.

4. So what geometry is good for mountain biking?

A few millimeters here and half a degree there might not seem like much, but even small changes to the geometry of a bike can have a significant effect on how a bike rides. However, mountain bikes are very dynamic machines so I think it's important that we don’t get hung up on the details and comparisons without real-world testing. For example, a full-suspension bike might have a high bottom bracket on paper, but when you account for the recommended suspension setup, in reality it may be lower than a bike with a lower sag setting.

It's also important to remember that geometry is often discipline-specific as well, so while a 66-degree head angle would be considered fairly radical for a cross-country bike, a downhill bike with the same head angle would be deemed unrideable.

With that in mind, let's take a look at some general geometry numbers for the types of riding you might be interested in.

Cross-country geometry
Cross-country geometry took a long time to catch up with the longer, slacker, lower ethos, but the most recent crop of cross-country bikes are now just as capable on the downs as they are on the ups. Head angles are usually between 67.5 and 66 degrees. Stems are shortening and reaches/wheelbases are increasing to roughly 450mm to 465mm for a medium bike. Sub 440mm chainstays help with maneuverability on tight turns and 75 to 77-degree seat angles are designed for a more optimized long-distance pedaling position. 

You still get more classically inspired cross-country bikes and they still serve a purpose. While bikes like the Canyon Exceed CF7 with its steep 69-degree headangle and short reach can’t keep up with more aggressively shaped bikes on tough trails, they can still be a hoot to ride on longer, mellower trails.  

Trail geometry
Trail bike geometry is frankly all over the place as the term trail bike has become a bit of a catch-all for everything between cross-country and enduro. Geometry reflects this with bikes like the 120mm Scor 2030 featuring enduro-inspired geometry, while the 130mm YT Izzo is more up and down orientated. Generally, trail bikes will have a head angle between 66 and 64 degrees with seat angles of around 78 degrees to improve climbing on steep gradients. Reach numbers can span between 450mm up to 480mm for a medium and chainstay length can be equally as broad.  

Enduro geometry
Enduro bikes were the proving ground for what we would call modern MTB geometry. Bike brands experimented with longer reaches, slacker head angles, and longer chainstays to increase descending stability while still maintaining pedaling ability. Enduro head angles have settled around the 63 to 64-degree mark, paired with similar seat tube angles as trail bikes. Reach can vary from very long to surprisingly short depending on the brand, the flexibility of bike sizing, and rider preference. While most medium-size riders will look for around a 470mm reach, some pro racers will size down to enhance cornering agility.  

Downhill geometry
Downhill bikes are very specialist pieces of equipment designed for one purpose only, descending the roughest tracks as fast as possible. Slack head angles, long wheelbase, and long chainstays are all used to contribute to the bike's stability. Downhill bikes often feature a huge amount of adjustment as well, giving riders the option to tweak all manner of geometry figures including head-angle, stack, bottom bracket drop, chainstay length, and reach to optimize a bike to a track or riding style.

Now you have a good understanding of what all the numbers mean and the effects they have on how a bike rides, how do you know what geometry and bike size is best for you? And can a bike's geometry be modified to make it better? Stay tuned for part two of this article coming soon.

Concentrating on equipment not the experience might seem like the perfect way to ruin a ride for most people. After all, some folks have a wonderful time on their bike still running the suspension settings and tire pressures it had when it was pulled out of a box in the shop. Many don’t even notice if the suspension has stiffened up from a lack of servicing or tires have lost air over time. I know successful racers and people who ride hundreds of miles a week who don’t really know or care what might happen if they clicked the blue or red dial one way or the other.

I’ve always been a gear geek though, fussing, fettling and researching the finer details of whatever I’m working on just out of curiosity. For as long as I can remember riding I was tweaking anything possible to improve performance. Saving up pocket money for fabled ‘Red S’ grease to feed my habit of stripping down and rebuilding bearings and shifters. Being blown away at how much better Aztec brake pads were than my Raleigh Raincheck originals. Gutted when my ‘Puncture Guard’ Panaracer tires repeatedly flatted on the bridleway down from Tan Hill pub on a touring trip long before anyone talked about pinch punctures.

It’s not just bike details I’ve always thought about way more than most people either. I’ve always been hyper-critical about myself – often with toxically corrosive consequences. But even badly designed tangs or awkward weighting on a fork will properly trigger me and I pathologically hate flimsy, pressed tin teaspoons. As a kid, I ignored fiction and hoovered up the data from encyclopedias of planes, tanks and other military hardware to populate endless pages of comparative, calibrated wargame listings. Theoretically, this was to inform the micro battles that used to get played out across green cloth valleys and lichen woods on the dining table. Now I realize it was probably the process of deep dive researching muzzle velocities and armor angles then translating that into modified dice scores that I really loved. You want a peak geek confession? I even used to mix my own various khaki inks to match the appropriate uniforms or paintwork of the numbers and notes I was carefully filling these listings with.

Digging into bike data

What’s funny – but often eye-rollingly frustrating for those around me – is that I’m not holistically fussy or OCD overall. I’ll often fixate on a particular aspect to a fanatical degree while being feral about everything else. I might be hyper-analyzing a fork on a bike where the shifting is utterly shafted or the dropper has needed bleeding for months. Prepping for hours so I can take three different wheels to ride in a single session then forgetting my helmet. Squawking about ‘correct’ dishwasher stacking like some fascist white goods supremacist, while ignoring the fact I’ve not showered in days because I’ve been too busy riding and writing. My desperation to 'crack on with the next thing’ is generally at the expense of a tidy environment both physically and mentally too.

Thankfully I’ve somehow managed to weaponize this characteristic into every phase of my ‘career’. Archaeology was a perfect blend of pick axe and shovel violence while simultaneously analyzing every slight shift in soil color or composition in forensic detail. I trained as a physiotherapist because I was fascinated by how manipulating frayed muscles and tight fascia in the right order with the right pressure could manifest a miracle cure in broken bodies. When I worked in a bike shop at college, I used to take service or repair bikes for a blast around the block partially to check I’d done the job right, but primarily feed my thirst for comparison and contextual evaluation. I can still vividly remember the visceral jolt of velocity when I pointed the first Specialized M2 race hardtail up the road and pressed the pedals. How many times we ‘had’ to ride that GT RST-1 down the park steps to be sure it was working OK, or convincing a customer they should buy a Dawes Edge XTR just so we could get a look at the latest, greatest Shimano groupset. Even when I worked in a bike parts warehouse, I’d pick every order in the most efficient way to get the job done as fast as possible. Not because I was massively invested in whether a bike shop did or didn’t get their Cateye lights ordered that day, but because I just seem to be hardwired to be both rabidly relentless and process pedantic wherever possible.

And of course, my analytical affliction has been perfect for how I’ve spent the past quarter century or more. Spanning a timeframe from when disc brakes were an exotic upgrade, full-suspension meant an inch or two of rubbery randomness, and even suspension forks as standard were rare. To the current world of wireless gears, carbon frames and tubeless tires in multiple wheel sizes. Where micro-changes in oil flows are presented in global online meetings, more graphs are included in bike tests than the FTSE index and kinematic doesn’t mean German movies.

At the risk of sounding like a spoiled brat, it can still be a curse. I hate to think how much ride time I’ve wasted rooting through piles of clothes to find a particular jacket just to see how it works in some particular conditions. Swapping potential hours of simple, carefree singletrack bliss for hours swapping tires, sealant or juggling PSI to see what difference it makes. I can’t deny there have been some dark days this winter that have got me digging deep for enthusiasm. When every waterproof sock and boot I have is still drying and every ride means an hour of clean-up time. I’ve ridden with a lingering illness, gray-faced exhaustion, and even a broken leg–  when resting would have been much smarter. Chewed my fingers to get enough sensation back to swap stem bolts so I could swap handlebars on £1,000 hardtails on a sleet-lashed hill, in case that’s the difference I can feel. It’s a basic fact of the job that you have to ride the crap bikes more than the good ones too. Because due diligence, respect and reputation are dependent on checking every possible fix before you add executioner to the judge and jury descriptor. 

But then I wouldn’t be getting any ‘bikes as work’ time at all if I’d taken my formative spreadsheet stirrings into tax accounting. I doubt I’d have met so many excellent people, ridden in such incredible places or got to chat endlessly about bike tech in a way that would get me shut down in seconds in most social situations either.

Plus while comparison might be the thief of joy for many, it’s an intrinsic part of my character. Riding the same lap five times back to back with different shock settings could be seen as a waste of flying to Canada for a bike launch, but to me, it’s the whole point of being there. Getting invested in how the bike dynamics did or didn’t change with every increasingly contexted twist and turn of that trail. Reviewing shock footage as a VAR referee for the sensations I can feel but can’t see while riding. Comparing notes between runs or calling up other testers I know are riding the same gear. Sniffing each other's butts like dogs to gauge what we’re thinking without totally giving the game away. Modifying their feedback with what you know about their riding style and personal preferences in the same way my experience with every component on the rest of the bike is part of the overarching algorithm.

Dream job or nightmare?

As a self-diagnosed analytical addict, I think I’d genuinely miss a legitimate excuse for plugging in an extra volume spacer before a ride. Then sticking another in my pocket along with the appropriate top cap wrench and a shock pump so I can adjust mid-ride and WhatsApp. Or wearing odd shoes or gloves for direct comparison with another odd pair in the van or even my back pockets on a long ride so I can double up on the data capture. And while I try not to take the GoPro or be overtly testing stuff on ‘social’ rides, you can be sure as hell all the analytical apps I’ve got in my head are running overtime in the background on every meter of the trail. 

I chatted to Alan Muldoon from our colleagues at MBR in Canada about how we’d almost certainly get sick of riding the same trails over and over at home if we weren’t on a different bike or at least a different setup every time. In other words, while the admin, logistics and faff time of testing means this ‘dream job’ proves a nightmare for some, I might not even be biking at all now without the neurodivergent aspect of our dirt time. I can think of a lot of photographers, creatives and of course bike designers who are in that category as well. 

Or to put it another way, riding might be Ritalin for many, but Comparing Bike Data is my CBD.

Christmas may be the traditional time to pick up a cheap children's bike, but with summer having arrived, many of the best mountain bike brands and online retailers have loads of children's bikes for sale. 

I've been hunting around the internet and found some big discount deals on some of the best MTBs for kids. I've had my fair share of experience in selecting children's bikes and I have chosen models that I think tick the boxes in spec vs price. As parents, we all know the importance of getting the right bike in the correct size, and most importantly, in the desired color.

Gifting the magical journey of cycling to your child at any time is something seriously special, it can make many memories and start a journey in cycling that will last a lifetime. Getting your little shredders the best possible bike for the lowest price makes it even better, and who knows your boy or girl could turn out to be the next Mathieu van der Poel or Pauline Ferrand-Prévot. So read on for my best bike deal selections and I've also added some additional buying tips with some pointers that may help when it comes to choosing.

Children's bike deals US

1. Rocky Mountain Reaper 26

The Rocky Mountain Reaper 26 children's bike shares many features found in the adult full-suspension mountain bikes made by Rocky Mountain. The FORM alloy frame is durable and lightweight and features 130mm of Smoothlink suspension that should make the Reaper an efficient climbing and rapid descender. RockShox Recon Gold forks are paired with the RockShox Monarch R rear shock and add to the impressive build spec on the Reaper. There are also 26-inch WTB ST i21 wheels and premium Maxxis tires and with the 25% discount currently at Backcountry, it's got to be one of the best cheap children's bike deals around.

2. Cannondale Trail 20

Cannondale has geared the Trail 20 for kids ready to step up a level. The Trail 20 has an expanded gear range with 7-speed gearing, and a low torque twist shifter, which I think is perfect for smaller hands. It also has a durable lightweight alloy frame that always helps make the bike easier to handle and more fun to ride. Adding to the fun is a Suntour 40mm fork, helping smooth out the bumps and the 20-inch alloy rims with versatile multi-surface tires will have your little one hitting the trails with ease. The discounted Cannondale 20 comes in three color choices of either Electric Blue, Lavender, or Volt.

3. Trek Wahoo 24

The Marlin is one of Trek's most popular budget mountain bikes and the Wahoo 24 is also a worthy choice when it comes to a kids' bike. The Trek Wahoo recently received new models to the range but this older version still has plenty of appeal. Trek has designed the Wahoo 24 to be lightweight, simple, and practical for just about any type of riding and surface. It's equipped with a Shimano 8-speed drivetrain providing a wide range of gearing for wherever your little one roams.

4. Specialized Jett 16

The Specialized Jett was my daughter's first-ever pedal bike, and has lasted her for a good few years, and coped well with the growth spurts. Specialized has specifically designed the Jett to be a perfect child-specific bike and is built to grow with the development of young riders, with tweakable features like a longer seatpost and adjustable handlebars. The Jett 16 has an A1 premium butted alloy frame and fork and features internal cable routing, a single-speed drivetrain, V-brakes with tool-less adjustable-reach levers, and tires that work well on the pavement and the dirt.

5. Rocky Mountain Edge Jr 24 

The Rocky Mountain Edge Jr 24  is ready to get your young rider set to hit the trails. It has a 6061 SL alloy frame paired with a rigid alloy fork. The Edge Jr 24 comes with a Shimano Altus 8-speed drivetrain which has them covered for climbing, cruising, and all-day adventures. The V-brakes on the front and rear provide plenty of reliable stopping power. It also comes with Rocky Mountain JR21 rims and Kenda tires on the front and rear.

6. Giant STP 24 FS

Giant's STP 24 FS comes with Mike's Bikes trade-in offer which means in it's time to upgrade, you get 50% of the old bike purchase price towards a new bike. So it makes this discounted hardtail well worth a look. It's built around an ALUXX-Grade Aluminum frameset with an 80mm front fork. Giant says the frame geometry is designed for 24-inch wheels and has a lower saddle height and taller front end that should provide your youngster with a responsive, predictable ride quality.

Children's bike deals UK

1. Specialized Turbo Levo SL Kids

Specialized's Levo SL Kids may just be one of the most expensive children's bikes around, packed with trail-proven componentry and cutting-edge technology that you'd expect in adult versions of the best electric mountain bikes from the brand.

The Levo Specialized has an A1 Premium Butted Alloy frame that's lightweight and tough with a modern, progressive geometry. For the full RRP, you would expect serious components and it gets the same 320wh battery and motor that powers the adult-sized Levo SL. Elsewhere, Specialized say the RockShox Reba 100mm air fork will offer true off-road performance. SRAM NX 11-speed gives drivetrain performance with SRAM Level T hydraulic brakes for ample stopping power. The finishing kit comes from Specialized and the dropper post with 80mm of travel comes from TranzX. Handily, it's now at its best ever price with 50% in this unbeatable deal.

2. Scott Scale 20

The Scott Scale is a great choice as a kid's first hardtail bike and comes with SR Suntour suspension fork with 40mm of travel. It rolls on Shining V-6NS 20-inch wheels and when combined with SunRace 7-speed cassette, you might be chasing your little one up the big climbs. The Scott Scale comes in either a Raw Aluminum or Cerulean Blue finish.

3. Whyte 405 26

The kids shred hard, sometimes, harder than parents, and the Whyte 405 26 is ready to hit the trails. This hardtail mountain bike is designed to be just as capable and confidence-inspiring as some of the best adult hardtails. It comes packed with a high-end spec built around its alloy frame with a 100mm travel fork from suspension masters Manitou. Shifting is from Shimano and its Deore 10-speed groupset. It rolls on Whyte's wheels wrapped in Vee Tire Co. tan wall tires, and Tektro hydraulic brakes will give impressive stopping power. 26-inch wheels make it a great size for bigger kids or even small adults.

4. Cannondale Habit 26 

The Cannondale Habit 26 packs plenty of the best full-suspension MTB performance into a smaller package. Cannondale has added front and rear suspension dialed to deliver comfort and control and take little rippers to the next level. A balanced 120mm of travel at both ends comes from an SR Suntour XCR34 air-sprung fork and is paired with an X-Fusion O2 Pro at the rear. The 10-spd Gearing is from microSHIFT and braking is by Tektro and its M275 hydraulic disc brakes with 160mm rotors. Completing this very tidy package is a UDH derailleur hanger designed to bend or break and avoid expensive frame damage.

5. DMR Sidekick 

The DMR Sidekick comes with everything your little riding 'sidekick' will need to be ready to ride alongside you. It has a lightweight frame and fork and a custom DMR geometry with a long wheelbase and mixed wheel size for extra stability. The Tektro hydraulic disc brakes, with smaller brake levers and 140mm rotors give this an extra bit of braking power and confidence for the rider. Short cranks, junior-sized platform pedals and Vee Crown Gem tires complete the package and make the Sidekick a very appealing option for a kid's first pedal bike.

How to choose kid's mountain bikes

Bikes for kids have changed a fair bit since my day when the Raleigh Burner BMX was the super-cool must-have bike of choice. Today’s options generally mirror adult models in design, equipment, and occasionally even price. If you expect to take long or skill-intensive MTB adventures with your child, ensure their bike is just as capable as your own.

There are plenty of options when it comes to selecting a child's bike, and it can be a bit of a minefield at times, but I've listed a few points that I've found handy and are worth considering when picking your child's next mountain bike.

1. Size

Buying the correct size bike for a child is more important than buying your own. An ill-fitting mountain bike can be dangerous and off-putting to a youngster. However, it's not as simple as buying an adult bike, kids are constantly growing and a bike that fitted perfectly just a few months ago could easily be badly-sized after a growth spurt.

Many of the best mountain bike brands size bikes in age ranges and having purchased a few child's bikes over the years, they are a fairly accurate guide to choosing the right size of bike. If your child is on the edge of an age range then it can be slightly more difficult, and having height and inseam length can be a better guide. Most bike brands have either online interactive size guides, or height and inseam charts, accompanied by tips for measuring your child. They can be a big help, especially when ordering online.

If you're fortunate enough to be able to actually visit a bricks and mortar bike store then getting a bike perfectly fitting is a lot easier. Trying before you buy and seeking advice from in-store staff will help if you are unsure. Generally, making sure both feet touch the ground when in the saddle will give a good pedaling position but also allows the child to stop and put their feet down when they want to. The reach is also important and be sure that your child can not only comfortably reach the handlebars with both hands, but also the brake levers and shifters.

2. Weight

As adults, we are always looking at and comparing the best lightweight mountain bikes. Obviously, children are much lighter than adults, so their bike’s comparative weight becomes super important and has a big effect on how easy the bike is to ride. We wouldn't choose to ride a heavy bike ourselves, so saddling your child with a cumbersome heavyweight bike isn't a great idea, and speaking from experience, it can create tension out on the trails.

Most of the bikes featured above are lightweight alloy-framed machines and are fairly lightweight in relation to the size and age of the child they're aimed at. Ideally, find the lightest bike that you can afford within your budget. Most weights are listed, but not always, so if you're in-store that of course is far easier to check.

3. Cost

The bikes I've chosen above are all superb options and come with great specs and builds. Handily they are all discounted so your child is getting more mountain biking bang for your buck. Again it comes down to your own budget and there is also the growth consideration and other accessories to buy like a mountain bike helmet, protection and again speaking through experience, looking cool on the trails is very important.

4. Style

The look of the bike you select will be of importance to your child or children. A lot of the time other considerations like spec, performance etc will play second fiddle to the appearance. If it doesn't look good, then there will be complaints. So be sure to let them see what's on offer before pulling the trigger or the bike could be sitting in the garage unused. A hand-me-down bike can be frowned upon too, speaking from experience once again.

There's much to love about gravel bikes and biking. Our technical editor, Guy Kesteven, is a most definitely a fan and has been involved way before the term 'gravel' was ever dreamt up by a marketing department. However, there's a lot of stuff in the gravel sphere that could be a great deal better, so strap in as Guy vents his top 10 most hated things about it...

1. Marketing nonsense

The bike industry has jumped on the gravel bandwagon so hard that the realities of what a drop bar bike with 50mm / two-inch tires can do often get buried under BS. Especially if someone is stupid enough to let a generic marketing agency get involved. So let’s get some things straight.

Yes, you can ride singletrack on a gravel bike but control, braking and ride position are all rubbish for proper off-roading compared to a hardtail mountain bike. Even a cheap one.

Having more nipples on your frame than a sty full of sows does not instantly make you capable of crossing continents. In fact, I’d argue that over a century of evolution has made the traditional touring bike with multiple crawler gears and tough tires far better for endless wandering than a single chainring bike with fragile tubeless rubber and electric gears. You’re not going to see adverts for them though because they’re ridden by people with the wrong sort of beard and sandal aesthetic.

Gravel bikes don’t make great road bikes either, unless they’re actually road bikes not gravel bikes. If your gravel bike is tough enough to go touring or pretend to be a mountain bike then it’ll be several hundred grams heavier in the frame alone than a pure road bike. You’ll either be spinning the gears or falling between gaps if you take your gravel rig on a Sunday club run too. And while stable steering can feel confident on Tarmac or trail, you’ll feel like you’re riding a Harley chopper not a Honda Fireblade.

2. Gravel haters

As contradictory as this might sound given the title of this article, people getting mad about the very existence of gravel bikes seems silly. Why does it matter if someone buys a gravel bike not a mountain bike? Yes, they might have bought into the misleading hype above, but if they’re having fun then don’t yuk their yum. The fact that their choice leaves the rad trails free for you and the roads emptier for your drive to them is surely a win too.

And if they decide they want something more capable for riding rougher trails, then gravel biking has been a great gateway into cross-country mountain biking. A gate that they probably wouldn’t have thought of opening had it been signposted with the pop-veined, skin-suited racers still generally used to sell XC. Also, I’d rather meet cheery couples of all colors and flavors seduced onto bikes by adverts using soft focus scenery and agency AI waffle about ‘being in nature’ than share the trails with shaven-legged Strav-assholes.

3. Rubbish routes

One thing that gets right up my nose when it comes to gravel riding is standard of navigation. Now partly this is a timing thing as ‘gravel’ has largely coincided with the rise of user-populated route apps like Komoot, but a lot of routes I’ve seen are dangerous, illegal or both.

As well as a worrying lack of knowledge of what and where you can legally ride on a bike, a lot of routes seem to be based on nothing more than a quick glance at Google maps. Bouldery descents and climbs you wouldn’t get an e-MTB up or down. Tracks that are basically swamps most of the year marked as all-weather. Bridleways that all the locals know haven’t existed for decades, happily added to routes that the ‘author’ can’t have possibly ridden. 

From what I’ve heard a lot of gravel events aren’t any more clued into reality either and rely heavily on theoretical cartography instead. Perhaps because when people lose their sh*t about having to push and carry for miles or end up on the wrong end of a gamekeeper's shotgun, whoever is responsible for putting them there can just say “where’s your sense of adventure?”

Oh and one final thing, just because your GPS / app automatically suggests a re-route that doesn’t mean it’s legal or safe. Something our Salisbury Plain based contributor Russ Burton is tired of pointing out to people about to ride past red flags onto live tank firing ranges. 

4. Tire lies

Forum ‘what tire’ hysteria has peaked with gravel and the rush of every brand to sell their ‘sort of off-road’ rubber has spiralled it further out of control. So let’s get this straight: There are no really good off-road gravel tires. At best something that’s just a resized '90s XC tire (like a WTB Nano) provides some sort of grip in most conditions, but the very fact it’s resized to a smaller dimension means it’s fundamentally compromised on dirt. Don’t be taken in by ‘mud tires’ either as every single one I’ve tested has been too hard a compound to be anything other than treacherous on wet roots and rocks. Turning sharply on the road is just inviting them to remove as much of your hip and hindquarters as possible too.

Just accept that gravel tires (just like the bikes themselves) will always be a compromise between road rolling speed and off-road adequacy. And if you really want to play MTBs, then get a gravel bike you can fit skinny 29er tires in, or just get an MTB.

5. Suspension

I hate gravel suspension because it works. Even the most primitive, rubber band parallelogram forks, wobbly stems and bouncy seat posts noticeably help increase grip and comfort. Just 30-40mm of suspension fork travel makes a massive difference to descending or rough terrain speed sustain when that’s the size of your tires. But I still hate it because I wish it didn’t work and then people would realise it’s just rehashed ‘All Terrain Bike’ tech from 35 years ago and that they’d probably be better off on a properly suspended modern mountain bike. But then that attitude puts me in the gravel haters camp that I’ve already pre-cancelled. Jeez, gravel is complicated.

6. Twin chainrings

Shimano are still determinedly introducing double chainring gearing without matching single ring setups, but surely that ship has sailed now? Yes, you get more gears with closer spacing, but you also need a much more compromised frame in terms of clearance and however good a front shifter is, it’s never as good as not having to shift at all.

7. Drop bar dropper levers

I understand that dropper posts levers for drop handlebars are a necessary evil, but they are exactly that – Evil. Awkward positioning, congested cabling, horribly heavy action and ugly aesthetics mean that using repurposed shift levers is a far more elegant, ergonomic and efficient way of getting your saddle to go up and down.

8. Tiny integrated cockpits

If you’re more interested in aero than being able to actually go round corners, is it even gravel anymore? Surely it’s just road racing without the road?

9. ‘The spirit of gravel’

I think I’ve just contradicted myself again with this one, but ‘Spirit of Gravel’ is just gatekeeping because you got beat. You can’t proclaim something is welcoming and friendly and inclusive, then create a code of acceptable conduct. I can remember exactly the same outcry over ‘proper racers coming and ruining our events' happening when cyclocross pros turned up to MTB events in the 1980s, as when pro roadies started winning gravel races. But then it’s OK when Lachlan Morton wins the Unbound 200 race because he’s ‘the right sort of roadie’. Go figure.

From what I’ve heard from people who race gravel and MTB, it’s the latter that actually seems the more genuinely supportive and friendly environment, despite being more ferociously competitive on the surface.

10. Bikepacking and FKT culture isn’t new

As I said at start – at least I think I did but it was a long time ago – I’m a big fan of gravel biking, as a way to energise and expand cycling. That definition of ‘gravel biking’ includes backpacking, transcontinental racing and recording solo times on off-road routes too. But don’t fall intro the trap of thinking it’s anything new. OK so they didn’t have disc brakes, tubeless tires, electric gears, apps and social media hype, but this sort of riding has been going on since the century before last. And for the record, 650 wheels were the size of choice for 1930s French fast touring and Audax bikes that featured some insane aerospace-influencing tech at the time.

The Ruff Stuff Fellowship has been pedaling and dragging bikes to ridiculous places since 1955 and they followed in the tire tracks of intrepid inter-war adventurers all over the world. The Tour de France was mostly on gravel tracks until after World War II and my mum was pass storming the mountains of Snowdonia on her sit-up-and-beg roadster seventy years before Cycling UK created the Traws Eryri route. Apparently, Snake Pass into Llangollen was brilliant for overtaking cars on even with steel rod brakes. There are end-to-end and point-to-point records set on Penny Farthings all over the world and some of them are still remarkably close to the latest FKTs too.

So by all means celebrate this rebirth of independent adventure cycling, because it truly is a splendid thing. Just realize that it’s nothing new but a part of the heart of cycling since the first pedals were attached to two-wheeled machines.

This wasn’t actually what I was going to write about this week, but it’s a topic that’s way more important than what I had in mind. Especially it turns out the next week is the best chance to see a new film on a really rare and empowering subject. That news dropping into my inbox also lined up with an inspiring presentation on a program that’s having a huge benefit to kids across the US and Canada. Not just anecdotally but with deep dive science from Harvard and Stamford proving that getting kids – especially ones who might struggle in a conventional learning situation – onto bikes is an incredibly beneficial move.

Hard Miles is a proper Hollywood film starring Mathew Modine (Oppenheimer, Stranger Things, Full Metal Jacket and many others) as a teacher who takes a group of correctional school kids on an 11-day ride from Colorado to the Grand Canyon. And before you think this is just feel-good BS, the story is true. Including the bits about the kids welding up their own bikes and going from wobbling around the parking lot to working together to overcome mountains, deserts and serious chafing issues. I don’t think anyone is expecting it to make a similar explosion in terms of viewing numbers as Oppenheimer, but it’s great that big names and big budgets are being involved in a cycling version of Dangerous Minds. And the good news is if you enjoy the trailer then there’s a full list of UK screenings – mostly over the next week 31 May to 6 June. Sorry, readers elsewhere in the world, you'll have to look up your own showtimes.

Trash Mob rules

The film also mirrors the excellent work being done in the UK by the TrashMob Academy program run by Trash Free Trails. This is a structured set of six lessons designed to get kids out into the outdoors on bikes to teach them about looking after their local area and their own health. The results have been amazing where it’s been implemented too, particularly when kids who feel like society has already given up on them have been involved. It’s supported by some great brands and anyone from schools, youth programs to outdoor providers (Go Ape and Bike Park Wales have been running schemes) can access the free packs.

Riding is my Ritalin

The news about Hard Miles coincided with a press camp presentation on the Outride program that’s already been rolled out across 350 schools involving fifty thousand kids in the US and Canada. It was started by Specialized founder, Mike Sinyard, over a decade ago following his own experiences with his children and his firm belief in ‘pedals not pills’ as a way to feel better about the world. It’s now a completely open source, non-brand-aligned initiative also supported by Mongoose, Trek and others. The idea behind Outride is simple – it gives kids who don’t have the chance to ride the opportunity to get on bikes and head out on the trails with their friends and experience nature and the freedom a bike can bring. 

While we all know about the feelings of well-being, satisfaction and calmness that can come after a good ride out in the wild, the positives aren’t just anecdotal. Outride is backed up by studies done with Harvard Medical School and Stamford University involving brain-mapping helmets and other sensory trackers. This proves that not only is post-ride happiness a genuine thing in terms of brain stimulation and massively increasing blood flow to the brain, but riding can also even out brain activity in neurodivergent people. Reducing hyperactivity and low activity in different cerebral zones to create a more balanced mood state. Or as one ADHD child on the program put it “riding is my Ritalin”.

Again, the work being done by Outreach is paralleled by the studies and initiatives of DMBINS (Developing Mountain Biking in Scotland) and Napier University using mountain biking as therapy for people who might be struggling with normal life – whether that’s socially or in managing drug addiction. There’s also a US program called Project New Day that uses bikes as part of a rehabilitation program for drug addicts.

Pedals not pills

These mental health initiatives obviously go hand in hand with the massive amounts of evidence for the importance of physical activity and cycling in terms of combating obesity, aging, cancer and even issues like Alzheimer's and dementia. So while I’m probably preaching to the converted here, if you know someone in your life who could maybe benefit from getting on a bike to lift their mood, lighten their mass or fitness-proof their future, then the science says it’s well worth doing.

It makes me furious that I’m having to write this, but what happened to a good friend of mine last weekend shouldn’t be left to slide. Not least because she’s had the bravery to stand up and confront a blatant example of a serious problem in sport – particularly for female riders. 

Amy Henchoz is an Elite level XCO racer and previous XCM national champion who’s represented the UK at the XCM World Championships. Last Saturday was arguably her biggest result to date though, taking tenth place in Elite Women at the UCI gravel race – the Gralloch. She was particularly proud as she broke free from a group of riders with two other racers with 15km to go before winning the final sprint. While she races elite, and trains and prepares as diligently and determinedly as a pro athlete, like most female racers she’s really a privateer. A racer who puts up with a huge amount – including inherent inequality to pursue her passion while also working full-time. So results like this matter to help her justify support from sponsors who help keep her racing. They're also precious payback for all that time she’s suffering on the bike through winter or doing interval sprints when she could just be riding for fun. And at the finish line everything seemed fine. It had been a good fair fight amongst friends and Amy headed away from the event elated, ready to ride an enduro the next day for some R&R.

Except as she grabbed a pizza and prepared to set up camp that evening she started getting messages. Angry, abusive social media messages from someone seemingly connected to one of the girls she’d out-sprinted. Message after message questioning her attitude, her behavior and descending deeper and deeper into personal attacks – all because the person who’d lost missed out on a potential World Championships qualifying place, which she somehow deserved more than Amy. That glow of a job well done and a fight well won collapsed immediately into a cold, lonely, sleepless night questioning whether she had actually wronged someone or could have done things differently. Sure it might be frustrating if she took a qualifying slot for a World Championships she won’t be attending. But the other racer hadn’t even said anything to her on the run-in, or as Amy says, she’d have found it hard to say no to gifting her the place – even if it went against everything she trains and races so hard for. 

The bottom line is that a fantastic experience has been potentially tainted forever. As the race wasn't under British Cycling control, the abuser doesn’t have a British Cycling license so there’s no official course of redress either.

Sticks and stones

I wish Amy’s case was a rare one, but the depressing truth is that it’s far from unusual at every level from world’s best to first ride wobblers. I read a post last week from one of the best ultra-distance cyclists in the world explaining how she’d not started a planned adventure because she’s still struggling from repeated body image-related abuse. Some of it deliberately targeted, but some of it casually accidental in the form of people presuming she’s riding to lose weight. The truth is that skin and bones don’t get you far through multi-thousand-mile, self-supported adventures through the wildest parts of the world. 

You hear it in ‘banter’ at races and just on the trail too. Spectators commenting on how others look or ride in a way that might be hilarious to their mates, but could be massively damaging to the confidence of that rider. Damaging enough to stop them riding completely and go and find a more supportive sport. Because let’s face it, riding off-road is hard enough physically and psychologically without being judged by total strangers. People who have no idea of your backstory, in terms of experience, injury, confidence or so many other things that can make biking even harder. It's a sad fact that if we put "hate" in the title of a feature it usually does better than "love" in terms of views too.

Even seemingly helpful encouragement can be dangerous too. Peer pressure pushing riders to exceed safe limits they’d sensibly stopped at. In fact, one prominent mountain bike YouTuber gave up riding altogether a couple of years ago as he couldn’t handle the culture of dangerous over-encouragement any more. 

Online abuse of riders is all too common too, where cowards hurl hate from behind false names like a nest of cycling incels. Or just make causal comments, assumptions or assertions that cause genuine emotional injuries without even thinking or caring. Because while sticks and stones will break your bones, names can actually hurt your mental health far more and with longer-lasting consequences. 

Correctile dysfunction

And I’m not trying to paint myself whiter than white here by any means. My job means I’d probably get a medal for mansplaining to any blokes or lasses who I think I can ‘help’ with bike tech or setup. I love ‘Hecklers Wood’ at Ard Rock Enduro whether I’m riding or watching. Even though the howling and baying encouragement and cheers for heroic wipeouts might be more terrifying than the actual root and rock fest for some. I’ve also repeatedly found myself explaining that I didn’t mean to use the word ‘luv’ in a derogatory sense, when riding outside of northern England [luv is used as a friendly way of addressing someone in some northern parts of the UK]. I’m sure there are other gaffs I’ve not even registered as well, for which I apologize deeply. 

The perpetually impatient, insulting riding group I'm a member of would probably seem a cauldron of toxic taunting for anyone who overheard us too. But that’s how we like our Thursday night thrashes and we ride better because of it. Plus, the trash-talking on the trail is balanced by the fact that off-the-bike, they’re the most supportive friendship group I’ve ever been part of.

And I guess that’s the bottom line here. For the most part, mountain biking and gravel biking is a far more supportive, friendly environment than most sports I’ve been in. Maybe because so many of us are misfits and/or refugees from school team picks, or other more formal win-or-fail recreations. It only takes a tiny minority to turn things sour though. So before you write a comment that could be taken the wrong way or target someone you don’t know with ‘banter’, stop and think. Because what you do next could be as pivotal to that person as a serious crash in terms of framing how they see riding. And if you see it happening to someone else or it happens to you call it out as bravely as Amy and others have. 

As I said at the start there’s enough to cope with when biking off-road without feeling the very community you’re part of is the biggest obstacle to overcome.

Given the amount of electric mountain bike coverage we do, regular Bike Perfect readers may be surprised at this e-MTB tirade from Guy. Also, sorry e-bike haters, you won't find a mention of 'cheating', or 'it's not really mountain biking though is it' in this list. However, while there are lots of things we really love about e-MTBing, there are many aspects of the bikes and associated tech that could be done so much better – which is the crux of this list from our tech editor. Anyway, that's enough pre-amble, here's Guy's 10 things you need to know before buying an electric mountain bike.

1. Reliability

I haven’t got any official stats, because weirdly it seems like the e-MTB industry doesn't want to publicize it’s biggest issue. However, whenever I suggest that e–MTBs basically have a 100 percent return rate, I haven’t had a single person from any brand or bike shop disagree with me. Obviously, if you stretch the timeline long enough then everything will fail. But when it comes to e-MTB, having serious issues after a few months is often good going, and a failure within weeks or even minutes of starting the first ride is not uncommon. That can range from a system error that resets itself after a short heart-in-mouth wait, or a connection problem solved back at the car with a squirt of WD-40, but it’s often a terminal ‘back to the dealer’ issue. That's a big enough issue if you bought it from a local dealer, but if it was an online shop hundreds of miles away or an overseas direct sell supplier, then it's significantly worse.

How issues are resolved can vary as wildly as those issues themselves. Specialized deserve big credit for turning round most Levo and Kenevo problems faster than a Formula One pit crew and Bosch have a good reputation too. Shimano don’t come out well on forums or chatting to mates though, and Yamaha and Fazua have a ‘mixed’ rep as well, so bear that in mind when choosing what motor to go with.

2. Multiple motor standards

It’s bad enough that every different e–MTB motor brand has it’s own way of fitting their motor into a bike. When different motors from the same brand don’t use the same fixtures though, that makes me furious. I get that the latest generation of new lightweight motors don’t need as much space as ‘full fat’ engines, but if you change fit with each evolution, then you immediately make previous models obsolete even if the rest of the bike has plenty of life left in it. It also stops other motor manufacturers from being able to compete fairly with aftermarket options.

3. Bike specific batteries

It’s the same story with batteries. I get that frame designers are all trying to create their own identity. Some – like Whyte – have done very clever things with weight distribution by co–designing their battery mount with Bosch. Others like Canyon have created their own power-dense batteries, so their full fat e–MTBs are as light as some ‘SL’ bikes. But every time you use a different cell design, you’re making it more expensive and awkward for users to get a battery. Whether that’s for replacement in the event of a failure, for hiring abroad, or the chance for other battery makers to compete in the aftermarket space. I’m not just talking about mainframe batteries either here either, I’m talking about auxiliary booster batteries and all the different chargers and connectors needed for every design.

A leaked document I’ve seen from the European Power Tool Association (my media feeds are thrilling) shows that all power tool batteries will soon have to be cross-compatible, so hopefully that’ll happen with e–MTB batteries in the not-so-distant future too.

4. Weak weatherproofing

One of the great things – from a rider point of view, but not necessarily a trail damage one – about e–MTBs is that they let you ride in stickier, wetter conditions that might be no go on a meat powered bike. So why are so many e–MTBs and their various components so badly designed from a waterproofing standpoint? An IP (Ingress Protection) rating of “occasional splashes of water” is just insane on an 11k e-bike designed for life in the outdoors, but IP54 means exactly that and is the protection rating for Fazua's Ride 60 motor. While most other motors have better protection, connections to batteries and head units (remember the first generation Bosch?) are often very ropey in the rain, or if you wash your bike with anything more than baby wipes. Physical seals on motor or battery casings are often useless or outflanked by big gaps left for cooling, letting mud, filth and even flammable stuff like straw and dry grass gets packed right in against hot electrics.

5. Sh*t switchgear

You’ve spent over ten thousand on a state of the art carbon framed e-MTB with wireless gears and suspension that’s directly descended from Formula One tech. But changing modes as you ride is done with a switch that wobbles around like it’s come out of a Kinder egg, or a massive multi-button lump that looks like a toddler toy. Let’s not even start about how even people with Grade 8 saxophone qualifications can’t operate walk mode on most e-MTBs either.

Some manufacturers manage to create miniature screens with brilliant clarity displaying all the data you could possibly want. But others are happy to make you judge your remaining ride time with a ‘traffic light’ ladder display that would have looked dated on a 1980s stereo system. Seriously people, think Apple, not Atari! 

6. Dodgy data

I know we’re used to bike and kit manufacturers massaging weight numbers to suit their marketing – the claimed Lumen and run time figures for bike lights are often pure theoretical fantasy. But now e–MTBs have added a whole extra level of being ‘economical with the truth’. Try drag racing all the ‘50Nm’ motors (or ’85-90Nm’ for that matter) head to head, and the difference between different brands is huge. Even wattage figures can be massively misleading when you realize that some motors need you to spin the pedals like a freak to unlock them. There’s only one company – hat tip to Whyte – who have started using the genuinely useful ‘battery density’ figures that are becoming a key performance indicator on electric cars too.

7. Hidden horrors

Think of this as that drawer in the kitchen/workshop that you just chuck all the random stuff into and which is now a rat's nest mess of cables, dodgy connectors and sharp things waiting to do you serious damage if you’re not concentrating. Now transfer that kind of vibe to the internal wiring and connector workings of most e–MTBs, adding an extra layer of hell for any design that routes controls through the headset and/or handlebars. Seriously, whether you’re blueprinting or doing the factory QC, can brands please try and tidy things up so not every service costs several hundred quid in ruined wiring or the workshop time taken to unravel and then re–install it?

8. E-bike-specific nonsense

Stiffer forks? Fine. Tougher tires? Totally allowable. Wheels with hench rims, heavy duty spokes and hubs designed to handle extra horsepower? Absolutely yes. Oversized brake rotors and even handlebars with wiring ports? Yes, they all qualify for a legitimate 'e–MTB approved' sticker.

Specially shaped saddles for sitting more upright are definitely a stretch though. And once I see ‘e-bike specific lubes, cleaners, grips and other gear, that’s just battery-assisted bandwagoning bullsh*t.

The biggest irony about all the fake news e–MTB components? Genuinely useful e–MTB ideas like extra tough transmissions like Shimano LinkGlide, single gear shifters, or reduced gear drivetrains from SRAM have been almost entirely ignored by bike builders. Even the Auto Shift systems from Shimano and SRAM that are specifically designed to stop people grinding round in bad ratios or exploding chains and killing cassettes, mechs and shifters by changing gear at the worst possible moment seem to be getting zero traction. 

9. Awful car brand bikes

You might be brilliant at motorbikes, everlasting Gran Tourismo SUVs or supercars, but that doesn’t mean you can make an e-MTB that looks half decent or isn’t saddled with ‘features’ that’ll be guaranteed fails off-road. Not sure what I mean? Check out the recent Honda concept bike or the hammerheaded e-mess McLaren stuck their name on last week and all will be awkwardly revealed.

10. Sustainability?

I hope you’ve scrolled this far, because I’ve saved the worst thing about the whole e–MTB business until last. The sustainability aspect of frames, motors and batteries is appalling. Part of this comes from the lack of cross-compatibility I talked about earlier, which makes the whole system inefficient and laced with built-in obsolescence from the start. Not just obsolescence, but also locking down fair competition from other aftermarket brands too. More worrying long term, there’s the complete lack of any recycling schemes for batteries, which means they’re all heading straight to landfill. That's not a good look for an industry that already carries a lot of misplaced smugness when it comes to being the green transport option. 

Summer is officially here and for the riders who endured the misery of winter, the prospect of long warm days and dry trails couldn’t have come sooner.

While a season of slipping and sliding around in the winter slop will have done wonders for sharpening bike control, the repeated blasting of grit and grime has probably played absolute havoc on your bike and components. Even if you’re the most fastidious cleaner and maintainer, winter has a habit of wrecking bike components, but some post-winter maintenance will get your bike running factory fresh again. Summer riding also brings with it different trail conditions. Mud hardens and dirt turns to dust increasing riding speed and changing grip levels, so a few dry-season tweaks to your bike and setup will have you confidently sending the sunny trails.

Keep reading for my top five tips on getting your bike ready for summer.

1. New tires and new pressures

The best MTB tires are condition-specific, without a soft muddy surface to bite into the best winter tires can become a handful once the trails have been baked by summer. Switching to an all-condition or shallower tread summer tire should not only enhance grip but also reduce rolling resistance. Confused by different tire options? We have a guide to help you choose the right MTB tires for your riding.

While changing your tires it’s a good time to treat yourself to some fresh tire sealant too, to keep the punctures at bay for the season.

It’s also worth thinking about your MTB tire setup. Low pressures enhance grip on winter trails but as the trails dry out and speeds increase, you may want to add a few extra psi to avoid pinch punctures. Fitting the best tire inserts will also help avoid tire or rim damage when you send it through a bonedry rock garden. 

2.  Change your brake pads and check for wear 

Brake pads take a hammering during winter, repeatedly getting doused in water and dirt which increases pad wear. With warmer dryer weather inbound, now is the perfect time to check your pads and, if needed, fit some fresh ones. 

Brake rotors also wear out so it’s worth checking those too. Some rotors will have wear marks on them while others will require you to measure them with Vernier calipers. The minimum thickness of a rotor will differ based on which disc brakes you use, so it’s worth double-checking with your manufacturer. For Shimano it's 1.5mm and SRAM it’s 1.55mm, although some brands like Hayes and Magura require a thicker rotor. Disc rotor thickness may be measured in fractions of a millimeter, but it can significantly impact brake performance.

If you’re replacing your disc brake pads then it might be worth switching compounds too. Brake pads come in several different compounds which have different characteristics and benefits. Metallic pads (sintered) are winter favorites due to their resistance to wear and powerful performance in all weather, however, they require heat to get the best from them and can be quite noisy. If you’re not riding long steep downhill trails, switching to an organic pad or semi-metallic pad will offer better modulation and reduce braking noise and vibrations for trail riding. 

3. Service your bearings 

Bearings play an integral role in a bike's performance, after all, they keep all the bits that spin turning smoothly. Even your winter workhorse hardtail has at least 14 different bearings, and on a full-suspension bike there could be double that. A winter full of dirt and some hurried or haphazard pressure washing (we are all guilty of it) can flush bearings of their grease and leave them feeling rough and notchy. 

Some bearings are more straightforward to replace than others. Pedals, headsets, pulley wheels, and bottom brackets (aside from press-fit) are the easiest to test for resistance and play (side-to-side movement) and only require a few tools to replace or service. Wheel bearings, pivot bearings, and some headsets may require more technical know-how and some specialist tools. 

4. Clean chain and clean lubes 

Winter lubes are designed specifically to withstand rain, stay on your chain, and keep corrosion at bay. They aren’t best known for their efficiency – especially if the chain isn’t regularly cleaned properly, so switching to a lighter chain lube can have a dramatic effect on pedaling performance. If you subscribe to winter lubes and plan on making the switch to a lighter summer lube, it's worth giving your chain a proper scrubbing to get all the winter lube off first. There are a variety of chain cleaner methods and gadgets, although few match the simplicity and effectiveness of taking the chain off the bike, putting it in a plastic bottle with some strong degreaser, and giving it a soak and a hard shake to remove the worst of the dirt. Once you have done that, wipe clean, rinse, and dry the chain before fitting it back on the bike. While your chain drys, it's also worth checking for gunky build-up that may have collected on your chain ring, cassette, or jockey wheels.

Picking the best chain lube is important, if you're opting for an oil-based lube then Silca’s Wet Lube would be my recommendation. Alternatively, you could ditch the whole winter-summer lube cycle and switch to a drip wax lube. I personally use Squirt’s Chain Lube and have found it to work extremely well through summer and winter, running smooth and resisting any grime or dirt buildup.

Before you embark on cleaning your chain it's worth checking it for wear, if it has stretched beyond 0.5 percent it's probably worth buying a new chain.

5. Service your suspension and tweak your settings

The best suspension forks and shocks need regular servicing and after a winter of protecting your fork internals from dirt, it is time to treat your forks to some new seals and fresh fluids. While some forks and shocks can be serviced at home by a confident mechanic, if in doubt it’s a job that is best left to the professionals who will ensure your suspension is buttery smooth again. 

Depending on the trails you ride, you may benefit from tweaking your suspension settings as speeds increase and the ground hardens which increases impact forces. Try experimenting with a little more rebound, high-speed compression, and/or air pressure to give the fork more support when riding. Take note of your initial suspension settings so you can revert back when winter returns.

I first got to try out the latest Merida One-Forty along with its more capable sibling, the One-Sixty, at a launch for both bikes just over 18 months ago. Both models use the same frame, but as the names suggest, the One-Forty is the shorter travel model with 143mm rear travel.

Bike Perfect's free-range technical editor, Guy Kesteven, originally reviewed the One-Forty 6000 I've been riding for the past 12 months. Guy was impressed and gave it a 4.5/5 score saying, "Merida’s One-Forty 6000 packages radical, hard riding geometry, smooth suspension plus wheel and travel change potential and a lot of neat features with super solid, good value kit. It’s on the hefty side though and the seat angle might not agree with everyone."

So after that time using the bike as my go-to option for all manner of trail situations, do I still agree with his assessment and have I encountered any issues that weren't apparent in the initial period of testing? 

Testing the Merida One-Forty

I've ridden the One-Forty 6000 through a record-breakingly wet British winter and it has taken a proper battering. It's put in several hundred miles on my local North Devon trails, hammered through rocky Welsh trail centers and bike parks, and regularly smashed down steep and slippery, root-strewn Exmoor enduro trails. The bike has taken a fair share of crashes in the process too, but unlike me, has emerged more-or-less unscathed from them all.

The One-Forty has served me well throughout all of the above. The progressive geometry gives a really planted feel which works with the grippy Maxxis tire pairing to boost confidence on steep trails. I rode the Mid size with a 480mm reach. It's long for what is in essence a medium-sized bike, but it worked very well for me and my 5ft 9in frame. The 36mm stanchioned, 150mm travel Marzocchi Bomber Z1 with its GRIP damper aided assured piloting on tough terrain, while the RockShox Deluxe Select+ shock worked well with the flex-stays to instill rear end calm.

When the trails turn upwards, the One-Forty is a decent climber, But at 15.25kg it's no featherweight and feels a tad draggy on longer ups with its burly Merida rims and grip-oriented tires. I had no issues with the steeper than most 80-degree seat tube angle which helped keep my body weight over the cranks when hauling up nasty sections.

Changes and upgrades

While there was absolutely nothing wrong with the original Shimano SLX drivetrain, I used the One-Forty as a test bed for SRAM's GX Eagle Transmission and the wireless drivetrain has been on there ever since. It's performed admirably over the long term, and hasn't needed any maintenance aside from cleaning. The GX Type chain only just needs to be replaced and has been impressively rust-resistant too. However, the DUB bottom bracket has just started feeling and sounding like an industrial pepper grinder.

Another important upgrade was to change the Merida Expert saddle for a narrower (144mm) Ergon SM Comp which better suited my dainty sit bones.

With brake pads at their wear limits by the end of winter, I upgraded the Shimano pads to DiscoBrakes Ceramic Pros which are excellent and much quieter than the originals. I've also used the One-Forty to test various tires over the 12-month period. 

Wear and tear

After four or five months of riding, I began having issues with the adjustable Merida Team TR dropper post as it would no longer sit at the height I wanted and would extend to its full 230mm length. I checked with my Merida contact and he said there had been some issues with early versions of the post, but they would upgrade it to the newer Merida Team TR II. The newer post has adjustable travel too and it's much easier to set the maximum height by rotating the seatpost collar – rather than the somewhat fiddly mechanism on the original. Merida branded components come with a two-year replacement warranty, and while I fitted the new dropper myself, should you have an issue with one, your Merida dealer will get things sorted. All new Merida bikes with adjustable droppers now use the Team TR II by the way.

The One-Forty's internal cabling is routed through the top cap, so I wondered what state the headset bearings would be in – given that the extra holes provide easier entry for water and grime. They'd definitely got a tad grindy, but were cleaner than I expected once I took things apart. The bearings definitely need replacing though, which though par for the course a year on, is more hassle than it would be as the dropper post, rear brake, and rear mech (if I hadn't switched to a wireless version) will need disconnecting to swap out the upper headset bearing for a fresh one. That said, if you don't do your own servicing, you're unlikely to care.

While the suspension is well overdue a service, it and the other components have performed admirably over the months of riding over a tough winter and are still going strong. The rear suspension bearings have no discernable play in them and still feel smooth, while the burly rubber chainstay protector is still firmly attached to the bike.

The downsides

One of the features of the carbon One-Forty bikes that Merida flags up on its website is 'on-board tool storage'. However, the access hatch lives at the bottom bracket area which isn't that handy and is invariably covered in crap. While I do use other in-frame storage (with handier access), I found carrying tool essentials in a pack a much easier option. The frame reinforcements required to enable the opening will undoubtedly have added additional weight to the bike too.

The One-Forty also comes with an 'enduro' inner tube strap on the underside of the top tube. While it's definitely a handy thing to have, I stopped using it after a while as the Velcro holding the inner tube in place sticks out a little wider than ideal and chaffed my knee pads as they brushed against it while riding.

While you can opt for a bigger option, the mini rear fender that comes with the One-Forty and One-Sixty as standard didn't seem to keep any crud away from the suspension pivots or anything else.

Merida One-Forty 6000 – 12 month test verdict

After a year of riding, I've been left in no doubt at all that Merida has created a totally sorted, easy-to-ride trail mountain bike and it's been a blast putting it to the test over that time. It's fared very well over the many months of testing which included a winter that has been particularly hard on bikes.

As outlined above, there are a few very minor aspects that I'd change, but they didn't impact my riding or enjoyment of the bike in any way. I can't argue with Guy's original score and I were looking to buy a new trail bike, the Merida One-Forty 6000 would definitely be right up there on my shortlist.

Tech specs: Rich Owen's Merida One-Forty 6000

• Discipline: Trail
• Head angle: 65 degrees
• Frame material: ONE-FORTY CF4 III carbon
• Fork: Marzocchi Bomber Z1, 150mm travel
• Shock: RockShox Deluxe Select+ 143mm travel
• Sizes: XShort, Short, Mid (tested), Long, XLong 
• Wheel size: 29in
• Chainset: SRAM GX Eagle T-Type Transmission
• Rear mech: SRAM GX Eagle T-Type Transmission
• Shifter: AXS Pod Controller
• Cassette: XG-1275 T-Type Eagle 10-52t 12-speed
• Chain: GX T-Type Eagle
• Brakes: Shimano SLX disc brakes with Shimano RT64 203mm rotors. 
• Tires: Maxxis Minion DHF MaxTerra 3C EXO 29x2.5in front and Maxxis Dissector MaxTerra 3C EXO+ 29x2.4in rear
• Wheels: Merida Expert TR 29mm internal rims with 32 double butted 32 spoke Shimano SLX hubs
• Bars: Merida Team TR 780mm bar
• Grips: Merida Expert EC
• Stem: Merida Expert eTR II 50mm 
• Seatpost: Merida Team TR II 30-230mm dropper
• Saddle: Ergon SM Comp

It was nearly thirty years ago when I first visited what became the Red Bull (now Tarw Du) trail at Coed y Brenin. Forest recreation ranger Dafydd Davies had literally finished cutting brash and rolling the last of the boulders into marshes the day before. Turning wild mountain forest into 11km of challenging, purpose-built, all-weather singletrack. And it was that ‘All Weather’ aspect that suddenly had mountain bikers driving from all over the country to ride a loop that you could blast around in an hour if you were really flying. But the fact you could properly blast around it – as it was an officially sanctioned MTB-only trail – with signage to keep you on track was a massive draw too. 

It was so successful that additional trails followed and the forest hut cafe and bike hire set up by Snowdonian MTB legends, Sian and Dafydd Roberts, was replaced by a purpose built eco ‘visitor hub’ on the other side of the valley. Walking, running and wheelchair trails were built to radiate out from the center and keep different users – and their relative speeds – safely separated. The whole surrounding area and the major travel corridors to Coed y Brenin saw a dramatic economic boost from the extra visitors and the model was rolled out in South and Mid Wales. Then Scotland followed suit with the Seven Stanes project, which formalized trail building that was already going on around the Tweed valley and eventually led to the marvelous things being done to integrate and mature mountain biking by DMBINS.

Back to the future

The interesting thing is that the Red Bull wasn’t actually the first officially waymarked mountain bike trail at Coed y Brenin. Two fire road based trails – Red and Yellow – had been in existence since 1991, which is where we come full circle with the news of the new trails. Because what happened after Covid is that Coed y Brenin saw a huge increase in the amount of riders who didn’t want to ride on road, but didn’t want to have to cope with rough, challenging off-road riding. The only official trail in that category ‘Yr Afon’ is less than 10km long, which was fine for self-propelled families who wanted to ride for a couple of hours. More and more riders were turning up on gravel or hybrid e-bikes and even if they stopped to look at the stunning waterfalls, old bridges and remains of the gold mining industry that used to fill the valley they were back at the visitor center in less than an hour.

So in the same way as Dafydd cut more challenging trails into the forests, current Natural Resources Wales trail chief, Andy Braund, has worked with his team and the local Beics Brenin and Summit shops to create a network of longer and lumpier gravel routes. He cites e-bikes as basically removing climbs as an issue too, making it easy for any rider to climb up to the incredible views of surrounding mountains that are everywhere in Coed y Brenin. In the same way as the original MTB routes include some real challenges even for experienced riders, so do the new gravel routes. The longest 'Y Wrach Wen’ route I rode has some steep, long and rocky climbs, stumpy forest descents and rocky tech descents I’d be massively impressed if anyone rode on drop bars.

But as I slithered down techy singletrack with a twitchy 71-degree head angle and rigid forks at the limit of my skinny tire traction. Or grunted up a steep climb in my small chainring with my hands perpendicular to the bars like they used to be on bar ends, it really did feel like I’d come full circle from sketchy trips to Snowdonia in the 1980s.

Don't call it a throwback

But interestingly, I didn't feel like what I was doing was stupid or a waste of time that I could have been riding more radical trails on a more capable bike. My heart rate and adrenalin surge was just as big on the techier descents of Y Wrach Wen as it was when I dropped into the roughest sections of the Beast trail on a full-suspension bike the next day. I was concentrating a lot harder, using more skill and getting more of a sense of achievement trying to ride up the 'hike-a-bike' sections on what's basically a swamper road bike too. 

So while some people seem to be massively triggered by the whole gravel bike trend, I’m all for providing more options for people to ride at existing trail centers. More people coming to trail centres means more reason to invest in them or at the very least keep them open. At a time when many government agencies are being accused of being very wasteful, creating over 100km of waymarked riding for just the cost of the signage and some map packs is super cost effective too. Kind of like making biscuits with spare pastry from a pie. Coed y Brenin is already on the gravel/bikepacking map as Cycling UK's epic Traws Eryri Trans Snowdonia route passes right through the forest on its way north from Machynlleth to Conwy.

Over the past 45 years mountain bikes have evolved into super smart, super capable, fun hunters. With an MTB menu that runs from steel single speeds to battery-loaded, fully automated, AI suspension e-bikes, there’s an option for everyone too. But which current MTB trends could our ultra-experienced test editor, Guy Kesteven, happily do without? Here’s his five most hated new bike features and why they wind him up so much.

1. Headset cable routing

Hating on brake hoses and gear cables that are routed down through the headset bearings and into the frame isn't really news. Especially among shop mechanics or anyone who likes to do their own bike maintenance. That’s because while it might look neat when new, if you ever have to replace the headset bearings you’ll need to disconnect the gear cable and rear brake hose too. We’ve also seen alloy steerer tubes badly cut into by the sawing motion of hoses and cable outers as they rub against the metal. 

The only possible allowable exception is on really superlight XC frames, where the weight savings of leaving thin-walled tubes free from reinforced cable insert points can potentially translate into saved seconds when racing. However, for most trail and enduro riders I don’t think the short-term aesthetic wins are worth the long-term hassles that headset routing brings.

2. One-piece cockpits

The pretty rather than practical design crew have also been busy decorating lots of top end mountain bikes with one-piece carbon handlebars and stems. Again, it’s potentially allowable on XC race bikes where every gram counts but stiffness can’t be sacrificed. On other bikes though, it's just stupid.

Companies fitting ‘combo cockpits’ to their flagship trail, enduro and e-MTB models are purely doing it for fashion reasons. Fashion that comes at the expense of being able to adjust handlebar angle or sweep, or easily fit things like MTB lights or GPS computers to your bars. It’s also a lot more expensive to replace both bars and stem and re-buy separates rather than just changing the bit you have beef with on a standard two-piece setup. Oh and before anyone waves a set of scales at me, having actually weighed combo bars and conventional setups I can tell you the separates often come out lighter overall too.

3. Proprietary e-MTB components

Considering how much people have whinged about a handful of different bottom bracket or hub standards in the past, it baffles me how accepting everyone has been that every e-MTB motor has a different frame fit. You can’t even guarantee a new motor will retrofit frames made for old motors from the same brand. And when SRAM partnered with Brose to make their motor, they used a different mount to the motors they make for Specialized, so you can’t fit Powertrain to a Levo for an Auto Shift upgrade.

It’s not just the motors either. Even if you stick to the same brand, most batteries can’t be shared between bikes because they’re a proprietary shape or the mounting hardware is different. There’s not even any standard convention when it comes to connectors or chargers either. That also means most auxiliary batteries are proprietary too.

And for those of you asking "so what?”. At a time when the bike industry is sinking under the weight of excess stock and too many options, it seems crazy not to try and consolidate to simplify things for manufacturers and more importantly customers. Especially when your original motor and battery die and failure to find the specific replacements you need will mean you’ll have to scrap the whole bike.

4. Useless internal storage

Don’t get me wrong, I’m a big fan of internal storage when it’s done right. Being able to stuff three full-sized sausage rolls inside the SWAT hatch of a Specialized Stumpjumper brings me genuine joy. Depending on the mission ahead, I’ve stuffed coats, tools, spares, first aid kits and even survival blankets into the Gloveboxes on Santa Cruz’s too

However, I’m not into wrestling a skimpy, space-saver inner tube through an awkwardly tight hatch, that can’t swallow proper tools or a pump. Digging through filth beneath the bottom bracket to find the hatch screw for an underside dungeon and pulling out gritty, rusted cargo that would have been cleaner stuffed under my saddle is a literal low point too.

Because let’s not forget, these ‘features’ are not only frustrating to use, but they’re also adding cost and complexity to the frame manufacture, so you’re paying extra for something you’ll soon be sick of using. 

5. Downspecced cassettes and chains

OK, this one is less of a feature and more of a sneaky compromise, but it's one that will literally grind your gears. Gold Factory forks look fancy and carbon bits save a few grams, but if you’re a product manager who tries to hide poverty line spec behind them on a test bike, don’t expect me to be nice about it. Cheap chains go rusty so fast they’ll potentially offset any performance gains from grams saved elsewhere as soon as it rains. Heavy budget cassettes can be enough to make the best suspension feel noticeably more clunky and upset the proportional weight balance of a bike. If we’re talking SRAM SX and NX, they also use a different freehub standard, so that makes upgrading really awkward too. Oh and you get a more restricted gear range.

And while I reserve the worst of my bile for the back-end components, there’s no point fitting a highlight rear mech and wiring it to a cheap shifter either. Because believe me, it’s your fingers and thumbs that give the feedback when it comes to overall gear changing vibes, not how much carbon or alloy is in the mech.  

Where the f**k is it? It’s not in the tin mug on the workshop bench. It’s not in the other tin mug. It’s not even in that Ibis Cycles pint glass I blagged from Interbike in 1995. Definitely isn’t in the drawer of ‘small things that need to be kept close because I’ll use that soon’. I’ve searched that three times now. I even did that thing where you creep up and open the drawer suddenly before whatever it is you’re hunting can scuttle into a dark corner. Not in the box of ‘things that need to be tested next’. I’ve checked that twice. I’ve behind most of the places such small but vital things like to live, crawled around on the floor looking for fresh perspectives while embedding dropped brake bolts into my knees. All the flat ‘I’ll put that there for a minute’ surfaces, random tubs, even the ‘well ordered spares box that never actually gets used' and the internal storage sausage of the bike itself have been frisked, beseeched and sworn at to no avail.

And the more frantic and further away from likely success, the more the swearing increases and the more I realize that if I can’t find it, then I can’t fit that entire drivetrain I need to test. And that converting that wheel to the correct freehub was a waste of time. Obviously, after fitting the tire I had in mind for that specific build beforehand. Idiot.

Does what it says on the tin

And then it hits me. The Specialized bike I’m looking to convert to a TRP rear mech from a SRAM XO T-Type mech uses UDH. Of course it does, most new frames do. And Universal Derailleur Hanger means exactly that. And I know that. I’ve read the press releases. I’ve probably told people what a brilliant idea that is regardless of it almost certainly being a Trojan horse for a SRAM-specific ‘Transmission’ attachment standard change (which it was). But until now – like the price of an $11k superbike I’ve blithely called ‘good value’ because it’s better specced than the $12k one I tested – the real world reality hasn’t sunk in. If this is genuinely universal, then I can just unbolt the UDH hanger from that frame there and slide it straight into the frame. 

Dawning realisation

But even as I pick up the hex key and approach the bike I’m still not wholly convinced. I come in cautiously like an ape about to prod a stick into a termite mound for the first time, creating a live lollipop but also the first tool that will kick-start the eventual development of the entire human race. And as I unbolt the SRAM mech, pull out the hipster ear lobe insert thing and slide the composite (nylon?) UDH hanger into place, I’m filled with the same ‘dawn of mankind’ awe. 

I do that thing where you look around the room to see if you can share that amazement with someone else and make do with giving my rusty old stove a silent “WOW” and a thumbs up. I snug the hanger up tight but I’m still not convinced because it hasn’t quite keyed into the cutout on the inside of the Specialized dropout. But then I check other bikes and the setup looks exactly the same. Once it’s tight, it’s at exactly the right angle and it doesn’t wobble or swing back and forth. It’s perfectly positioned and my next test build is saved.

Universal Derailleur Hanger means exactly that, an end to frame specific gear attachment and all the spares stress that created. My mind does that ‘realization back track’ sequence they love in murder mysteries where it replays the significant scene. Sure enough, when I re-open the ‘well ordered spares box that never actually gets used’, among all the variety of gear hangers there are three more UDH hangers sat there ready to go. Two unbranded – because the whole point is it doesn’t matter – but one ironically tagged with a Nukeproof logo. So I guess that brand can live on for a bit longer in my testing world, if only as a gear dangling link to the past.

A literal gear changer game-changer

Obviously since then I’ve told many people about how incredible this is and they’ve all been way less impressed than when I told them you can cook fish fingers in a toaster. Because let’s face it, the clue as to what the Universal Derailleur Hanger does is in the name. But as often occurs with the wizened little walnut rattling round in my skull, the true significance of SRAM’s smallest, simplest innovation took a while to register. Even amongst the first popular suspension fork, single ring gearing, electric suspension, wireless gears etc, the fact they’ve made all modern frames (not much of a spoiler alert as it’s already on gravel, and road UDH is on the way) cross-compatible in terms of gear fit, is probably their most significant real world ‘game-changer’ yet.

Before we go any further, there’s a high risk I’m going to come off like a massive @rse (again) here, but bear with me. I could have had an easy time here by top and tailing the press release provided by Aspire (the PR Firm for the Association of Cycle Traders) with some "yes, go support your local shop, because you never know when you might need them” affirmations. But I think the way the promotion of this excellent idea is a very telling and interesting reflection on some of the big background issues with bike shops.

Local heroes

Don't get me wrong, local bike shops can be great places that need more love than they often get. I regularly drop into my local shops in an emergency – shout out to Chevin Cycles, Prologue and Spa Cycles. In recent months, that's included some mudguards for my wife’s commuter bike. A cheeky charge of the Di2 battery I lost the adaptor for ages ago in return for biscuits. Or to grab easily forgotten bike build savers like star-fangled nuts for fork steerers, split links, or brake hose olives. 

And when I go in I see a lot of genuinely dedicated staff investing time and attention in getting people onto the right bikes, sorting out mechanical issues in the workshop or talking potential buyers through options on everything from kids' bikes to tire sealant or bikepacking bags. All of these local shops have ‘special powers’ that they use to engage with their chosen audience too. Chevin team up with a local brewery to run events on bike maintenance for women, demo evenings with turbo trainers and they even got Sarah and me in to talk about our ‘Time Travel Gravel’ retirement plan side hustle to the local ‘Wheel Easy’ group. Prologue run similar presentations on tech, but also have a race team that compete nationally and even in Europe occasionally, and their cafe has become the cornerstone of the local serious road ride scene. Their showroom – complete with actual Tarmac and Armco crash barriers – is basically an art gallery that makes dropping northwards of £10k for many of the bikes they build a pleasurably indulgent and aspirational treat. As opposed to (hopefully) a place where you’re going to sully the sales experience by haggling. At the other end of the spectrum, Spa Cycles has a global reputation for building their own touring and Audax bikes and stocking the most obscure but brilliant components for distance riding specialists. So if I need something leather or canvas, or my brother needs a hub for a 1970s wheel refurb, I know exactly where I’m going. 

And if I threw the radius of local out further there are loads of other great examples of retailers doing awesome things to engage and enliven their customers. Moonglu’s marvelous wheel building, Sutton Bank’s awesome kids and gravel events

And thank goodness they have evolved and invested their own extra reasons to exist and attract customers far outside their organic footfall. Because me wandering in every few months to beg a battery charge or buy a star nut definitely isn’t going to keep them going. And while I’m obviously an oddity in that I get sent bikes and components to test for free, the model of bigger items being price checked bought online and delivered direct with local shops only being used for emergencies is the default retail behavior of most people.

Local fails

The promotion of Local Bike Shop day has been a real eye opener in why most people are unlikely to significantly change that model too. And yes, this is where I’m probably going to make myself unpopular with some people. But just like iodine and a scrubbing brush, I hope those I’m talking about can see it as the painful intervention and constructive criticism it’s meant to be. 

Looking for parallels, Record Store Day has lots of promo on radio stations and general interest/news websites and has become a real roaring success as a result. In fact, I recently suggested that maybe independent bike dealers should look to music shops as a way to try and survive. However, I only know about Local Bike Shop day after being contacted by Aspire earlier this week and while they’ve done their best the whole presentation and answers to follow up questions I asked, ACT definitely don’t deliver the positive payload they could.

On a positive note, the two lads behind the counter at Summit Cycles in Aberystwyth are doing it right. The shop backdrop looks pro and well stocked (I know where I’m going if I ever want a Continental inner tube in West Wales). More significantly, the whole back wall is covered in posters for the events they’ve organized over the years, as well as their own commissioned artwork promoting riding in the area. On that note, I’ll be breaking off from writing this in five minutes to jump on a call with them about a whole network of gravel routes at Coed Y Brenin that they’ve been a powerful driving force behind. Like many other Local Bike Shop businesses, they’ll be doing offers on bikes bits and servicing on May 4th too, as well as a prize giveaway. 

The other two images supplied to highlight the day hardly reflect retailers that are potentially selling products the price of a car and many times more than a Macbook. It’s awesome that De Ver cycles in Streatham are teaming up with Britain's first black cycling champion, Maurice Burton, for a meet and greet book signing and social ride. And I get that the shot has been taken in what’s clearly a well-equipped bike fitting section of the shop, which suggests they’re a great place to start your journey to being a champion yourself. If you don’t know that’s what you’re looking at though it’s a backdrop of a turbo trainer, with a QR skewer and discarded packaging left on the floor and bars randomly hung on the kind of slat wall you normally don’t see anywhere but in pop up discount shops any more. The crew outside Bicycle Links in Norwich look exactly like the kind of friendly bunch who’d make cycling more fun and welcoming for everyone and their idea of a ‘Yard Sale’ of affordable and second-hand kit is also a great way to lower the cost barrier of riding. However, I’m only guessing they’re outside the shop though as the shutters are down and there’s literally not a single logo or sign in sight. C’mon Bicycle Links, big up yourselves so people know where to come.

No news isn't good news

While I guess the ACT are trying to keep a positive spin on things despite the widely reported mess the bike industry is in, that seems an odd strategy too. After all, there’s nothing like an endangered species ‘call to arms’ to get people invested in saving whatever you’re promoting. Whether it’s saving curlews or independent music venues nothing spurs people into action like the threat of extinction of something they love. However there’s nothing in the official press release about how many local bike shops have closed recently. So I asked Aspire to ask the ACT, confident that they’d have some suitably demise of the dodo style data for me to create a “local bike shops are dying and only you can save them” clickbait headline. But what did Howard from Aspire actually get from them...? 

“We believe the rate of closures in the independent bike shop sector has been higher than we can remember than at any point over the last 15 years. Whilst we don’t have specific stats, over the last quarter we’ve noted about eight closures a month, which is significant.”

Are you for real? You’re the Association of Cycle Traders yet you ‘don’t have specific stats’ for the health of the people you’re supposed to represent. To add insult to ignorance they followed up with...

“We also know from a new report from the Local Data Company (LDA) that small shops have been more "agile" at fighting Covid sale slumps than chain stores”. 

Brilliant. So not only is this like the World Wildlife Fund saying “we haven’t seen many rhinos for a while, they might be in danger”, then following up with “to be honest though, way more rats have died than rhinos so it could be worse.” And if you look on the official localbikeshopday.co.uk website with a day to go you’ll find a few Facebook page links alongside a Twitter feed that says “Nothing to see here – yet”. Brilliant. And if this ends up being bounced around industry bulletin boards and I get canceled by the ACT on LinkedIn, then so be it. They need a mirror holding up to what seems a massively half-arsed effort to leverage what’s actually a great idea.

Championing the champions

We really do need the local bike shops that work so hard to make a difference and deliver a huge amount in terms of enriching the riding environment. Whether that’s sponsoring local races and trail builders, giving discount to up-and-coming riders, sorting out local rides, or hosting tech and teaching evenings.

With massively rising utility costs, reduced consumer spending, and huge online sales wherever you look, it’s never been harder for them to keep their doors open. And don’t think the demise of Wiggle/CRC has made things easier. A lot of shops relied on getting better pricing and delivery from them than they could from official distributors and brands. Distributors and brands who are getting increasingly desperate to pressure them into minimum orders or long-term credit contracts that choked cash flow just can’t support. So if your local shop is one that you'd like to support, don’t just buy kit from them whenever you can, but do some promotion for them. Every shout out on social media about a job well done, a shop ride you’ve been on, positive reviews on consumer ratings sites, or just word of mouth recommendations is hugely helpful. Certainly, it's more help than some of them and their official trade body seem capable of anyway.

Over recent years, German brand Bosch has used its vast experience in consumer electronics and motorized tools to, erm, power into the e-bike motor segment. It’s built up an enviable reputation for some of the most punchy and reliable drive units you can buy and steadily improved less popular aspects like its clunky control units and displays. The Performance Line CX motor dates back to 2015, but the Gen 4 version I've been testing is the brand’s latest highly-refined, flagship, off-road system.

Going up against Bosch is a cycling component brand with a huge reputation for drivetrains that needs little introduction. Shimano has been manufacturing top-end, world-renowned, kit like Dura Ace and later XTR for over half a century and the Japanese brand was early into the e-bike motor game too. The familiar-looking EP801 here is its latest full-fat offering sharing the same form factor as its predecessor – the EP8. Don’t let that fool you though; the new model is a totally different beast to that less powerful and reliable motor.

Both CX and EP801 claim similar peak power and the same amount of torque, but both also feel different in the real world once tires hit dirt. I’ve recently clocked up loads of ride time on two of the best long-travel electric mountain bikes from Canyon – the brilliant Torque:ON and Strive:ON models (click the linked text for full reviews on both bikes) that each use rival models of the motors we're comparing here. Both are carbon-framed, gravity-focussed e-MTBs from the same design team and form a solid base to point out the strengths and weaknesses of each system. So Bosch Performance Line CX vs Shimano EP801 – which e-MTB motor is best?

1. Bosch CX vs Shimano EP801 overview

Bosch Performance Line CX

Pros

• Tons of power right the way through the cadence range
• Long overrun in Turbo mode aids cresting technical climbs
• eMTB mode offers a good balance of power and range
• Repairable outside warranty

Cons

• Long overrun makes wheelspins an issue
• Own brand Powertube batteries top out at 750Wh
• Powertubes are heavy for their energy density
• LED remote controller on alloy bikes is clunky
• Motor rattle while coasting on rough ground

Shimano EP801

Pros

• Natural and smooth ride feel
• Much more powerful than its EP801 predecessor
• Better sealing and heat management
• Very quiet while cruising along
• Third-party battery support for big capacity cells means a bigger range

Cons

• Clunk while coasting (noticeable on some bikes/motors and almost silent on others)
• Battery display increments are too vague and final bar can’t be trusted
• Can’t use previous generation batteries
• Unrepairable outside two-year warranty

2. Comparative motor specs

3. Battery and range

Both brands offer three battery capacities, although Shimano’s smallest one is only externally or rear carrier mounted. For most serious e-MTB riders, the 630Wh Shimano battery and the 625Wh or 750Wh Powertube will be the main options and how each battery is installed depends on bike brand’s individual set-up. Most full-fat bikes offer the ability to remove the cells for off-the-bike indoor charging and you’ll need this if you don’t have somewhere warmer to store and charge the bike as batteries don’t charge well/at all in the cold.

One quirk with EP801 is because the motor uses an all-new processor chip and CAN (controller area network) bus architecture, it’s not compatible with (identical looking) previous generation EP8 batteries. This means you need to be careful not to mix up batteries (like I did during a stage race) and it also renders old batteries obsolete if you update, replace or upgrade to the more powerful motor.

Outside of own-brand batteries, Shimano offers the serious advantage of allowing third-party manufacturers to provide power as well, something Canyon take full advantage of by offering its own 900Wh battery for both the Torque:On and shorter travel Spectral:ON models. Other brands like Merida also pack more cells into the same form factor as Shimano and up capacity to 750WH instead of 630Wh, and this aspect can be a useful tool to add value for manufacturers.

I managed huge ride times and huge climbing stats on Canyon’s 900Wh battery on the Torque:ON that far exceed what Bosch’s 750Wh can manage on any bike. This is a massive bonus if you want to ride large distances in remote terrain or simply smash out more laps. 

Bosch’s and Shimano’s batteries are pretty similar for the amount of power stored compared to many e-bike rivals – the 750Wh Powertube weighs 4.38kg so packs 171Wh/kg, while Shimano’s 630WH battery is 3.7kg and offers 170Wh/kg. 

This is what the stats say, and while I’ve not measured it accurately, my hunch from multiple rides and repeated experience riding around the Ard Rock Enduro course on various e-bikes is that a 630Wh Shimano battery will get you a bit further than the extra 5Wh might suggest – compared to Bosch’s similar 625Wh option.

4. Display, app and controls

Both brands have a multitude of displays and controllers for their e-bike systems but only a couple are really suitable for off-road riding.

Bosch’s top tube-mounted System Controller and bar-mounted Mini Controller (which Canyon uses for the Strive:On) is the brand’s slickest MTB solution. It uses a nice, rubber-protected display with five bars to represent the remaining charge between your legs (two colors within each power bar means 10 percent increments) and there’s the option to cycle through modes, or at a very neat and tidy push button controller next to the left grip.

This wireless Mini Controller doesn’t have any complicated cables cluttering up the bar and is also easy to reach while riding or hold to activate the well-positioned walk mode. Bosch also keeps the Strive:On’s rear stays tidy by using a wireless speed sensor on the rear wheel at the valve stem that negates the need for magnets on spokes or brake rotors.

If your frame is aluminum (or the bike brand doesn’t integrate the controller into the frame), you need to use at least Bosch’s LED remote to talk to the motor. This can be found on the Whyte E-160 I tested recently, and it’s much clunkier, can get damaged if you turn the bike upside for a trailside repair and is also in pole position to get smashed in a crash.

Bosch’s bar or stem-mounted Kiox displays are even more cumbersome and ripe for trail damage, but some riders will still want them to drill into stats and use for navigation while riding. Bosch’s system does a good job with maps and routes, whereas Shimano requires downloading a separate e-bike ride app to do navigation on top of the app that controls specific motor settings.

Shimano has long had one of the cleanest handlebar displays that provides all the information you’ll likely need in a really discreet form factor. Called STEPS E8000 and found on the Torque:ON, it can cycle through modes and display different windows like speed, distance, cadence and remaining range etc. With Bosch, you need the bigger Kiox display (or your phone) to see all this stuff. E8000 is basically like a little bike computer that doesn’t get in the way and can also store a couple of preset power templates to scroll through motor settings you set on the E-Tube app (Bosch’s CX can store four rider presets).

I’m a fan of Shimano’s display to check the remaining range for example, but even as small as it is, you can ditch it for a cleaner bar set up and just use the EM800 switch unit buttons to cycle between modes.

One big annoyance with Shimano’s display is it only shows battery life in 20 percent increments compared to Bosch’s 10 percent – and even finer battery percentages elsewhere. This would be a poor level of detail even if it was accurate, but what usually happens is once the power goes down to one bar is anyone’s guess – but the battery life remaining in that last bar definitely doesn’t last as long as the first four.

This is presumably due to the battery preserving some juice to power a light or Di2 kit, but it’s far worse and less predictable on every Shimano bike compared to every Bosch bike I’ve tested. Basically, you better be near the car park or your house running low on power on EP801 or you’ll have a long pedal on a heavy e-bike with no motor. Shimano really needs to swap these increments for a percentage as the remaining range on the display is also wildly inaccurate and always overestimates how much range is really left.

Both brands offer pretty easy to use apps that can do a wide range of tuning and tweaking in each mode. Shimano’s app can be very slow to connect, but you can make a real difference to the amount of punch and drive at the cranks by dialing up assistance and pushing the sliders all the way to the right. Whereas Bosch’s factory Turbo setting appears to give deliver a lot of torque and responsiveness right from the off.

5. Real-world performance

Let’s get some assumptions out of the way first. Bosch CX is known for being quieter than Shimano and if you listen to the forum chatter, it also absolutely trounces Shimano for sheer power. My experience doesn’t tally with this, and, boosting Shimano in the app (rather than requiring any dealer or manufacturer-level tweaking) can make a real difference so that real-world help actually feels remarkably similar. 

Whether each motor rattles or clunks is also a bit of a lottery, regardless of brand. While the Whyte E-160 mentioned earlier was almost silent, the Strive:ON’s internal CX rattle is more pronounced and louder when descending than the barely audible clatter on the Torque:ON’s EP801. 

I found Shimano’s motor is actually nearly silent when coasting unless there is a specific type of surface that vibrates it rather than an occasional sharp hit. And, in terms of motor whine, both are very similar too – Shimano’s motor is definitely quieter if you are just cruising along in Eco on the flat, but at full gas in Boost mode, it is perhaps marginally louder than CX.

Performance Line CX has a reputation for reaching peak power at lower cadences and with relatively little leg power input. This allows even unfit riders to reach the motor’s maximum assistance without too much effort while pedaling seated. Many worn-out smaller cassette cogs on Bosch bikes are a testament to CX’s ability to drag the rider along and, until recently, this was one of the most obvious advantages over EP8. 

I reckon EP801 is now very close in terms of max assistance (at my 85kg weight at least) right up to about 80rpm, which is where most riders will top out before pedaling feels very unnatural. Using the Shimano display to measure cadence, I found EP801 able to more or less keep up with Bosch while riding up steep fireroads with a pal who is within a kg or two of my weight. One other statistic to back up how much pokier the new EP801 is than before is Yeti rider, Ryan Gilchrist, winning a couple of uphill EDR-E power stages last season – which is the first time Shimano has won one on the world stage since e-bike enduro racing began.

Bosch’s power doesn’t need any reiterating and is always there itching to go (especially in Turbo), easy to access and does seem to have an advantage the faster you spin cranks. It’s simply not practical to spin much more than 90rpm or so on an MTB though because the suspension and chassis starts to bob so much you lose any power advantage (which kind of debunks Bosch’s claims about its latest lightweight SX motor, but that’s another story). I’m also far too old to be spinning over 100rpm off-road and looking like some kind of hamster on a wheel.

So, while you can possibly feel the Bosch power advantage when spinning fast twiddles up the steepest little sections to crest rooty or rocky climbs, this also might be a consequence of having slightly more overrun that keeps the bike flowing better – particularly in Turbo mode.

The EP801 does a far better job than the previous version in smoothing out choppy uneven pedaling, and there is just the right amount of overrun in Boost mode without losing the character of a very smooth and natural power delivery that feels like it matches what you put in yourself. Both motors are sensitive enough that it’s easy to modulate power even in the highest support modes, although Bosch’s CX can feel a little edgier in Turbo mode when power response first kicks in.

Two of the modes you might use the most, Shimano’s Trail and Bosch’s eMTB, have a different feel: Trail is more like a lower-powered smooth Boost mode, whereas eMTB feels much more responsive to matching rider inputs and giving you a real boost if you pedal hard and fast. The latter works brilliantly, saves battery and feels like it mirrors what you are doing really well, but can feel a tiny bit stop-start with power pulses on muddy technical climbs where traction comes and goes and cadence keeps changing.

In terms of motor friction and resistance, it’s hard to say which motor is best when the battery has died or turned off. The two Canyon bikes I back-to-backed have a different amount of travel and are also a different weight; neither has a terrible amount of noticeable drag when pedaling along once over the speed limit, but I reckon EP801 has marginally less resistance when pedaling with the bike switched off.

Finally, looking at walk modes – both do a good job and both are easy to reach and press. You can help control the bike’s speed and amount of pull by changing gear on the rear cassette on both, but if I was to pick a winner, I think the Shimano walk mode might be slightly quicker to turn on and smoother.

6. Reliability, future and waterproofing

While newer generation motors are smaller and lighter, the flipside is that internal bearing and component size can diminish, in turn lowering overall robustness. Shimano has flipped this script to some extent though as (so far at any rate) the EP801 is proving way more reliable in the wet UK climate where drive units get doused in water and slop most of the year. Reliability and sealing is way better and clearly visible in rubber-sealed cables, wiring and switches, and the magnesium casing also has improved heat management over the EP8. According to a couple of brands I’ve spoken to off the record about warranty issues, this is making a real difference in motors coming back for replacement too.

Bosch doesn’t need to prove anything though, as it has the best reputation for reliability in the e-MTB game and Shimano is still playing catch up in this regard and only time will tell.

Another consideration is Shimano’s 'no repair' policy means once you are outside the two-year warranty window you’ll be stumping out full money for a replacement motor (currently about $900 / £900). The Bosch motor, on the other hand, can be repaired in many places with genuine replacement parts available and fixes starting at a couple of hundred bucks/quid. This is a major advantage to long-term ownership although one or two places are popping up that offer to tinker with Shimano motors too.

Shimano has been tarnished by its old reputation on reliability, noise and grunt, but the EP801 is superior in every way – including the most noticeable one of power at all cadences in the real world. The brand should have done itself a favor and renamed this 20 percent more powerful motor EP9 or something as it really is that different.

Bosch’s CX simply gets on with it though and you can’t argue with the brand's proven power and reputation for reliability. Another big deal is what might happen when your two-year warranty runs out and how much harder it is to repair a Shimano motor. Yes. I’ve have seen first-hand many issues amongst friends where Shimano has replaced older motors for free and sometimes without any installation and fitting costs, but Bosch’s motor can be serviced and repaired at a growing number of e-motor specialists for a reasonable price – which is a major benefit.

7. Overall verdict

If asked 18 months ago about Bosch vs Shimano, I’d have answered Bosch in a heartbeat, but Shimano’s latest EP801 has totally shifted the goalposts. 

If you believe everything you read elsewhere, EP801 is still an outdated, clunky and noisy inferior product, but on the evidence here, I don’t think that’s fair. It’s certainly good enough that it shouldn’t inform buying decisions if everything else about a bike is right.

To answer the overall question of which motor is better, I think Bosch’s Performance CX system still edges it as a package, especially if you are limited by each brand’s own battery options. Basically, I’d take Bosch’s power, motor feel and it’s 750Wh battery over Shimano’s 630Wh any day of the week. 

But once you factor in larger battery options like Canyon’s 900Wh beast on the Torque:ON, it’s a no-brainer to go with EP801 if you want to do the biggest rides or just play out for longer. I didn’t feel any noticeable impact on ride quality or enjoyment with the long and heavy battery inside the Torque:ON, but not all bikes will wear the weight so well. That means it's always going to come down the bike’s individual merits as much as any motor. On aluminum bikes where Bosch’s controller unit can’t be built into the frame, Shimano’s bar-mounted display is also much cleaner, simpler and harder to damage than Kiox displays.

Both systems have advantages over each another, so which one you choose will ultimately depend on what you want. Overall though, both the latest Bosch and Shimano motors are excellent.

Downhill is in a tumultuous period, the last few years have seen more changes to the sport than there have been over the last couple of decades. New broadcasters, racing formats, evolving tracks, and demands on bikes and riders are higher than ever while purse strings are getting tighter. For better or worse, changes are inevitable, however until recently there has been one constant – Greg Minaar.

The 2024 downhill World Cup season also marks a big year of changes for Greg Minaar. After 16 years with the Santa Cruz Syndicate, Greg set off the downhill rumor mills with the announcement that he would be leaving the Syndicate. A month later Greg would sign with Norco Factory racing team in a three-year deal that will mark a new chapter in the GOAT’s career. 

They say a change is as good as the rest, so what's in store for the downhill legend? I recently sat down with Greg and chatted about the changes to downhill racing and his plans as captain of the Norco Factory Team.

There's a lot of change happening downhill at the moment, how do you feel these changes in organization and formats are affecting racing?

Yeah, so the change in format. I thought Warner Brothers did a great job of compromising with the riders. Riders wanted to push to have 60 riders in the final and adding that semi-final was a way they could get 60 riders into a semi-final and whittle it down to 30. They want to show a full run of a rider, if a rider crashes they want to make sure they've got that, and if a rider wins the race, they want to know what section they won it in. So that's important for TV. I don't know TV. I'm not a TV expert. Warner Brothers seems to know a little bit more about TV than most downhill racers and downhill organizers, so I think they know what they're doing there. So to me, it was a no-brainer to say if they think they need 30 riders to follow this whole race then that's where we should go. 

I think they didn't have a lot of time to have their first season putting on a World Cup. If you go back a little bit in World Cup racing, the UCI was never an event organizer. They were only there to host the events, to make sure they ran within the rules, doping control, and everything else. So then they were sanctioning the event, they weren't event organizers. So if you go back to the Grundig days when the World Cup was really big. Grundig was the organizer; they had an event company put on all the events. Grundig was the main sponsor, and then we lost Grundig. It went to Diesel and then came down to Nissan. Then when Nissan left there were no event organizers. So UCI took on mountain biking and put together a team within the UCI to put on events and host events. So we wouldn't have had World Cup racing if it wasn't for UCI. 

They managed to put together Red Bull and everything else and so for them, this was a chance to actually give the sport back to the event organizer and let them promote and push and do what they feel is right as event organizers to grow the sport. So that's some of the stuff that not many people know about or have spoken about. But that's how we've ended up where we are now.

How do you think the introduction of the semi-finalists changed racing?

It's made it tough. You definitely had fewer top riders at the after-party than before. Because you're so mentally and physically drained from that week. I think they've made some nice adjustments, moving the semi-final to Saturday or Friday and then having the final stand-alone. I think that's a good change. For the most part, I think they haven't done a bad job. It's interesting to see how this is gonna pan out after at least one year under the belt and experiencing what they've experienced. 

Speaking of changes, you've had some big ones. How are you settling into Norco?

The team changes have been so cool. Having built up so much experience over the years it's so nice to be able to share it and to put it into use to be able to help the team, build a bike that benefits the riders in many ways, and help set up the process of how we get to the races. How we test, how we plan, just the whole lot so it's been amazing. 

Obviously, I came in and there was this bike I hadn't ridden. I went and rode it and what impressed me the most about it was everything was isolated on this bike. For years you go through a bike and you can feel the bottom bracket is high. You need to adjust that but when you adjust the bottom bracket on a bike it rakes the fork out and adjusts the shock rate. So now you haven't just changed one thing, you've changed three things. Now you need to figure out which one of these three things you can deal with best or least and what's going to help you. On this Norco, if I want to change the shock rate I can just change the shock rate. I can go from a very progressive bike to a really linear bike by changing two pieces of it and everything else remains the same. I can change the head angle and only the head and that was impressive. This bike is built to race. 

So this is the culture of racing that's lacked in my career without a doubt. Oh god, this is amazing to me. This has given me another life. All I've ever wanted was people who understand racing, who want to race, and who want to build a race team that are pushing the boundaries on how we monitor the riders on track. How we can support the riders by giving feedback on time or lines, how we can support the mechanics and getting data off the bikes. We've got an in-house suspension division so they write the code for the data that's on the bike. So you know, we can feed that data back through to the guys so they can look at it. I mean it is super impressive. So that's exciting to me.

Is there anything you've experimented with that has surprised you or is it just fine-tuning what you already wanted from the bike?

Nothing really stood out like that much. Obviously going into a high pivot, I was a bit nervous. But then the engineer told me straightaway, he goes "Most people think all high pivots are the same and they're not. You can make a really shitty high pivot. How you place the high pivot, where that idler is, is super important in how the bike works”. I've also got a lot of adjustment in the idler, so we can adjust the idler and we've got four settings on that. So everything has been filled out, everything's got different adjustments, so we've gone through most of it. The only thing I haven't tried is the 29 rear. I've only ridden the mullet and the mullet’s been really good. So next week I'm off to Portugal and going to test the 29, that's one of the main things to test.

Do you think there will be a big difference between the mullet and the 29er?

I don't know. I don't know. One thing is for sure these guys don’t mess about, it's like time, data, rider feedback, and decision. It's not like, oh, we think it's good here maybe. It's clean-cut, is it better or not?

Everything's got numbers.

Yes, everything has numbers. And it's a very simple process and then that's how we ended up with Fox. You know, we had to decide what suspension to go on and of course, I've been with Fox for many years and Norco had been with RockShox for many years. So the bike when I first rode it I never had it set up. They had set up the bike, the spring rate, the shock settings and it was like here is a bike we think is very close to what you're used to and then we'll work from there, which never happens. But they've got a fork down, they've got the shock down, and they've got a team around data building this bike so they're super ready.

Once I had gotten far enough in the testing, I went back to the Fox fork and had a different time and I felt like handing was just a little quicker. I could get the bike to maneuver and bounce out to a wider line, set up a lot easier, and just as stable. So Adrian the head of engineering says this is quite clear. We have enough time to adjust any suspension. We can manipulate anything through different cartridges and different chip stacks. The one thing we can't do is rebuild a chassis. So we went with Fox and I was like cool there we go. Simple.

What's the plan for next season? Win a World Cup right? 

Yeah, I feel ready. I had a good off-season of training. I've been really busy but that's okay, it probably kept me out of the pub as much as I normally am. So that's cool. Jokes aside, I feel really good. I'm excited to go race.

Last season you looked solid on the bike, it was just bad luck after bad luck after bad luck. Are you racing the full season?

I'm racing full thing. There was lots of pressure around retiring and I got to Fort William, a track I know I can ride well on and I was ready for. We got to the top of the hill and we didn't have the mudguard for the bike. We didn't have the rain visor, which I put out ready to go and I'm thinking this is World Champs here.

So I had Peaty running around trying to get stuff because somehow he was up the top and thankfully he managed to pull stuff together. I look and I've got three minutes to go and I don't have a bike so I went and stood in the start gate with my goggles on just looking down the track, just trying to stay calm and focused. 

About 20 to 30 seconds before my run starts I get passed my bike. And I'm like, okay let's just try and go. It’s no way to start a downhill race when you get your bike 30 seconds before the start. I'm pretty sure that didn't happen to Charlie Hatton when he was setting off. But anyway, that pissed me off. Obviously, I had more drama further down the track but that's beside the point. 

It's World Champs, you've got to be prepared. I've given it everything to be prepared. But there's another half that wasn't and unfortunately, that was out of my control. 

This season, no dramas.

Preparation is key here. Piss-poor preparation equals piss-poor performance or something along those lines. I mean, it's exactly what 2023 was.

What are you planning for the next season? So 2025?

Well, I've got the option to ride if I want to. To be honest, I don't think I'll be racing in '25. Not World Cups. I'd love to do events like Mega Avalanche and all these other things and Rampage – I’m just kidding about Rampage, but there's so much mountain biking to be done so I don't know if I'll be racing. I highly doubt I will be racing World Cups but I will continue directing this team and continue to make sure that we have one of the best teams in the world. I really feel once we can show how far we've pushed on the technical side and what we can give riders, I think it will make it quite an attractive place for riders to want to be and the current riders will be able to step up to the next level. So I really feel like '25 and '26 are gonna be exciting years of racing, but it's gonna be racing teams and not myself racing the World Cup.

Who's on the Norco team?

Kirk McDowall, who's one of the engineers who's been given an opportunity to race World Cups. He had a good race in Mont Saint Anne last year and so Norco decided, well, let's give him a shot at racing. So he's on the team. Then we've got Lucas Cruz, who was on the team last year, and Gracie. She is probably going to do really good things, I've no doubt she's going to be on that podium quite a few times this year. 

How many World Cups would you have to win this year to persuade you not to retire next year?

Oh, that's probably a question my wife wouldn't want to hear. I think she wanted to live a normal life, not a racer life. If I won three or four world cups this year, then I'd have to race again.

Have you ever dreamt of what the ultimate money-is-no-object, adventure-ready camper van might look like? Then dream no more because Redtail Overland, the Boulder, Colorado-based luxury van conversion company might have just created the best camper van I've ever seen. However, starting at $500,000 (yes, that is the correct amount of zeroes) for its Skyloft Van, it means you'll likely need a lottery win to get one.

Redtail Overland starts with a Mercedes-Benz Sprinter 144 and it's then transformed into the Skyloft Van ready and rigged out for the best mountain bike and off-road adventures. It features its patented and exclusive, climate-controlled, carbon fiber Skyloft rooftop camper, which modestly is referred to as just an added "upstairs".  

The Skyloft Van is way more than just a standard rooftop camper addition though, as well as the impressively spacious upstairs, Redtail also outfits the entire van, inside and out, with what is described as "the most advanced systems and premium components money can buy or skilled hands can craft". 

Looking more like a luxury yacht inside rather than a van, it comes with that equally hefty price tag. Redtail Overland says its Skyloft Van takes its custom van conversions to "ultra-luxury and ruggedly capable heights". So just what do you get in this ultimate off-road living set-up, I had a look at the details and hoped my editor was ready to give the go-ahead on ordering is as the new Bike Perfect team van, ready for Red Bull Hardline perhaps?!?

Exterior details

The first thing I was keen to know, is just how many mountain bikes it'll carry, and the initial answer on the stock spec build is a slightly disappointing two. They are mounted on One-Up bike racks on the rear door. 

However, customization is the name of the game with Redtail Overland and that 'garage' space which is underneath the living/sleeping area, is tall enough to add a pull-out bike platform if desired. This will up the bike count to at least four, which is also the capacity it's designed to sleep. 

There is also a rear storage box (ideal as a tool chest) and an air compressor, so for tinkering with mountain bikes, the Skyloft Van is sorted. Further customization could easily allow a workstand or tool tray to be added in the rear area too.

Other noteworthy additions that come as standard are front and rear bumper winches that will make owners of the Skyloft instantly popular should lesser vans find themselves stuck and need a tow. There is also an Owl Vans rear tire carrier, ladder and electric retracting side steps. If you're hosting the post-laps beers [though cocktails might be more appropriate here – Ed], then the self-supporting motorized awning with wind sensor, Bluetooth control and LED lighting has you 'covered'.

Interior details

Things get ramped up inside the van, and Redtail Overland says its design solves the headache that many van conversions can struggle with – finding enough space to fit everything in. By moving the main sleeping area upstairs they add that you'll no longer have to compromise your amenities to accommodate family, friends or gear. 

Every Skyloft Van comes with two climate-controlled sleeping zones, a heated, enclosed wet bath, a full galley, a large dining area, loads of storage and four secure automotive seats for safe travel.

The Skyloft rooftop is perhaps the highlight here and is a fully insulated ultra-strong and lightweight carbon fiber sleeping space, but also way more. The spacious interior features a super plush mattress imported from Germany, large double-pane windows, heat and AC on a dedicated thermostat, dimmable lighting, USB and power outlets, a fan and room to leave your bedding and pillows when closed. 

The elevated rear lounge and secondary sleep area are perfect for dinner with a view or a 'Netflix and chill' session watching the latest must-watch series on the swivel mount TV. There is a large dining table which seats four and it can be removed for even more room.

If you are working on the go, there is an additional desk space too and the optional Starlink In-Motion satellite means you'll always have access to the internet and emails. You're unlikely to ever run out of power as there is a 14KW automotive-grade lithium battery bank, a 3,200W inverter that will even charge e-MTB batteries, and there's 330W of solar power.

You can watch a walkaround overview below and find all the fine details at Redtailoverland.com and look out for the Bike Perfect branded Redland Overland 'Skyloft Van', maybe coming soon – shotgun the Skyloft!

Obviously, if you’re Jenny Rissveds or Viktor Koretsky, who both probably lost World Cup XCO races last week due to mechanicals, then you can legitimately blame the bike. In practically every other situation I’ve been in though, a gifted rider on a crap mountain bike will still beat a less skilled/fit one on a better mountain bike. 

The power to propel more weight faster. The lungs to suck a summit down towards them faster than most folks get to a horizon on the flat. The body awareness and reactions to lean a slippery tire harder through turns or keep it connected on climbs. The nonchalant hop and pop to clear roots and rocks that poor suspension would have choked on. The confidence to really put the catch in catch berms, so bad brakes don’t matter. I’m sure you could go on yourself with specific examples and actual rider names whether that’s your favorite YouTube steeze artiste or the local hero that makes you feel ‘less’ on every ride.

Gearing up

The weird thing is we all know this deep down, but what do most of us do about it? We try and buy our way around it. And not by paying for a coach to write us a personalized training plan or pick apart our bad cornering habits. No, we spend our cash on the latest tire with the must-have compound. The best MTB wheels that save us a couple of hundred grams. Swapping aluminum for carbon fiber or trading up on suspension travel to cover up a lack of skill. 

And let’s be very honest here, the part I play in this is basically a drug pusher. Telling you how much better your ride will be if you snort up the trail via one less degree of head angle. How mainlining a DH with this new damper will be the biggest rush ever. “It’s what the pros use maaaate, you’d be mad not to try it”, “just give it a go at a demo day, I promise you won’t get hooked” etc.

Because I’m probably the very worst example of this delusional state of denial. After all, I’ve made looking for things to compensate for my lack of skill and fitness into a career for the best part of thirty years. For example, I’ve officially spent most of this week back-to-backing different combinations of cross-country rubber ready to update our XC tires buyers guide. The real driving force is to find a pairing that'll help me keep the ever-faster Thursday Night Fight Club crew in sight though. Either way, it's so far involved days of back-and-forth tire fitting, pumping to matching pressures, and wheel swapping in the workshop. Then hours and hours of comparative testing trying to determine tiny vector changes in grip, rolling speed, and flow that could probably all be bracketed within a few percent. That included Wednesday morning spent looping around the local trails from the van with some local speed freaks and that's when the silliness of where we place our 'upgrading' priorities really became clear.

What goes up must come down

Can you imagine if I’d spent that same amount of time and attention practicing how to go around those corners faster regardless of what was connecting me to the trail. How much easier the climbs back up would have been if I’d invested workshop hours in waving some weights around instead. Or some intensive intervals, not intensive track pumping?

What made this even more obvious is that we were joined by a couple of local XC racers who were fresh from the first XC Nationals round the previous weekend. They were keen to work out the ultimate tire choice for the next round by joining in our swap shop and their feedback was really interesting and useful. The real take home for me though is what they were focusing on for improvement. Given that one of them trains pro tour riders and Olympians for a living, I’m sure they were right to be confident that they could raise their wattage by the required amount to be competitive if they devoted the next 12 weeks to it. However, their confidence and speed, on technical sections was definitely not competitive, but they didn’t seem to see that as the obvious easy gain to work on. 

This was made even more apparent by the fact that we also had local racer Amy Henchoz with us. She started riding/walking with our local riding group during lockdown, but quickly became one of the top XC and XCM riders in the country. Complete with the National Marathon champ jersey and a place at the Marathon World Championships to match. Her determined rise from hours on an exercise bike in the bowels of an Indian Ocean survey ship (seriously, her biography is going to be brilliant), to the top of podiums was impressive. However, the biggest sea change in her speed was the three hours she spent skills training with Sam Copp in the Forest of Dean. That turned her from the one we waited nervously for at the bottom of descents to see if she’d survived, to a rider who I struggled to keep in sight on downhill runs. That seems like a very high-value investment in terms of speed gain compared to a new carbon handlebar.

On the flipside, I’m sure there are plenty of very gifted gravity riders out there who’d be even quicker to the bottom if they put some time into improving their fitness so they weren’t gassed halfway down. 

Practice what someone else preaches

But then the realistic truth is that most of us are pretty damn tired and time-crunched from #life in general already. That means a bit of review reading and online shopping on the sofa is a lot easier in terms of a quick fix than getting up an hour earlier to train. And that just riding how we always do and wondering why we don’t get better is an easier habit to fall into rather than hitting the same corner over and over again like a chained Bulgarian bear.

I’m certainly not suggesting that you mug off having fun on your mountain bike in favor of a monastic lifestyle of punishment and penitence. And please don’t stop reading reviews and being excited about the new gear my Bike Perfect colleagues and I keep trying to push your way either, because I really don’t want to go straight and get a proper job after all this time. Not least because I don’t have any real skills beyond being able to get incredible anal about tiny differences between components and performance in a way that a pea-sensing, multi-mattress surfing princess would roll her eyes at.

I’d definitely give Sean Fishpool’s excellent “I didn’t realize I’d been making these three common MTB riding mistakes for 25 years, but here's how I fixed them” feature a read to see just how much a bit of coaching can unlock way more speed and confidence than components can. And you never know, I might even get around to practicing what I preach for once and head for the Forest of Dean to swap decades of frustration for some actual progress myself by practicing what someone else preaches. 

It’ll obviously take me ages to decide what bike and what kit to take down for the lesson beforehand though, rather than spending that time actually improving the real issue: Myself! 

Testing bikes for a living has taught me a huge amount about what really matters if you want to get maximum fun and performance out of your gravel bike. If you pick carefully, the important things don’t have to cost a fortune either. So here are my top five essential elements of the best budget gravel/all-road bikes.

1. Big tire space 

I’ve ridden some really horrible, clunky frames that feel and look like they’re made from scaffold pipes. Stick high volume tires on them though and you’d be amazed how much better they ride. Big tire space also means you can fit mudguards and/or ride through mud without getting clogged up. That’s particularly important if you’ll also be using your bike for commuting or daily driver duties.

40mm tire clearance should be seen as the minimum, but if you can find a cheap bike that can take a 50mm tire, then having that option is fantastic.

2. Carbon fork

I know, I know, carbon sounds like a pretty spendy thing to be looking for on a ‘budget’ gravel bike. However, if you shop carefully you can get carbon forks on bikes from £600 upwards and they make a massive difference. Not so much the weight they save compared to alloy and steel forks, but the difference in ride quality. So if you can possibly stretch your budget to get some black fiber between your wheel and your frame it matters way more than the quality of the other components. 

Oh and on the subject of steel forks – avoid them at all costs if you can, or your hands, wrists and shoulders will end up hating you after every ride.

3. Tubeless rims

You’ll sometimes need to do a bit of sleuthing to find out what is and what isn’t a tubeless rim. It’s definitely worth rummaging around in the depths of an online spreadsheet though, just to be sure that your hoops will be happy holding onto your tires without the need to run an inner tube. That’s because swapping an inner tube for tire sealant not only plugs punctures before you even know you’ve got them, it also lets you run lower pressures for a smoother, safer ride.

Just to be clear, don’t expect tubeless tires and sealant on a budget bike, you’ll have to add those yourself later. Just having the rims ready to go is a big deal though, so well worth looking for.

4. Through-axles

Your cheap bike will almost certainly come with cheap, heavy wheels which slow down acceleration and deaden the ride vibe. That makes upgrading to some lighter, livelier wheels one of the best ways to improve your ride. However, most decent quality gravel wheels now use 12mm through-axles that screw into the frame and fork. This also makes them more secure over rough ground than QR skewers.

However, if do you get a bike with old-school QR skewers (thin skinny steel rods with a flip-over lever on the end), there’s no way to use bolt-through wheels with the frame or forks. That means upgrading will be harder (but not impossible) and the wheels won’t be as secure either.

5. Hydraulic disc brakes

Even if you’re buying direct, then you’ll be north of four figures before hydraulic disc brakes are on the menu rather than cable-pull versions. So while, you're unlikely to find them on the cheapest bikes, it's worth spending a bit more for hydraulics if you can.

Using oil rather than wires to actuate the brake calipers gives a more direct feel at the lever and more power as a result. Because the oil has a reservoir, they top up automatically as pads wear and there are no cables to seize up either. That means less adjustment and servicing to worry about, especially when it’s wet.

I recently got the chance to visit Fox at its Californian headquarters as part of the press event for the release of its new GRIP damper range. As you would expect, the Scotts Valley HQ has offices and function rooms loaded with fancy water machines and walls adorned with retro Fox suspension and history, however downstairs is where all the interesting stuff happens. Alongside the kitted-out workshop, Fox houses some of its product development testing facilities. A component torture chamber filled with all manner of odd contraptions for testing suspension, wheels, and other components.

Fox’s Test Lab Manager, Kurt Siever, showed me around and explained what some of the machines were up to.

If you think you would be happier not knowing how much your suspension fork might be flexing while riding, maybe skip the below video. 

The testing facilities are spread over two rooms, both crammed with many machines bending, twisting, and cycling through specific movements or actions. This isn’t Fox’s only testing facility, regulatory ISO testing which involves large quantities of fatigue testing is generally performed in Taiwan. That frees up more time for development testing at the Scotts Valley and Canadian labs, with the Canadians focusing mostly on wheels and wheel impact testing.

It's a flurry of activity with the suspension testing machines hard at work analyzing all aspects of suspension. Depending on the tests, these machines can run for days carrying out millions of cycles on a product. Not only are all the machines performing different tasks but the bank of computers in the middle of the room is busy harvesting around 1,000 data points per second.

One of the most interesting tests was the Downieville Test. The test team strapped a load of strain gauges and telemetry to a bike and sent one of the engineers down a descent at Downieville. The test rig then uses the resulting data to cycle a suspension fork for 100 hours, repeating the same trail profile to replicate around six months of use. Every now and then the process will stop and the machine will slowly cycle through the fork stroke to analyze the condition of the damper. They had a similar test being performed on a shock too, tracking a six-minute segment using the profile from a local trail. The shock was also side-loaded with a 25lb weight to pull it out of the axis and increase wear during the test. 

Although the torsional testing are most interesting to watch, Fox is also benchmarking all manner of other variables. Experiments with different tubes, oils, seals, and bushings are all documented in order to find the best performance. Fox has even tested inverted fork concepts on this machine, they worked decent although didn't perform as well on the torsion tests.

It feels a bit like organized chaos with everything happening around you and it sounds like it can get pretty messy sometimes. Whether it’s spraying forks and shocks with calibrated dirt to test seals or finding oil all over the floor in the morning after something has gone pop in the night.

Compliance was a major consideration during the development of Race Face’s Era wheelset and although most of the testing is performed in BC, there was some wheel testing happening here too. This machine clamps the hub and applies lateral force to the wheel to test the compliance of a rim. Wheel ride feel is very subjective but this machine can be used to back up real-world testing with hard data.

The second room houses the heavier machines. Some of these are mounted on cement blocks and perform sensitive tests with each rig isolated to eliminate crosstalk from the other machines. There’s also the excitingly nicknamed “Mega Impactor” which is used to test forks to destruction, ensuring that if a fork does fail on the trail it's not going to separate into many pieces and make a bad crash even worse.

Fox is developing new MTB products, and the machinery used to test them is becoming increasingly advanced too. As all the shiny new machines are hard at work, several older testing tools are sitting at the side. The old wheel impact testers were basic gravity-driven rigs and involved having a technician yank the stick out and get out of the way. These have now been replaced by more accurate, repeatable, although less exciting, computerized impact testers. 

There are also a couple of wheel-testing machines. The older rig is a basic spinning drum, and although it's 15 years old, it's still used to perform basic initial benchmark tests. The new machine is far more sophisticated, driven by a chain and rocking back and forth to imitate sprinting and cornering, failures to carbon rims are said to be very similar to the type of failures from actual riding.

He's tested a ton of kit that could turn your current mountain bike into your dream ride, but how do you decide which kit to buy, or whether you even need it all? Here’s what forty years of riding over a quarter of a century of professional kit testing has taught our reviewer-in-chief, Guy Kesteven, about MTB upgrading.

1. Do you really need new?

Before you start shopping, do you really need new stuff? Refreshing existing parts is much cheaper than replacing them and of course, it's far less harmful to the environment too. Here are the key areas where a refresh can work wonders...

• Wheels: That stiff and sticky suspension and those sluggish wheels might be just a set of fresh, premium bearings away from feeling fantastic again.
• Brakes: Lots of people waste money replacing brakes that could feel brand new with a simple service. Or be powered up with bigger rotors or different pads for a fraction of the cost of a complete new bike. 
• Suspension: Getting a suspension service with a custom tune will often make your fork and shock work better than brand new too. 
• Set up: Be sure you’ve tried all the possible adjustments with suspension, tire pressure, handlebar and saddle position. I often find that what seems like core component problems can actually be solved by twiddling damper dial, playing with PSI, or shifting contact points slightly.

2. See the whole system

Still convinced you need to upgrade? OK, then make sure you look at the whole system that’s creating the symptoms you’re trying to fix. 

• Painful hands or spikey sensations as usually a grip or suspension issue. They could come from tire pressure, tire carcass, wheel stiffness, or suspension settings. 
• I’ve had horrible rigid handlebars (cheap and expensive ones) ruin an otherwise brilliant bike in a test before. 
• I’ve lost track of the number of times unsuitable – too heavy/sticky/fragile/sketchy, etc. – tires have ruined the ride of a bike too.
• Most of all, be honest about the riding you’re really doing and the riding you’re going to do. Buy the kit you actually need, not what your heroes ride. To be sure, read our reviews for recommendations of what gear will or won’t suit you rather than just skim reading the ratings.

3. Try before you buy

Even if you start cheap, switching every part of the ‘system’ to see what makes a difference is going to get expensive quickly. Especially if a change actually makes things worse rather than better.

That’s when swapping parts with friends or friendly local shops with demo parts can be a super useful way to try different options without paying for them.

• Demo days are also a great way to try different gear and brake systems back to back while pretending you’re interested in buying a new bike. I didn’t tell you to do that though.
• Trial potential upgrades on your own bike if you can though, as otherwise their individual performance will get lost in the overall experience of a different ride.
• If putting your bike on a diet is part of the upgrade plan, then (wherever possible) weigh the components you were thinking of upgrading to. Or find reviews with actual weights not claimed weights or ones that just so happen to be the same as manufacturer's numbers. Comparing those numbers to the self-weighed weights of the kit you already have might well be a surprise. While the scales never lie, marketing departments and lazy reviews often do.

4. Start cheap

Nobody is arguing that those new all-gold Fox Factory forks look as fancy as hell – and that’s valid enough reason to upgrade for some riders. However, if you want increased function for your financial investment don’t waste money you don’t have to by leapfrogging cheap fixes.

• I’m not just talking about functionally buying identical Fox Performance Elite forks for less money either. While premium tires can seem expensive, the difference they can make to overall performance and ride character is incredible. At which point an $80 Pirelli suddenly seems a bargain compared to dropping a $1,339 on a Fox 36 Grip X2 and then choking it with the wrong rubber.
• Talking of rubber, turning your existing tires tubeless if they – and the rims – are compatible is almost certainly the best value upgrade in terms of ride improvement and survival.
• Grips, brake pads and even the chain lube you use can also make a genuine difference to performance for comparative pocket money compared to headline components. 

5. Measure twice, buy once

Before you press the 'buy' button on anything, be sure that you’re buying the right sized or right fitment part for your bike. Especially if there are loads of potential options or you’re buying sale stock when the biggest discounts are generally on the freakiest shapes and sizes.

• Seatpost, stem and handlebar diameters are the obvious dimensions of doom. Don’t forget to check the maximum insertion depth or stroke length of dropper you can fit between your butt and the bike though.
• Don’t assume all SRAM cassettes will fit on all SRAM-compatible freehubs or Shimano on Shimano as there are actually three types of freehubs. To really confuse matters, cheap cassettes from both brands sit on the same freehub, but neither of the brand's expensive options play nicely together.
• Before you think an extra long fork will make you into the next Loic Bruni, check that your frame warranty can handle more travel than it came fitted with. And even if does, don’t forget you might be about to ruin the handling of your bike by messing with all the angles.
• If it's a shock you’re switching then it’s even more complex. Not only are dimensions and stroke length, which come in imperial and metric options crucial. Conventional or trunnion mounting style, air or coil spring, inline, or piggyback, or just the adjuster and/or fill valve position can all make a shock incompatible with your bike. Some bikes need very specific damping tunes to work well with their ‘kinematics’ (basically the suspension geometry) too.
• Be careful listening to ‘experts’ on MTB forums about ‘overstroking’ bikes with longer shocks or fitting aftermarket linkages either as I’ve seen more frames broken that way than any other. 

Flying off drops, sending jumps, clattering through rock gardens, ripping turns and charging climbs is brilliant fun, but it’s really hard on your bike. It doesn’t take long for a little issue to become a big problem if you don’t get it sorted out properly and professionally straight away. Here’s our guide to the six most common health problems your mountain bike is likely to have, how to identify them and how to put things right.

1. Broken brakes

• If your brakes are not stopping you properly, then you definitely need to stop riding and get your bike booked in for a checkover.
• If your hydraulic brakes are pulling too close to the bar for comfort then they probably need a ‘bleed’ to remove air from the system.
• If there’s lots of noise but you’re not stopping, you might have worn your brake pads out so they will need replacing.
• Sticky pistons in levers or calipers can make disc brakes drag after you’ve pulled them. They can be serviced at home, but if you're unsure, head to your local bike shop.
• Rusty cables will ruin the feel of mechanical disc brakes and rim brakes, so fit a new inner cable.

2. Grinding gears

• If your chain is grinding and clicking rather than sitting quietly in gear then your ‘indexing’ might need adjusting to get your transmission back on track.
• It might be your gear hanger that's bent though, so double check that's straight before messing with your mech.
• If the chain is lined up fine but keeps slipping and skipping on the cogs then something – or everything is worn. If you’re lucky, a fresh chain might solve things, but if you’ve left it too long and worn the parts too badly, then you might need a new chainring and cassette (rear cogs) as well.

3. Loose bits

• If you’ve tightened your wheel axles and there’s still a clunk or a wobble when you pick up your bike or give it a wiggle, then it’s probably a bearing somewhere that’s loose or just plain dead.
• Suspension pivot bearings will clunk if you lift the bike up a little. Put your finger on each one in turn to feel which are loose and if they can’t be tightened, then it’s time to replace. Don’t leave things like this either or that little bit of wobble will soon ruin your frame – forever!
• Crank, pedal or wheel bearings can feel stiff to turn, wobble sideways or just sound ‘dry’ or ‘hollow’. If they’re not silky smooth and quiet though it’s time for a service and probably some replacement parts.
• If there’s stiffness or a wobble in your steering then it’s your headset bearings having a headache. Sometimes that can be solved with a simple top cap tension adjustment but otherwise, get it serviced/swapped before you crack your frame.

4. Dead suspension

• If you actually read the instructions for your suspension you’d see many brands suggest servicing every 10-20 hours of riding. I don’t know anyone but pro racers who do that though, so your springy bits are probably suffering more than you realize.
• If it feels like you left the lockout on over bumps then your seals are probably dry and your lubricating oil is dirty. Self-servicing this stuff is actually pretty easy if you’ve got the right tools and lots of patience, but keeping everything clean and going slow is crucial. As always with tool time if you're not 100 percent confident then get it checked in with a pro.
• Bouncing around like a rubber ball? Sounds like your rebound damper has lost control. Wrist-breaking spikes on sudden impacts? That’s your compression damper or bushings feeling unwell. Either way, it’s time to book in with a suspension specialist for a check and refresh.

5. Droopy dropper

• Don’t forget that your dropper post is a just sliding tube with a simple seal to stop water and grit getting in. So if the post is sticky or glitchy, then just a quick unscrew, wipe down and relube can work wonders if you follow the instructions carefully. 
• Moving the post can also cause issues with cable tension, so give your control lines a wiggle to check there’s not an easy fix there.
• The RockShox Reverb is famous for getting a bit soggy at the top of the stroke if it gets a bubble in its hydraulics. There’s an easy invert and button press trick that you can Google to buy yourself some time, but get a proper bleed done to sort it properly.
• Wired dropper posts can also bounce if they get a cartridge issue but they tend to have more issues with their control cables. 
• Sometimes the cable can get unhooked from the operating mechanism at the base of the post – which is easy to solve. 
• Another common issue is that the cable has got crushed or bent enough to stop running smoothly, which is an easy or awkward fix – depending on the way it routes through the frame. 
• Sometimes the post can be pushed too far down in the frame and the mechanism itself snaps though which is only fixable if you can find spares. 

6. Wobbly wheels

• A few years ago, bending wheels, ruining rims and snapping spokes was a monthly occurrence or more if you were riding hard. Thankfully, wheels are far tougher than now so they’re the last on our health check list. Disc brakes mean you can run wheels with a small wobble or dent that would have been impossible to tolerate with rim brakes.
• Serious alloy rim dings need carefully bending back into shape to keep tubeless tires safe when cornering. 
• Any leaks in a carbon rim could mean a crack that’s ticking like a time bomb ready to explode at the next serious slam.
• Loose, bent or snapped spokes also need replacing or re-tensioning as soon as possible before the surviving spokes get overstressed and the whole wheel collapses. 

Former World Champion turned MTB coach extraordinaire, Katy Curd, laughs her head off as she tries to take a berm like I do. “I’m going to fall off,” she cries, arms rigid and body leaning the wrong way into the corner.

I’d always known that my front wheel wandered around on berms, and that at best I wafted from corner to corner, rather than flicked. Turns out I’d been riding back to front all this time, leaning with the bike instead of keeping the body upright and getting the bike over.

It wasn’t the only thing that I was doing completely wrong. Over two afternoons, Katy patiently took time on the pump track, on slabby drops, and berms and rollers, unpicked years of bad habits, my misinterpreted ideas, or just no habits, and wove new threads of technique through all of them. 

This rocked my world and made me excited for the year ahead in a way that no skills sessions or watching YouTube videos have done before. These were small steps, for sure, but important ones. You might look at the photos and wonder just how bad I must have been before, but trust me, these felt like foundations that I could really build upon.

Here’s what I found out...

Katy’s coaching approach

Not surprisingly, Katy is evangelical about the value of real-life coaching compared with videos or how-to articles. Partly because some online techniques are open to misinterpretation (or just plain wrong), and partly because a talented coaching eye can troubleshoot in a way that not even the most patient buddy can. 

If you tell Katy you’ll want to learn drops or jumps, she’ll warn you that she may need to take you back to fundamentals of body position and movement on the bike first… and for my riding, this was exactly what I wanted to hear.

Mountain biking has been my happy place since the '90s, but I’m still a midpack XC rider with a distinct lack of flow;  and a rookie trail center rider who clams up on anything that can’t be rolled over. I wanted to fix that.

I explained to Katy that I’d done a couple of jumps & drops group coaching sessions locally, and watched the usual videos, but I just ended up not knowing why things were or weren’t working. 

“Really small things can block – or unlock – a technique and most riders aren’t that great at working out exactly what their bodies are doing", Katy opines. “Obviously a coach can help with that. And my view is that once you’ve got the foundations of body position and movement in place, then everything else builds on from that.”

Needless to say, I was not unhappy to start small at the pump track and the skills area at the excellent Forest of Dean Cycle Centre to get some of those foundations sorted. 

Here are a few of the things I discovered I’d almost literally been doing back to front. If you’ve been riding a while you might roll your eyes at the obviousness of these. But if you can’t quite put your finger on why things don’t have the flow and control you want, maybe they’ll help you too – and maybe they’ll even encourage you to seek out a coach. 

Problem 1: I was leaning the wrong way on berms

There are lots of techniques in the MTB cornering toolkit, including different ones for different scenarios. But my lean-in, arms-stiff approach on berms wasn’t going to work for any scenario, and was definitely costing all my flow and speed.

I think I knew that to maximise grip and turning speed on berms, you need to lean your bike, rather than steer with your handlebars. But the crucial thing I was doing wrong was leaning my body with the bike, like a road rider. I needed to keep my body more upright, and lean the bike. 

“When you decouple the bike from the body, you can keep the body’s weight over the tires and make the most of the grippy side knobs. Whereas if you lean out with your body, at some point there’s not going to be enough grip from the tires and that’s when you wipe out,” Katy explained.

I couldn’t believe what a difference it made to the grip, and the way it also unlocked the ability to steer with the back of the bike, another one of the themes that Katy was teaching. It let me flick between berms faster – because I was mostly moving the bike, not my whole body – and also control the line better, because I had a useful amount of weight over the front of the bike.

Main takeaway: Decoupling the bike from the body unlocked grip, flow, and the ability to steer from the knees and hips

Problem 2: I was reaching away from drops, not into them

“Don’t ride drops like you’re on a '90s hardtail,” said Katy. Which was unfortunate because my limited skills peaked in the 1990s on a hardtail, when stems were long and super-low, and seatposts were high and rigid, so you had little choice but to stretch out and get over the back wheel if you didn't want to get pitched over the bars on the steep stuff.

“Your natural reaction when you come to a drop is to lean back, and to get your head and shoulders high, away from the danger. That tends to mean that as you go off the lip your body just gets sucked in the direction the bike wants to go. 

“But if you bend your arms and get your chest low over the cockpit, you’ve got the freedom to control the arc the bike takes through the air. That’s often by pushing the arms straight out in front at chin height, to keep the front wheel up and clear ground below; or by deliberately pushing the bars down to minimize your airtime.”

I watched the first videos Katy took of me and it was really clear – as I approached the drop, my upper body would unconsciously raise up and back, I guess out of fear that I was going to go over the bars on the drop. 

One of the many great things about having a coach was trusting them. Mainly there was almost no chance of going over the bars if you had a little speed (not much was needed for the 2ft drops I was doing, as it turned out) and a little deliberate control of where the bike was going.

All of a sudden, I was on a route to unlocking foundations on the small stuff that might one day carry me through bigger stuff.

Main takeaway: Low and in control is much better than high and scared

Problem3 : I was way too passive about drops

My approach to mild drops and tech has only ever been ‘hold on and try not to screw up’ (and keep both wheels on the ground wherever possible). If I did get into the air, I thought I should just try to somehow float with the bike. ie, it was all very passive.

This might not be rocket science for you, but Katy taught me not only to use arm movement to take control of the arc of the front of the bike as it tackled the drop, but also to use a bit of a heel swing to control the direction of the back of the bike.

I was a long way from perfecting it, but I was amazed at how it started to make the drops seem smaller, smoother and more stable. 

On a steep slab slope, as the bike crested the lip, pushing the bent arms down briskly brought the front wheel into reassuring contact with the slope, and pivoting the heels down brought the back wheel down deliberately too, instead of letting it continue into space. There was just a reassuring ba-dum as the front and back wheels made positive contact, and this was a style we used on smaller drops as well as slopes.

On slightly bigger drops, or if I wanted to clear a bit of distance, I would need to push forward with my arms before the front wheel left the ground, and tried to pivot the heels forward to encourage the back of the bike to follow the same line rather than dropping. The deliberate momentum of the body movements seemed almost as important as the final position itself, and gave a useful tautness to the flow of the bike through the air.

On this move, my hands were nowhere near as high as they should have been and my chest nowhere near as low, but it still made the landings feel smoother and more deliberate than I’d known before. When I lapsed into passive mode by accident, I felt much more pitched about on the landings.

Main takeaway: When you’re in the right position, you can make a choice about the arc your bike takes

Did it transform me?

With a lot of repetition over the two days, and Katy’s talent for explaining, troubleshooting, encouraging and refining, all helped by her video recordings, I really started to notice a difference. 

It was rare for all the components of a technique to come together at the same time in my practice runs – they’d flicker in and out as I remembered one thing and forgot another. But as with my sessions with a swim coach years ago, I know they could become subconscious with enough practice. 

For me, one of the really neat things was actually starting to notice when I was doing something, and linking it to the effect it had. Like twisting the knee and hip out on berms, or pushing the bars out at just the right point before the front wheel went over a lip. It changed the techniques from a jumble of instructions to a set of causes and effects that I might actually remember.

As the photos and videos show, even when everything came together, I still look like an old man going to the shops – my elbow is not scraping the ground on berms, and my chest is not two inches from the cockpit on drops, even though I was sure both of those things were the case. But I feel like something has clicked. (And I’ve already set PBs on some of my local trails since I came home.)

Finally, this totally wasn’t meant to be a ‘three tricks to transform your riding’ piece. A coach like Katy will work out what you need. But they are things that I’m going to enjoy developing. When I book another session with Katy, we’ll maybe look at some of the other 50 tweaks I could do with making.

It was all looking so straightforward. GOAT racer, Nino Schurter, was dominating the World Cup and World Championships on his radically trail-bike-shaped, 2.4in tire, 120mm travel Scott Spark and every other brand started following suit. “Brilliant” the media and mere mortal riders cried. Bikes that are still superlight and efficient for smashing the climbs but can be ridden hard on real trails as well as the increasingly technical, ‘Enduro grade’ XCO courses. And while most testers like me saw the short travel, zero sag Specialized S-Works World Cup bike and the Trek Supercaliber as limited-use exceptions, the recent launch of the long, slack 120mm Specialized Epic 8 reassured us. It also re-affirmed why Specialized’s own racers, such as Viktor Koretsky, had been racing and winning on modified versions of the previous Epic Evo, rather than the steeper, shorter travel Epic. Yes, I know this is getting Epically complicated already, but hang in there as recent race bike launches like Yeti’s ASR confirmed that control was the new key to unlocking extra speed for most riders.

Today's launch of the Pinarello Dogma XC (already ridden to success by Tom Pidcock) and last weekend’s results – including a second place for Koretsky on the S-Works Epic World Cup rather than the new Epic 8 (which placed fifth), potentially prove that myself and the rest of the media don’t know what we’re talking about.

In fact, the ridiculously high rigid seatpost of Brazilian winner Christopher Blevins looked a lot like a deliberately defiant single finger to those who thought they understood where race bikes were going. If you can’t come back from a challenge and work out an answer in your head, you’re not much use as a tester (or as a racer) though. So here’s my take on why freaky can still be the fastest for physiological, practical and psychological reasons.

Tools for the job

Talking to Tom Pidcock’s Ineos Grenadiers coach, Kurt Bogaerts, at the Pinarello Dogma launch event, he reminded us that Pidcock spends the vast majority of his training and racing time – literally months compared to hours – on a road or cyclocross bike. That means the closer his mountain bike position is to his drop bar bike positioning, the easier it is for him to transition. Not just in terms of how his body produces power, but also how it expects the bike to react and how he needs to position his body to control that.

It also means a much lower risk of injury from dragging his body out of a very deep rut in terms of what it’s used to biomechanically. That applies to a lot of other top racers too, and you could probably see a high correlation between racers who mostly train and race off-road, like Nino Schurter, and more progressive race bike use.

Shredding in skinsuits

Most top racers aren’t just incredibly gifted in terms of lungs and legs, but also in their riding skills. I was properly scared with how sketchy the Dogma XC felt when riding it at the launch, but I’ve seen shots (there's one at the top of this article) of Pidcock shredding the prototype like a slopestyle bike within minutes of getting on it. Blevins clearly wasn’t letting a saddle up his arse and only 75mm of travel get in the way of his World Cup glory this weekend and Evie Richards rinsed the XCC short track field with warp speed descending on her 90mm travel Trek Supercaliber. And while the Brazilian course was relatively tame compared to some – hence Koretsky’s decision to use the World Cup not the Epic 8 – it still had some tasty sections to tackle. 

That kind of course does make a focused climb bike more appealing though. Because inverted stems, sky high fixed posts, steep, short geometry and brutally stiff wheels and frames undoubtedly wander less and transfer more power on a smooth drag race to the top. Don’t assume they weigh less though because that’s not always true.

The head game

Finally, there’s the psychological aspect to consider. A very light bike with a direct pedal feel from stiff frame, bars and wheels feels very fast just based on vibration sensations. You have to remember that while the descents sometimes only take seconds, the climbs go on for minutes. That’s minutes of genuine deep dive agony and soul searching too, so not a situation when you want to be thinking your bike is literally wasting your time. 

While some racers like Schurter meticulously measure performance gains over the whole race and are confident enough to stick by that data, others thrive on more immediate in the moment reactions and responses. Unsurprisingly, Bogaerts told me that includes Pidcock, who will often ride equipment and setups he knows are more fatiguing and slower in the long run, just to have a psychological and physical advantage in the split second attack moments that can make or break a race.

In other words, there’s definitely a lot more to what goes into race speed and race bike choice at the top level that you might not have thought about. It’ll certainly be interesting to see what bikes athletes choose to ride at more technical courses later in the season. But in the meantime, I’ll be keeping a more open mind about the bike decisions of those who ride with an open throttle.

It’s been a pretty miserable winter for riding, but a brilliant one for some particular woodland dwellers who love to hitch a ride on passing bikers or anything else for that matter. Yes folks, it’s tick season again and it’s likely to be a really bad one. So why does that matter and what should you do to keep yourself safe?

Bugs with bugs

If you’ve not met a tick before it’s basically a tiny brown/black beetle-looking thing about 2-5mm long. Get close and you’ll see it’s got a pointy head, external mouth parts and a rubbery bladder-like body. It hangs out with its pals on woodland leaves and long grass waiting for an animal to go past and then jumps [or 'quests' as it's somewhat perversely and officially called – Ed] aboard.

Sometimes it’ll stick its face into the first bit of exposed flesh it finds, but it’ll often crawl around looking for the warmest, darkest, best-hidden bits where it can plug in and feast undisturbed. And what it loves to fill that stretchy bladder with is blood and it’ll keep plugged in until it’s almost ready to pop. Then it’ll detach and fall back into the undergrowth to digest its meal before jumping onto the next blood-rich buffet that wanders past.

This sounds grim enough, but the big danger with ticks is that some of them (1 to 10 percent depending on area and season) can carry Lyme’s disease. This is a bacterial infection that can cause a spreading ‘bullseye’ rash, flu-like symptoms such as headaches and joint pain, or even stroke-like symptoms such as facial paralysis, loss of balance and feeling in hands and feet. Lyme’s disease can generally be treated successfully and swiftly with powerful antibiotics, but severe infections can leave you unwell for months with life-altering aftermaths in some rare cases. While it’s still very rare in the UK, the number of ticks carrying TBE – Tick Borne Encephalitis – is increasing significantly too and TBE is a much more serious and consequential infection.

The number of ticks in the UK, Europe and North America is increasing dramatically as a result of wetter, milder winters creating conditions that ticks thrive in. An increase in deer numbers and reduced sheep dipping by farmers could also be causal factors. 

The tick list

So how can you stop ticks getting stuck into your skin in the first place and what should you do if you find one already getting its vampire on? 

Physical protection is your best bet, so if you know you’ll be riding through woods and grassland – particularly if you’re sharing it with sheep and/or deer – then MTB pants and long sleeve jerseys are a smart idea. If you’re flashing the flesh, then coat yourself in insect repellent, re-applying regularly on long rides or if you’re likely to have wiped it off in wet undergrowth. Avoid sitting in grass or wandering off into thick undergrowth when you stop, and try and stay clear of long grass if you're bikepacking. Check yourself and your pals regularly when riding too, if you can spot a tick and brush it off before it gets stuck in that’s an obvious win. Check yourself very thoroughly when you’re getting showered/changed after a ride, paying particular attention to backs of knees, elbow cracks, armpits and your nethers for any uninvited guests.

If you find a tick, DO NOT try and pull it off. Squeezing its body will potentially inject dirty blood and bacteria back into your bloodstream. There’s a high chance the mouth parts will snap off too, increasing the infection risk. Don’t and burn it off or ‘drown it’ with vaseline either as that can make it vomit blood and bacteria back into you too. Instead, get a tick remover – there are all sorts of designs available from outdoor or pet stores – and very carefully use it to lever the pointy tick bits out of your skin. Once it’s out, make sure you despatch it promptly so it can’t escape to suck another day – sorry ticks.

If you’ve been bitten, keep a very close eye on the bite site. If you see a red rash forming – particularly a circular ring – that’s a possible sign of infection. Draw a line around the outer edge of the rash with a semi-permanent pen and keep checking to see if it spreads beyond that perimeter. If it does, or you start suffering any of the symptoms mentioned above, get yourself to a doctor, and be sure to mention you’ve had a tick bite. Keep vigilant for up to six weeks afterwards as Lyme’s disease can sometimes be a real slow developer.

Don’t forget to check dogs or other pets that go roaming about through grass either, as they can get infections from ticks or pass the ticks onto you in the discomfort of your own home. 

Race Face has launched two new compliance-focused handlebars, the new carbon-fiber Era and an updated alloy Turbine handlebar. The new handlebars are designed with Race Face's new GL Tune and use different flex profiles to offer a consistent feel for different widths, different rises, and different materials.

The new Era handlebar is Race Face's best MTB handlebar and the latest component to be added to Race Face's growing Era line-up which includes the Era carbon cranks and the recently released Era wheelset.

Race Face started to investigate the causes of arm pump, including strapping accelerometers to the rider's arms, and considered several different factors within the handlebar, geometry, handlebar physics, compliance, and natural frequency vibration damping.

Race Face concluded that vertical compliance has the biggest effect on rider comfort but is also the most controllable factor in a handlebar. It was also determined from the testing that 85 percent of the riders Race Face sampled all preferred a similar bar feel. This was developed into the GL Tune, GL standing for Goldilocks, and would form the basis for a range of six carbon and six alloy bars, all optimized to the GL Tune ride feel.

Race Face has focused on several areas of the handlebars to achieve its compliance sweet spot. The bars use the larger 35mm diameter clamp size which is structurally stiffer however the clamping area has been narrowed to 60mm so the rise and taper can start earlier. This narrowed the bar's diameter sooner and introduced more compliance.

The bar's construction also plays a big part in the handlebars ride feel, with each rise, width, and material combination being optimized for the GL Tune flex profile. For the carbon Era bar that involved creating bar-specific carbon layups, tuning the placement, angle, and quantity of nearly 100 pieces of unidirectional carbon. Although intricate, according to Race Face the internal butting used on the alloy Turbine was more difficult to tune as varying the wall thicknesses throughout the bar section involved small thickness increments down to tenths of a millimeter.

Race Face Era and Turbine handlebar specs and pricing

The Era and Turbine handlebars have 8 degrees back sweep and 5 degrees up sweep with 10mm, 20mm, and 40mm rise and 760mm, 780mm, and 800mm width options. The handlebars are trimmable by 40mm but Race Face recommends opting for the handlebar closest to the desired width as trimming more than 20mm off is noticeable for compliance 

The Era bars have a claimed weight of 220g while the Turbine's weigh in at 315g, both measured in the 800 x 40mm configuration. 

There are several color options available too. The Turbine bars come in black with either white or stealth grey graphics plus a range of anodized colors (yellow, orange, red, purple, and blue). All the Era bars come in black with grey, gold, orange, red, blue, or stealth graphics.

The Era Handlebar will retail for $169.99 USD / $215 CAD / £TBC and the Turbine Handlebar will cost $89.99 USD / $109 CAD / £TBC.

I’m old enough to remember when mountain bikes weren’t mountain bikes. Most kids round us called whatever bikes they’d stuck wide bars and knobbly tires on ‘scramblers’ – because that was the motorbike equivalent. Bigger boys and girls who smoked cigarettes bluffed their way into pubs and scared my flares into a flap called them Bombers. That was the name Raleigh chose for their first beach cruiser-style ‘bully bikes’. In France, sophisticated off-roaders, who probably smoked unfiltered cigarettes and drank wine, called their bikes “Velo Tout Terrain” and for a while “All Terrain Bike” was the go-to phrase for early MTBs in the UK too.

Over in America though, Gary Fisher and Charlie Kelly stuck the name “Mountain Bikes” above the tiny shop they set up to sell their custom ‘clunker’ cruiser bikes to local riders keen to join the ‘Repack Scene’. Just like Gary, the name was over the top for the riding most people did on these new “Fat Tire Flyers”, but it sounded exciting and adventurous. That meant Gary and Charlie were soon selling more bikes than Tom Ritchey could make for them. That inspired other people like Joe Breeze, Scot Nicol, Otis Guy, the Koski Bros, and others to start upscaling their existing clunker production and bigger brands, like Univega and Specialized, to start making ‘mountain bikes’ too. At which point Gary and Charlie realized the lawyer they’d hired to protect the name ‘Mountain Bikes’ had screwed up and soon their brilliant branding became the household name for an entirely new form of mountain biking.

Separate and sell

Even back then, mountain biking covered an incredible range of different ways to ride off-road, ranging from basically hiking on a bike in the local area, doing dumb tricks in the woods or wasteland, or tackling overland camping trips through the Colorado Rockies. Even racing came in loads of different flavors by the early '80s, either against cyclocross riders on closed circuits, timed downhills like Repack or long climb and descent race formats like Reseda to the sea. But while everything we do now – bikepacking, trials, XC, DH and enduro – was basically being done in essence back then, it was largely being done on the same bikes. Disciplines have been getting more and more extreme since the '90s though while bikes have evolved to suit different specialist uses and keep design and marketing departments busily justified in the process.

The continued evolution of what riders are doing and how bikes have changed to keep pace hasn’t stopped either. But like other aspects of mountain biking right now, I think we need a big shake-up and simplification to re-align category names and put the right people on the right bikes.

Racing is racing

The one that’s really out of whack now is XC/Cross-Country or XCO/Cross-Country Olympic following the rules of the Union Cycliste Internationale/UCI governing body. For a start, they’re not actually racing ‘across country’ anymore. They’re just going round a short, purpose-built trail several times. Those trails are now so technical that most average riders wouldn’t be able to ride them without at least thinking twice. While the first glimpse of the 2024 XCO World Championships course won’t be until this afternoon as part of the “Brazil MTB festival", I wouldn’t be surprised if it had the shoulder height drops, gap jumps and random boulder heaps that we’re regularly seeing on other race tracks. Features that definitely scream ‘trail’ to me and which all the latest race bikes are evolving to take in their stride while still being super efficient to pedal.

Interestingly, I'm currently sat on an embargo for a new suspension fork described as being specifically for Marathon (XCM), not XCO, which looks a lot like the same company's ‘gravel’ fork. You know, ‘gravel’, that bike category where you actually ride cross country from one place to another. And that’s increasingly being sold using images and footage of riders shredding rowdy singletrack image. Several companies are already using the phrase ‘flat bar gravel or aggro gravel’ for bikes which are basically XC hardtails too, because they find that sells a lot better than calling them an XC hardtail. Because the properly off-road part of the gravel riding scene sounds fun and friendly, whereas XC – and now gravel – racing has been the perverted preserve of slavering skin suit pain addicts for decades. Which is absolutely fine, and I love squeeing into a tight outfit to thrash myself into a frenzy as much as the next shaven-legged sticky grey gel swallower. But whether it’s on gravel or a purpose-built trail course why not just call that gravel racing, trail racing or BSM (Bicycle Sado Masochism), because that’s the primary point of the enterprise? That would leave cross-country free for people who are doing that on whatever bike they want from the genre-fluid gravel/marathon/XC range at whatever pace they enjoy. 

Trail shouldn't be a trial

In my mind, that would leave the ‘trail’ tag free for any bike or rider that was still fun to pedal at pace, but could comfortably handle anything most of us have the chops to attempt. Split it into lightweight, heavyweight, short travel, long travel, high pivot, whatever you want if you have to. But don’t call bikes that weigh 35 pounds (16kg) trail bikes and don’t call tires that weigh 3lb (1,350g) trail tires either. Because let’s be frank here, neither of those things are fun to pedal very far and promises of trail performance are going to be revealed as a serious trial of patience and suffering as soon as you try. 

Instead, let’s firm up that winch up, charge down category as enduro. It suits the whole going out and joining up the best black/double black/wild backcountry rated DH runs bits while chatting with your mates on the in-between bits (or in the uplift truck) vibe really well. We can leave bike park and downhill where they are too, because they work fine and if there’s a motor involved just stick that as an e-suffix on the front of whatever category it would be otherwise. Because at the point brands like Merida are calling a 26kg e-MTB “Lite”, then the whole SL/full-fat distinction is as ill-fitting as single-size ski pants.

But does it really matter?

In terms of us as riders who know what we like doing and just get on with doing it regardless of labels, the names attached to different subsects don’t matter at all. After all, there was nothing except basic common sense to stop my mate Craig riding old-school DH/enduro tracks on a Specialized Epic World Cup with basically road tires on last night. I’ve no problem with the packs of 30kg e-MTB riders merrily ploughing round local farm track loops on glue tires. If it makes you happy then adopt whatever mountain biking pronoun you want.

I do think it’s an issue for people coming into the sport though, particularly at the gravel/XC end of things. It’s the fundamental reason that lots of people are ending up – literally – deflated because the labeling told them that they should load up with bags and ride rocky bridleways on a rigid bike with skinny tires and drop bars. Imagine how much more fun they’d have if that sort of cross-country riding was actually called cross-country and the bikes had meaningful suspension, bigger tires, bars big enough to actually fit bags on? Oh and a riding position that means they can see all the nature they were ‘bathing’ in, not just glance sideways at it in terror as they rattle downhill on drop bars.

Oh and if you’re working in a marketing agency and wondering what to do with the phrase ‘downcountry’, isn’t that what Beyonce’s latest album is?

You may have been running your MTB handlebars set up wrong and have since checked out some of the best MTB handlebars, but what difference does changing the height of your bars make to how your bike rides and feels?

There is a huge range of variables when it comes to bars and how you set them up, with a bewildering range of widths, sweeps, and heights. That got me wondering how much difference opting for bars with a different rise would make to how my bike feels on the trail.

Low, medium and high rises

To see if changing the bar height made a discernible difference to my regular ride, I've decided to use the Odub bar from DMR, which is similar to the no-nonsense DMR Wingbar 4 we have tested previously but with spiral internal butting to increase the strength without adding much weight. It's a bar I've used before, and I have found the 800mm stock width with 5-degree upsweep and 8-degree backsweep a good fit for me on my Focus Jam 8.9 trail bike, and handily, the Odub comes in three different heights of 20mm, 35mm, and a high rise 50mm version. 

The height or rise refers to the amount of height increase from the center of the stem. So, a flat bar would have zero rise, and a 20mm bar would rise by 20mm from the center of the bar to the grips.

Bar rise vs spacers

You may be thinking that simply using more spacers under your stem gives the same result as changing your handlebar to one with more rise. Surely, adding 20mm gives the same result as using a 20mm riser bar? Well, unfortunately, it’s not quite as simple as that.

Your steerer tube is at an angle which means the stem moves towards you the higher it gets as you add spacers. For example, on a bike with a 65-degree head angle, for every 10mm of spacer added, the stem moves 9.06mm upwards but also 4.22mm closer to you. However, a handlebar with a 20mm rise is exactly 20mm higher than one with zero rise and of course, swapping bars doesn’t affect the stem position.

How I measured different setups

A useful measurement when comparing bar heights is the saddle-to-handlebar drop – which is the difference in height between the tip of your saddle (at it’s highest riding position) and the handlebar grips. It gives a good point to test when comparing bike setups, but it can be difficult to measure accurately in the real world. 

As I'm comparing different bar heights on the same bike setup, I will use the simpler and easier for the home mechanic method of measuring the differences by taking a fixed measurement from the floor to the center of the grip.

I thought it might be interesting to measure the weight on the front wheel to see if the changes made any difference to the force my body position puts on the front end. I set up a simple test by sitting on the saddle in the raised position and measuring the weight using some bathroom scales to see if there were any differences in force put on the front wheel. Though the fully raised saddle position isn't how I would usually attack a technical section, my far-from-scientific test might give some numbers and context to subjective differences on the trail.

What works for the pros?

There are no strict rules for bar heights, though there are a few trends and general consensus on a few ideas. Your fit or position on a bike is far more dynamic on a mountain bike than it would be on a road or gravel model (where you stay seated for most of the time), so it stands to reason your stance should be different, too. Your suspension also plays a big part in how your bike interacts with you, so that also needs to be taken into account.

I spoke to Olly Wilkins, Focus and DMR pro rider and designer of the Odub handlebar, and asked him what rise he goes for and if he always uses the same height every time. He answered. “The three rise options cover everything I need. The high rise 50mm works perfectly on my dirt jump bike, the 35mm rise on my everyday 150mm trail bike, and the 20mm I use on my e-MTB.” 

So, what's the reasoning behind using different heights? Let's explore why a different position is used for different types of riding.

Different heights for different disciplines

XC racers and riders often go for a low-rise or flat bar. This gives a lower position that helps keep the front wheel weighted on steep climbs and makes it feel more direct in corners. This also benefits those on an e-MTB who love to attack technical uphills. Some shorter riders even go for a bar with a negative rise as a 29er front wheel raises the front end considerably compared to older 26-inch designs, can feel too tall, and makes it difficult for some riders to weigh the front end sufficiently.

A higher-rise bar puts you in a more trail-friendly position, with a more relaxed position with your head up and better centralization of your weight on the bike. This helps on steeper trails by moving your weight back and making it easier to look further up the trail, enhancing your ability to see and react to obstacles.

The low-rise bar

I fitted the 20mm rise handlebar first. I had taken a Race Face 35mm riser bar off, so the change of bars lowered the position of my ODI Reflex grips by 10mm to 1,045mm – from the floor to the center of the end of the handlebar grip. On my simple scale setup, the reading from the front end was 32.4kg which gives me a benchmark to compare the other setups too. Though 10mm lower isn't much in the grand scheme of things, it did make a surprising difference in how the bike felt. The lower position felt more poised and sharpened up the steering response, which was noticeable when making changes in direction. This could be a placebo or a natural bias, as I prefer riding bikes towards the XC end of the spectrum, but it was still surprising given the marginal change in only one parameter.

The middle and high-rise options

As my original bars had 35mm of rise, there was no difference from my original setup when fitting the 35mm Obub handlebars. The Odub model is 35g lighter than the Race Face bar I removed, but that's not really enough of a difference to make it noticeable on the trail for me.

The 50mm rise option though, made a marked change to not only my position on the bike but also how the bike felt. The 20mm increase in bar height measured 1,075 mm from the floor and came in at 31.8kg on the scales, a reduction of 600g. Though not a true scientific test, the small difference does match up with the common perception of a higher front end, giving you less pressure or weight over the front wheel.

The resulting slower handling and more upright riding position made my Focus Jam test bike feel more playful. The slowed handling made it feel more capable on steep technical sections. The calmer feel increased front end predictability, and having my body weight and center of gravity slightly further back also made lifting the front wheel for manuals or pre-jumping sections easier. Though only 30mm higher, I felt much less likely to have an over-the-bar moment and found it easier to keep my weight behind the front axle on really testing terrain. It also felt less of a stretch to the bars, giving me a more pronounced bend in my elbows, which felt like it gave me a stronger position to muscle the bike in and out of corners.

The verdict

So, does changing the bar height make any difference to how a bike rides? Yes, it does, and getting the right bar rise for you will make a significant positive difference to how your bike feels. My trail bike is fun but not hugely progressive, and it surprised me just how much difference the bar height made to how the bike felt in certain situations.

If you want to make your trail bike feel a bit sharper or you enjoy attacking technical climbs, a lower bar would be a good idea. If you want to increase your bike's smile-per-mile value and fancy yourself as the next Olly Wilkins or Josh Bryceland, then a high-rise bar could be just the ticket. It won’t mean you'll be jibbing and schralping straight away though, but it will definitely give your bike a more playful feel. Depending on which handlebar model you choose, switching bar heights is a cost-effective and easy to fit change that provides tangible real-world benefits.